Toyotec's How to install an ABF engine in your Mk2 Golf. Revisit of KJet car 180610

Discussion in '16-valve' started by Toyotec, Jul 4, 2007.

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  1. altern8 Forum Junkie

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    great thread
     
  2. nbennetta New Member

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    Is it best to use a mk3 golf or Seat Ibiza gti for an ABF conversion?

    I am planning on a switch into an 8v digifant GTi and using the original box.

    will the ABF fit straight onto my 8v box? do I have to use anything else? drive shafts?

    I understand the wring is different, but is this a simple matter of using the loom from the donor car?

    Any help appreciated.
     
  3. cdem New Member

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    I have recently done this conversion however ive come across a problem, dont know if anybody else has encountered this. The belt for the PAS started to smoke when the engine was running. Upon close inspection it looks like the pulley on the crank doesn't line up with the other 2 pulleys the belt goes around, it's a few mm out. Ive kept all the kjet stuff and swapped all abf pulleys for the kr ones so basically just swapped the head and block. Has anybody else had this problem or know how to resolve it??

    Thanks
     
  4. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    that should be fine, sounds like something isnt quite bolted flush or you have a bent pulley somewhere
     
  5. cdem New Member

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    Ok ill recheck what ive done :) Thanks!
     
  6. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    if you still have the abf alternator & pas setup I would swap it all back on, though the abf alternator tensioner hits the kr flange if you're on k-jet. in that case you can fit early mk3 non-ac alternator and bracket which sits lower down and clears nicely. the abf pas setup will still fit :)
    oh and if the abf had aircon you need a non-ac mk3 1.8-2.0 waterpump pulley too
     
  7. cdem New Member

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    Right so you recommend using the MK3 set up, because the ABF had air con and I am running the KJET stuff I need the early alternator and bracket and also the water pump pulley...there's more to this than I first thought!! Haha.

    I think that I will check for bent pulleys first and ensure they are all tightened correctly before opting for swapping to the MK3 bits :)

    Thanks for your help :)
     
  8. cdem New Member

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    rubjonny just a quick question, are the MK3 alternator's the same (air con and non air con)? Is it just the bracket which is different? Would I be able to use the alternator from an air con ABF on a non air con bracket?
     
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yes and no, you have 2 alternator setups on the mk3! early non-a/c alternator has a big spring under it, and a different bracket. howvever later on in mk3 production this one was dropped and the same setup for both a/c and non-a/c was used. the rest of the pulley,s pas setup etc parts are all the same regardless of age and a/c apart from waterpump pulley.

    so basically the answer is yes you can use a non-a/c alternator, if its a later one with the separate tensioner wheel its a direct swap. If you want to fit an early non-a/c alternator you'll need the bracket and spring as well :)

    HTH!
     
  10. afbiker02

    afbiker02 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Can anyone tell me what belt I need to use on my ABF if I'm not using PAS?
     
  11. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the same alternator belt is used, you just bin off all the pas parts as it runs off its own belt. if you had an a/c block then swap the waterpump pulley for non-a/c ribbed belt :)
     
  12. MK1-Tron

    MK1-Tron Forum Member

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    Sorry if I have missed it but if using all KR pulleys / ancillaries (no AC or PAS) do you need to use an ABF cam belt due to the extra height of the block?
     
  13. Admin Guest

    Yes, if you have an ABF you must use an ABF cam belt due to the block height.
     
    MK1-Tron likes this.
  14. mk216vrick Forum Member

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    Toyotec, did this ever happen?! (the turbocharge one) i have read TShirtuk write up lots. just wondered if you had done one.

    Thanks
     
  15. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    Tshirt2k's MK 3 ABF Turbo was loosely based on the WOLF R 16vT concept which is in my signature.
     
  16. neo badness Paid Member Paid Member

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    Great info. In process of swapping my kr in favour of abf on 3.2 OEM management with a rubjonny loom.

    Couple of questions:-

    Fitting loom/plugs through bulkhead to back of fuse box where do they plug in? Is it matching the colour of wires?
    Might be daft but plugs have a wee peg on them presumably to stop accidental disconnection, is there a nack to getting them in back of fuse box?

    Lighting loom stays for mk2, but engine loom disconnet and unplug from back of fuse box?

    Also my diagnostics port loom appears to be missing, will I be able to add that later?

    Connecting kr fuel lines to ABF is it a case of trimming the kr ones and pushing rubber hoses over and securing?

    Hopefully pull engine out tomorrow so any help gratefully recieved.
     
  17. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    The connectors for the fuse box can only be plugged in one way.
    Drop the fusebox from its holder, pull the fusebox locking slide, connect G and H connectors and another supplied with your loom, push the locking slide and that is it.

    Diagnostics can be added later, wit the K line piggybacked off the immo box.
    There are connectors that convert the CIS supply and return fittings to barbed hose fittings for EFI. I got mine from Think Automotive
     
  18. neo badness Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks, brilliant.
    I have a pirtek 2mins down the road so will go to them in first instance. If they can't help I'll order off suggested site.

    I've disconnected engine this morning and
    I have split gearbox from engine. Is it possible to remove engine without gearbox or do I need to drop both? Seems like flywheel clutch are bolted to block. I may have misunderstood but thought I could get engine out without disturbing gear linkages etc.
     
  19. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    what i did was chop the rubber/plastic off the 2 main fuel hoses to the metering head, this leaves you with a couple of barbed fittings :)

    you may have missed the last gearbox bolt,m its round the back driver side and tucked up near the driveshaft. easy to miss! but tbh, I think you'll find it easier to pull the engine and gearbox out together as its quite tricky to leave the box in the car. it is possible though :)
     
  20. neo badness Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks very much for the prompt and knowledgeable replies.
    RJ, that's a good solution and in keeping with the budget build ethos!
    Got all the bolts as I have a two finger gap between engine and box. Just width clutch holding it in place.
    Thinking I'm going to have to drop gearbox to get sufficient space.
    Didn't want to get involved with splitting driveshafts or popping hubs is all.
     

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