Removing Boot Lock!!

Discussion in 'Mk2' started by Richard Mk2, Jun 4, 2010.

  1. Richard Mk2

    Richard Mk2 Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2007
    Likes Received:
    511
    Location:
    London / Bucks
    My rear boot lock on my Mk2 has seized up, and i cant seem to lock it.
    I have a new one to replace it, but how hard are they to remove ?

    The Haynes manual doesn't really explain to much detail, but im sure someone must have previously replaced there's in the past.

    Also, is the rear wiper mechanism easy to remove ?

    Any advice / tips would be great!

    Cheers :thumbup:
     
  2. Dave

    Dave *Very Smart* Pedantic Old Fart Paid Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2007
    Likes Received:
    473
    Location:
    Sligo, Eire
    Not really hard at all.

    Bloody typical of Haynes.

    Not too bad.

    Honestly. Just flip the plastic studs out of the inside panel, and have a look.

    Can't actually remember everything about the times that I've done this job. But, it's not that difficult!

    Go on. Give it a go.
     
  3. Richard Mk2

    Richard Mk2 Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2007
    Likes Received:
    511
    Location:
    London / Bucks
    Yeah will do mate :thumbup:

    I suppose having a good look at how its all held in will put me on the right track.
     
  4. Dave

    Dave *Very Smart* Pedantic Old Fart Paid Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2007
    Likes Received:
    473
    Location:
    Sligo, Eire
    If there is anything that specifically worries you. Post a picture, and I'll try and help.
     
  5. StuMc

    StuMc Moderator and Regional Host - Manchester Moderator

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2004
    Likes Received:
    268
    Location:
    50? 20` 47 N - 06? 57` 57 E
    Boot lock is simply clipped into the hole in the tailgate, so first remove the plinth/surround, then from inside squeeze the clips together and push it up and out.
     
  6. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2003
    Likes Received:
    3,298
    Location:
    Bracknell
    there are 2 clips on the inside of the tailgate that hold the button in, pop these inwards and it pulls out. there is a plastic clip that holts the lock release rod to the button, carefully pop this off.

    if it has central locking, you need to unscrew the actuator from the car then rotate it 90 degrees to pop it off the actuating rod. then the boot lock comes out, its fiddly due to the rod but trust me it will come out.

    then its just 1 screw holding the lock to the button. if its a CL lock there is a small ball bearing and spring, dont loose this!
     
  7. The db

    The db Forum Junkie

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2006
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    MK & High Wycombe
    Rear wiper mechanism is a piece of p*ss. The wiper arm itself just comes off with a spanner (or ratchet) - make sure you keep all the washers etc. The motor is located inside the boot lid behind the plastic cover - just like the key lock bit. I can't remember how many bolts it is as been about 3 years since I changed one on a mk2 - but seem to recall that after removing wiper arm you just undo a few bolts and out it drops.
     
  8. Richard Mk2

    Richard Mk2 Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2007
    Likes Received:
    511
    Location:
    London / Bucks
    Thanks for all the help above guys. Much appreciated.

    Will give it a go over the weekend.

    Cheers :thumbup:
     
  9. Texaroo New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2007
    Likes Received:
    0
    Rear hatch cylinder lock removal

    Hi, can I leave the lock button assembly in place and just remove countersunk screw on back of lock cylinder and remove cylinder without disconnecting any central locking rods. I have removed this screw and pushed on end of cylinder with key inserted but it's not budging. Problem is cannot rotate lock in manual mode i.e. Works ok with central locking but can't turn key to unlock manually.
     
  10. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2003
    Likes Received:
    3,298
    Location:
    Bracknell
    it should come out like that yes, but by the sounds of it yours is totally seized up so you may have no choice but to take the button off to work on it on the bench. note cl boot locks have a tiny ball bearign and spring which does the 3 'clicks' in each key position so you may have lost that once the end of the lock was removed :(
     
  11. Texaroo New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2007
    Likes Received:
    0
    Yeah looked out for ball and spring but missing, then remembered when had rear hatch sprayed they took look off so explains why missing, will have to find replacement. Thanks for replying mate, will let you know how goes, have just soaked it with special WD penetrant which should be better than WD40.
     
  12. Dub Steppin New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2019
    Likes Received:
    1
    First up: New poster, long time dub affliction...

    Sorry to bump an ancient thread... My 8V GTI boot lock was seized in the locked position and, upon trying to free it, I snapped the lug that the boot catch rod attaches to. On top of this, the cover that's meant to hinge in to allow the key into the barrel was seized too. I have fitted a new CL boot lock, following the advice on this thread. Upon testing it, the rod sometimes slides right through the plastic t bar piece that hits the "horseshoe" to enable the boot to open and disconnects. I cleaned up the rod as it was corroded, do I just need to rough it up/perhaps apply some sticky gunk to the rod so that it doesn't slide thru the t-bar/slider? Also, I noticed on taking the old one apart that there's a short rod, about 1 inch that sat in the LH (as you look at it with boot open facing the front) side eyelet. Is the short bar meant to be tight and is it designed to sit a certain distance into the plane where the t-bar slides?

    I broke the wee clip that attaches the boot catch rod so got a new one ordered, but in the meantime would like to get the CL slider working how it's supposed to. I'm wondering if I've maybe cleaned the actuator rod up too much. The lock can be removed with the actuator rod attached (I know this as I had to remove it that way as it was seized on) I'm thinking instead of glue if I were to slightly melt the plastic t-bar eyelet onto the rod would that make it secure?

