Toyotec's how to integrate Megasquirt to your 20vT engine 140911

Hi, thanks for this guide and I've done everything bar the crank sensor with it, but I'm confused with that. I have an early AGU with this plug pictured above :



Which is the live, ground and signal? I can't see which wire each corresponds to on the plug it goes into for the crank sensor even after opening up the outer insulation and none of the wire colours off the crank sensor match any given above in the diagrams.

I know this will be a really easy answer for some of you guys here but it's properly confusing for me, so if anyone could let me know I'd really, really appreciate it. Cheers

 

Anybody? Trying to be patient and I've kept looking elsewhere but I just can't get my head around it

I'm an in date paid up member with another account that I can't get into if that makes a difference to anyone...

 

Going by my diagram number 1= cable shielding sensor earth. Number 2= sensor signal. Number 3= signal earth. Hope this is of help to you

 

Post 2 says "use pins 2 and 3" for AUQ, AUM and BAM engines that ran a Bosch ME7 controller.

There is no 'live' as the G28 sensor generates an AC voltage being a Variable Reluctance Sensor..

 

None of the colours in the diagram match those in the pic so I thought if was referring to the wires straight off the sensor which I wasn't clear on despite reading post 2 numerous times. Thinking about it logically now I'm not panicking I can see now it would make no difference as it's still going to the same pins on the plug

As said I'm sure it's plenty easy for you guys but I'm not used to this stuff and just didn't get it, so many thanks for clearing that up for me though and I know it was a 'me' problem and the guide's spot on. Much appreciated and that's the loom finished

 

Glad I can help.

 

Thanks for the chat Eddie and tip on the pinout!

 

No problem G.

 

Excellent write up!. Best thing I did with my 16vG60 conversion was fit the Megasquirt.

Nice to see you've taken the time and effort to post up this thread :-).

 

You are welcome.
Back in the day, these threads were written and posted after having many people as the question.
The ABF and the 20v were the most popular applications to fit a megasquirt.
Writing these thread also now saves having to explain on the phone over and over again, instead just point them here

 

Hi can someone please confirm what resistor i need for the ignition? you say 330 ohm but there are loads of these on the RS components website and they look different. whats thw wattage etc?

Also i have read that the IGBT to use is this one, as the one on this thread are discontinued.
IGBT = http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/8078751/

 

ok i believe for a 330 resistor its 0.25W

and for AUM engine i need to use this setup:
http://www.msextra.com/doc/general/sparkout-v30.html

 

Very usfull thread!!!

One question tough regarding the idle control..it is mentioned for the MS2 applications to connect the stepper motor output to pin 1&2,

Do you mean the Fidle with pwm mod or stepper motor outputs directly from the ms2?

Thank's

Eran.

 

Great thread Toyotec. Can I ask what you do with the sump level/oil temp sender when running Megasquirt? My engine is in a kit car with Racetec gauges. I am keen to keep the oil temp and am wondering if I can re-purpose the OEM sender. I haven't a clue about compatibility or calibration though. If they are not compatible do you have a recommendation for where to plumb in a sender? My engine has the oil/water heat exchanger with oil feed to the turbo. As I need to replace the turbo oil feed pipe due to turbo relocation I was considering fitting a T-connector in-line. Maybe this is a dumb idea - please tell me if you think it is!

 

For the sump/level sensor, sump level is not used with older converted vehicles.
Oil temp sensor is not used also.

Oil temp measurement is via a VDO/Stack or other branded system.

 

Where best to plumb in the sender? Tee off from the turbo oil feed or from the oil pressure switch port?

P

 

A tee from the oil switch into a sender.

Or a two pin sender with the oil switch.

 

On my AUQs there was a spare M10 hole on the oil filter housing which would fit a standard VDO sender.

 

This is my filter housing. You can see the oil pressure switch. Is the flat area between the pressure switch and the turbo feed banjo bolt where your second port is located? If so then I should be able to drill and tap there.

 

The oil switch is M10x1. If you use a VDO 0-5bar gauge with a sender using a N/C pin and a pressure in bar pin, you can delete the factory switch.

Sender you need is below.