Great stuff , i've had a good read through all the info . don't want it happening again, i'm enjoying the racing too much
p.s. my original bolt was torqued up and fitted as per instructions i think doing a Burn out @ 8000rpm with M&H Wrinkles and coming out of the burn out pit contributed towards the bolt coming loose. http://youtu.be/RoLdRYG1jTA Burn out seem to contribute towards alot of engine failures i've seen, i.e. Bargates internal trigger wheel failure
With regards to oiling or lubing the bolt, is it ok to use the arp lube that came with the head bolts? I used it the other day, but the bolt snapped. So thought id check this time.
I still have nightmares over removing and torquing the crank pully bolt on my mates Focus Zetec. Nearly impossible and keyless cam and crank pulleys (stupid design if you as me..).
The 90 degree turn takes it roughly to 290nm or 215 ftlb As i had some left, I used arp lube instead of oil.
I have just used this method today with a new pulley bolt. I had a bit of 3mm plate laying around so drilled 3 holes, bolted them to the pulley and wedged it behind the water pump. Marked the centre bolt at 90Nm then added 90 degrees as per the paint pen marks and the pulley never moved a mm. Previously I`ve tried locking the gearbox with someone pressing the brake or a bit of wood between the crank web and the block. This was by far the easiest method.
There is an alternative to this, that is equally as easy to make and use, for the engine fitted to the car. This: Credit to vw_singhs for rigging it up for me. It consists of a MK2 PAS pulley and an old jack handle. So to apply the correct clamp force to this, Two of the water pump pulley fastners hold the tool in place. The tool is then jammed on a solid surface and the clamping torque can be applied, including more than a 1/4 turn if required. Job done!