    The good thing was when i got the old lock onto a bench I was able to push open the flap/hinge with a screwdriver and then use my original key (like I used to be able to), so then I re-coded the aftermarket lock with the correct tumblers for my main key. Basically, if I can get the slider sliding how/where it's supposed to, this job is a serious win. Just hoping someone can advise on the "little rod" position and give best advice on how I get the rod to stay attached to the slider, and it not go through it. I reckon I've taken too much material off that part myself, forgetting at first ot needs to be tight there but smooth through the eyelet.
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2019
  13. Dub Steppin New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2019
    Likes Received:
    1
    Panic over, guys. Basically superglued the end of the rod to the slider and didnt bother with the little short pin. put a nice bit of grease on the slider and on part of rod & little clip near the vac pump and it's working a treat. Postie should be here any day with my clip then my boot will be fully functional with fob and with key at last, probably for the first time in ten years. YAS!
     
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2003
    Likes Received:
    3,298
    Location:
    Bracknell
    I did mean to reply to this with pictures but didn't get round to digging out my spare lock for.pics.

    The short rod sounds like the cl position detent? If so it has 2 little.grooves cut into it, then there's a little ball bearing in the plastic T shaped piece which clicks into it in both positions to provide a positive lock when the rod goes to each position. I guess it may help stop the rod moving.too far?

    On the plastic T rod you'll notice a little square plastic piece pushed into it. If you lever that out the spring and ball I mention will come out, or if the short rod is pulled out the spring and ball will probably go missing

    The original boot.lock also has a little ball bearing and spring behind the metal lock finger on the end of the barrel, easy to loose and extremely frustrating to refit :lol: this gives you a nice click for the 3 lock positions (interestingly, the later NOS vw lock button I got doesn't have this any more!)
     
  15. Dub Steppin New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2019
    Likes Received:
    1
    Nah it's not that, it's just a mostly straight pin with a tapered end. I know what you're on about, the metal part that the plastic T slider locates into, located parallel with actuator rod. I think it must just be to stop the rod moving too far as you say, or to keep it smooth, unless it's been connected to actuator rod and broken off at some point. My actuator rod end has like a much lower dia than the rest of it, for about 1-2mm length, almost as if something's missing. It works good though and click in both positions on the grooves and ball bearing you mention. I could defo use the mystery short rod as a safety stopper by glueing into the eyelet on left but dunno if it's necessary or the right thing to do.

    As for the lock, yeah I was aware of the CL position ball bearing and spring because of this thread or one similar, so I didn't lose original, or the new ones when I re-coded the aftermarket lock barrel to fit my existing key, even though it's RCL, I still want the original feel of that. I realised after I'd recoded the lock and fitted to car I'd left out two springs for the tumblers so it operates but not quite as smoothly as it should, so I'll be taking the barrel out to redo it properly, one more chance to lose the spring and bb I guess :lol:
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2019
  16. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2003
    Likes Received:
    3,298
    Location:
    Bracknell
    Ah is it the end of the lock rod? The rod has a groove cut into it which locks into the T shaped piece. If corrosion gets in the rod end can shear off at the groove which would explain everything, no longer fitting secure and having a random short bit of rod left over...
     
  17. Dub Steppin New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2019
    Likes Received:
    1
    Must be that yeah. It works fine as it is. I could maybe even try glue the end into the t piece, but so far it's working every time after a lot of testing so all I need now is this clip insert for the actual latch and all good
     
  18. Dub Steppin New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2019
    Likes Received:
    1
    Glorious update: The clip arrived about an hour after I replied above... I popped it on and now have a fully operational boot lock with fob and with key. Incredible scenes!! Only thing is I cant seem to generate enough pressing power in my fingers to fully pop the clip over the boot release rod. I'm thinking of using pliers, one jaw on the eyelet attached to the boot button and the other on the rod, to fully pop it on, but am shit scared of snapping it, so for now it's in almost fully but works fine. Should I just man up and squeeze it in properly and if I snap it just part with another £2odds? In saying that, it's actually the eyelet I'm scared of breaking mostly, seeing how easily the original snapped when I tried to pop off the original boot rod clip lol

    Thanks for the tips on this thread @rubjonny and for all the other info you've shared here and elsewhere. Next week I'm going to replace water pump, timing belt, aux belt, alternator (maybe - I have an almost new spare one but not sure to leave it for now or not), thermostat & housing and properly setup my digi as per your excellent how-to guide :-D
     
  19. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2003
    Likes Received:
    3,298
    Location:
    Bracknell
    sounds a little too tight to me, is it a new genuine part or pattern? I've never had any trouble fitting and removing these things by hand but then again I've never messed with a new genuine part, mine have all been 20+ years old :lol:
     
  20. Dub Steppin New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2019
    Likes Received:
    1
    I think
    Seller on ebay said it was genuine. Suspect it may be a pattern but no way to tell really, yeah it feels a bit tight for my liking too. It was this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Genuine-VW...ip8uwuafVE_iv2kZPN9qdVIQxP8el2LAaAi_hEALw_wcB

    It may be that the near-freezing temperatures outside when I fitted it was a factor. Although I warmed the clip up on the radiator before going out, wary of a snappage. This might sound stupid question but have I perhaps fitted it incorrectly? IE do you fit the clip to rod and push into hole or fit clip in hole then push rod into that? Nothing is ever easy for me. Think I'm jinxed (lol?) You make a good point there - perhaps it's just the newness factor and I need to grow a set and squeeze it harder. Anyway, I'm off out to try it soon, had my daughter since Sat night so no mk2 fun has been had
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice