Rebuild begins!! 135BHP hopefully!!

Discussion in '8-valve' started by Alpenweiss2, Mar 9, 2010.

  1. Alpenweiss2 Forum Member

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    Hi Mike

    I hadn't thought about that. My key bunch isn't over large!!:lol:Is there any way to check the switch? I am down in Southampton next week for a family wedding so I am going to pop my car into Wagenwheels (VW Golf Mk1/2 specialist) and get them to check out a couple of issues.

    Cheers Alpenweiss2:)
     
  2. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    Not easily, if it's intermittent. If it starts stuttering, see what the dash is doing, and if any other electrical stuff cuts out. It would be worth just going round and making sure the battery connections, then the mail gearbox earth strap are clean and tight. Then move onto the ECU connection TCI Switch, and hall sender plug.
     
  3. Alpenweiss2 Forum Member

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    Sorted hopefully!!!

    Hi Mike

    I did what you suggested and checked loads of connections. Unbelievably the black rubber pin connector going to the front of the ECU was not on correctly (in fact it was hanging half off), so occassionally the connection was getting broken...causing the intermittant misfires I assume!

    Since pushing it on properly, I have had no further issues...so fingers crossed that has solved it!

    Cheers Paul
     
  4. drunkenalan Paid Member Paid Member

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    i had something similar many years ago i spent a fortune replacing things!!
     
  5. Alpenweiss2 Forum Member

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    Did it again...Arrrghhh!!

    Whilst down in Southampton last week my car performed faultlessly apart from during a short journey when the misfire/stutter symptom happened on a couple of second long occasions!![:s]

    Think I will follow Mike H's advice and replace the ignition switch. It is so intermittant...didn't happen once during the 300 mile drive home..I don't think it is urgent. Maybe the switch in the column is just starting to break down?

    Alpenweiss2:)
     
  6. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    Well, it's a pain of a job, so don't take it on unless the problem gets worse, I'd say.
     
  7. nealey Forum Junkie

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    I didnt think it was too bad when i did mine, i even talked i.a.n.b through it over the phone when he did his
     
  8. Alpenweiss2 Forum Member

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    Hi Nealey

    How straightforward is this job?

    I was thinking of doing it myself? Is it covered in the Haynes?

    Cheers Alpenweiss2
     
  9. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    Depends if you can get the shear bolts out easily (impact gun and bolt grippers helps) and if the collar comes off the end of the column. or you can do it the old fashioned way by sawing a slot in the bolts and using a screwdriver.

    I generally advocate more diagnosis before changing bits 'in case' it's the problem.
     
  10. nealey Forum Junkie

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    Shear bolts? I didnt remove any of them when i did mine!

    Alpenweiss it is mostly covered in the haynes, the only bit that you will get stuck on is when it says to remove the collar by prying it off with a screwdriver

    Instead of doing that, wind the steering wheel nut back on, place a bit of wood over the column and whack the wood with a hammer and it should shock the collar off.
     
  11. Alpenweiss2 Forum Member

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    Did I make the wrong decision???

    Well it's now about 7 months now since my full engine rebuild and it's now four months since the rebuilt engine was properly set up on Stealth's rolling road. All of the little niggles have been ironed out (including the mystery misfire which has dissapeared since an uprated alternator was fitted??).

    The car has been running fine and the car is now close to 192,000 miles (so nearly 4000miles on the new engine).

    However the engine does seem to use a bit of oil and I expected that it wouldn't?? The bottom end is reconditioned and the head has new valve stem guides and seals.

    I do enjoy driving the car, however it is very different in character to my girlfriends standard gti 8 valve. Her car is really quick off the mark, but runs out of power higher up the rev range.

    My car which was recorded with 132BHP on Stealth's rollers, feels a little slow to pick up until the revs go past 4000rpm and then it really seems a fair bit quicker than hers. What I don't like about my car is that if the revs drop to about 1500-2000rpm at low speeds say in second or third gear, then the pick up in speed feels a little unresponsive until you floor it?

    It's hard to explain really, but sometimes particularly on steep hills, it does feel like the car can 'bog down' at low revs??

    The title of my post...'Did I make the wrong decision??? basically relates to my choice to use a reconditioned 1.8 litre bottom end. I think keeping the car original 'ish' was the thought behind this decision. However I feel that my car would now be a better drive, particularly below 4000rpm, if I had opted for a 2 litre bottom end.

    Am I correct in this assumption and did I make the wrong decision?

    Also if I wanted to swap to a 2 litre bottom end somewhere down the line to gain some extra torque...how much would this cost me...if a garage did the work?

    Cheers Alpenweiss2 :)
     
  12. mr hillclimber Club GTI Supporter and Sponsor

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    You should have similar low end to a std 1800, if I remember rightly you have a GS2H?

    Ever done a compression test?

    I've seen 1800's with 280+ degree cams make std low end power, so a 270 degree cam should be no worse than std.

    You dont need a 2ltr to make a good road (or comp) engine, so no, you did'nt make the wrong call... maybe there is a comp ratio issue... but I think we covered that.
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2010
  13. m1keh Forum Member

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    Probably the extra go up top makes you think that it's slower low down.
     
  14. Alpenweiss2 Forum Member

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    Hello Mr Hillclimber...not sure what you mean by 'comp ratio'?

    I've got the dyno graphs from Stealth, so I think I will scan them in and post them up. I haven't had a compression test done, because surely a reconditioned engine would have perfect compression?

    Cheers Alpenweiss2
     
  15. mr hillclimber Club GTI Supporter and Sponsor

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    If the compression ratio is too low for the cam used, the low end power can be reduced over std. A basic compression test will show a given figure, and a "guide" to where the c.r is.... but yes, the basic compression should show it's healthy.
     
  16. Alpenweiss2 Forum Member

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    Dyno plots from Stealth RR session in July!

    As promised here are the scanned in dyno plots from my visit to Stealth in July. I did take the car to a more local rolling road (A B Garage near Chester) before taking it to Stealth and they set it up originally. I came away from stealth with just a smidge under 132BHP!

    Here are the plots:-

    1st one is BHP Before/After

    2nd one is torque Before/After

    3rd one is notes from the session.

    What do all you engine tuning experts think?

    Cheers Alpenweiss2 :)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. G60KG

    G60KG Forum Member

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    I did two by removing the column from the universal joint so the steering wheel complete with igntion unit comes off. you can get to the grub screw holding the ign switch in with a small jewellers screwdriver. Took around half hour to do. there is a guide on vortex I think thats where I got it from.

    Here is a link same for mk2
    http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/VW/MKIII/VWVortex.com_VW_MKIII_Ignition_Replacement_DIY.pdf
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2010
  18. Alpenweiss2 Forum Member

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    Hi there G60KG...I did buy a replacement switch, but ever since I swapped over my old alternator for a virtually new 90 amp uprated version, this has solved the problem completely. At least I have a spare, if ever I need one!!:lol:

    What did you make of the dyno graphs?

    Cheers Alpenweiss2
     
  19. G60KG

    G60KG Forum Member

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    I needed a new alternator on mine too. I have to admit I am not very good at understanding dyno graphs and haven't followed this thread too closely. so you can explain it to me in laymans terms, What exactly have you done to your engine and how much increase in bhp and torque have you gained over a standard PB? I have never had mine on a dyno and still have the cam to fit so no idea what it is pushing but its great fun.
     
  20. Alpenweiss2 Forum Member

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    Return of the dreaded misfire/stutter???

    It is nearly a year since my full engine rebuild and despite some initial teething problems and a variety of issues, the car has been running great, especially since the set up at Stealth.

    However, I mentioned earlier in the rebuild thread, that the engine was suffering from an annoying and worrying occassional misfire/stutter of the engine. I fitted a new alternator towards the end of last year and this seemed to solve the problem completely.

    Well just today the problem has reappeared after an absence of several months!![:x]

    It feels like the engine is either misfiring or momentarily cutting out?? When it happens it can be quite slight or often a lot more jerky and noticeable??

    I am really puzzled? It happened on about four or five separate occasions today?

    When it was happening a few months ago, Mike H suggested it might be a faulty ignition switch in the key barrel? I did buy one at the time but never had it fitted because the issue went away after fitting a new alternator.

    Any ideas?

    Alpenweiss2[:^(]
     

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