Toyotec's how to make your MK3 16v breathe on a budget. Part 2 added 14-12-09

What was the part number of the Jenvey horn you used?
I'd never considered a Jenvey horn...I was trawling the car hi-fi shops for subwoofer ports when I was doing mine!

 

Will try to find the paper work and will post up the part number. Had a word with Ed about trying out a few more tests next month, samco intake pipe, a 8+ year old old skool AMD chip, and a air temp mod to see what does happen pro or con.

 

Fantastic info. Keep it coming.

I've been working on modding the venturi on my airbox but couldn't justify the expense of a bellmouth so went hunting in the local scrappies to see if I could find anything suitable and found that the end of a Passat 20V airbox restrictor was a similar diameter (Passat 20V item on left and the ABF item on the right):

Both cut:

Trial fitting pre epoxy:

All done and matched as best as possible with the airbox ribs removed also:

Closeup:

Lower part (idea shamfully stolen from Glenn):


Probably wont be as good as a bellmouth but certainly better than the standard item or no Venturi at all.

May stick another vent in the lower airbox as per Nandos airbox but really don't like the idea of increasing the induction noise as I find it rather anooying/intrusive on long journeys.

 

Ahh...interesting.
You got a Samco inlet pipe to try?
What about a std vs modified TB comparison?

 

This is even cheaper than obtaining the velocity stack. Very good idea. I done the same in my VR6 airbox except the bellmouth was created using heat.
The bottom of the box does not really matter once the crossectional area of the hole is larger than the top half inlet and actual engine airflow requirements.
When I am back on testing I will test a crudly modified airbox, i.e. air/hone sliencers removed to increasing crossectional area of hole on bottom half and compare to the airbox that was tested in the beginning of my post.
I expect the deltas to be small.
With this modification the noise is really muffled at WOT or heavy tip-ins and is not present during cruises.

 

I've got an ABF airbox in my garage doing nothing. I'm happy to hand it over to support your research efforts.

 

EssThree
If you have one send it and I will test it. The experiments must be kept streamlined though.
I must say though in my experience that these components do not make any difference on a STD engine. Perhaps on a motor that has increased airflow requirements much outside the scope of DIY enthusiasts. These things look cool but just increase cost.
From driving this vehicle with the improvements I cannot say that I am happy with the level of response. Especially as I stepped out of a good working Mk3 VR6. As we can see from my data plots there are improvements in drive torque to be had from recalibration in the lower pre 4000rpm region and some torque to be had in the upper engine speed range. We will see if the aftermarket eprom addresses this situation. I am interested in testing other eproms sold on auctions to see how they also address the issues shown in my data plots.
A recalibration to remove stoichiometric fueling pre 4000rpm will have greater impact on torque production than further air tract improvements. With the short FD of 3.68 and increased rev range. Once optimzed, I can see this vehicle, N7NDO, having more tractive effort than a std MK3 VR6 from 0-6500rpm. I can use my daily MK3 VR6 as a reference
I am also very weary of testing so called air temp mods as these things just replace the NTC IAT sensor with fixed resistance to simulate a colder temp in an uneducated attempt to modify global spark timing. This method also freezes manifold temperature related modifiers in the ECU. This can be detrimental if the vehicle is operated in heavy traffic on a hot day with 27-30 deg C ambients, let alone 50-80 deg C under bonnet temps. Not something I would advise on period.

 

Mike,
That would help.

 

i think thats mine from amd last year with a cheap ebay chip

 

Toyotec,
Are you planning on playing with fuelling / timing at any point?

Since you are clued up on MS, I wonder if a plug and play MS set up would give you the option, without too much hassle?
Easy to compare Digi 3.2 to MS?

 

Where can i get a air horn like eatonmk2 has used in his airbox?

 

I am indeed and was planning on converting a built MS 3X unit to be digi 3.x plug and play to optimise MBT and LBT per speed/load site.
Unless you already have such a unit knocking about.

 

I remember that as I was there. However, it would be more scientific to test before and after on the same rolls same day. You may find that your engine had this character pre chip.

 

PM eatonmk2.
But as G60dub pointed out you can get a plastic one from the scrappy que passat/audi A4 20v. This should have the same effect with the bottom box section opened out and may even be cheaper or free

 

at the time it had the standard bell mouth in the top of the air box but extra ducting to the bottom half, flowed throttle body. still has a cat etc so not far from a standard engine

 

As it happens...I do!
Sitting in a box in my garage.

I'll need to solder the loom back together after I removed it from my Mk3...but it will plug straight in as I used a Digi 3.2 ECU as the base for a break-out box. It uses the existing vacuum connection and will certainly let the engine start and run.
Not sure what state the mapping is in...as it was last played with trying to get 268 cams to run.
I'll solder it up and test it on my ABF to make sure...

When are you thinking of the next round of tests?

 

Samco list the pipe under Seat ABF 16v.


See how the pipe is 60mm where it meets the airbox then goes to almost 100mm till the bend then goes down to T/B size, it's like a small air volume chamber.


I think we can find a std T/B but it's finding the time to test everything, I think test 2 will be AMD v's STD v's Ebay chips and std intake pipe v's samco intake pipe plus small play with air temp.

 

I can send my homemade venturi, I can also fit my OEM EEPROM & send if required my 'Powerchips' greek guy ebay EEPROM for testing if needed?

 

Once I have the time we can run as many tests as required. We already have multiple lambda data on the std ECU. So the tests on two aftermarket venders can happen on the vehicle as supplied. I do run as std at least two tests per condition to sort out test noise and could perform more if I am not happy.
The IAT sensor 'mod' as stated in a previous post above is a waste of time testing.
I would be interested in a metal induction pipe vs the silicone type pipe, vs standard equipment.
I would like to keep this thread induction related and open another thread for ECU calibration when we get there.

 

Excellent!
I should be available in 3-4 weeks. If the vehicle is available next 4 weeks or so.