G1/5 is earthed G1/3 is bridged to ecu via yellow/blue E2 has two black, one goes to the immob, and the other is loose. I don’t even have a D connector, or that loom at all I have notice F1 has been cut... Thanks
Ok so need to grab a D plug from somewhere, F/1 is your crankin live to starter on manual or.interlock system on auto. I guess it was cut when removing from donor as guy couldn't be bothered to chase it fully for nice removal
It’s okay I figured it out I get lights on my cluster now yey And it starts on the key, but no idle and actually the oil cooler has let by so I need to re do the gasket I guess Why would the throttle body buzz? Seems loud Also, will it idle without the lambda?
throttle should make some noise yeah, not sure how loud they should be as I've not ever listened to one 1st step in idle issue trouble shooting is give throttle body a damn good clean. also make sure the throttle cable isnt too tight it should idle and run ok without the lambda, but will be better once plugged in. Now you have it starting up do you see any codes logged in vagcom?
I haven’t plugged in vagcom yet, but I think the immob is still active. It runs shortly, then it dies, including power to the fuel pump... The only cables I don’t have connected for the ecu are the grey and grey white The diagram says grey white is the fuel shut off valve, but I don’t have anything like that. Surely there would be something on the fuel pump if that exists? Grey is terminal 15 or whatever that is.
Can it be the grey white connects up to the airbag ecu loom? I’ve taken that out. Do I need to bridge it to something else?
where are the grey/white and grey wires? if they're connected to the immobiliser box then one of them plugs to ecu diagnostics and the other goes to diagnostics jumper. if you have defeated the immo then you dont need the box or its loom any more, can remove that. then there is a grey/white from the ecu loom is the ECU diagnostics wire, it would have a brown plug on the end originally. post-95 it plugs into the immobiliser box, pre-95 and cars with defeated immobiliser it fits to the diagnostics jumper block which then allows communications with vagcom (on immo cars theres a wire from immo box to jumper which allows immo and ecu to be scanned over same wire) the plug on the ecu wire differs depending if it had immo or not, so if you defeat it you have to change the plug on the end so it fits the diagnostics jumper. alternatively if you leave the immobiliser box wired in this will still allow ecu communications even if its no longer in use
Well I have... Ecu grey white to immob via connector Immob grey to jumper block Jumper block grey white /yellow to obd port Still no go
thats all good then. is the immo box definitely matched to the key/chip and your ecu? best get diagnostics on it next I recon. where are the loose grey and grey/white wires coming from?
you'll probably just need to replace the reader coil, its not coded to anything so can grab from any post-96 mk3 golf and many other VW from 96-98 such as polo
hmm, i guess immo box itself is bad then or you're unlucky with key reader coils. try chris bellman, james e looms or william skelton on facebook for immo defeat. or if you can get a known good immo box with matched chip you can fit those then use vagcom to code it to your ecu
Ok james sorted me out. I've bypassed the ECU grey white to immob box, now to the jumper. I'm now getting 00668 Supply Voltage Terminal 30 fault code with 07-10 Signal Voltage Too Low. Engine starts better, but splutters like hell and wont run unless i pump the throttle. I have spark at all six, coil pack looks fine no cracks. I've used a Felicia tank and pump, but its 3 bar like the vr6 so I dont think its fuel. Could the injectors be a bit sensitive? Cant seem to see why it would be timing because I checked it when I did the timing chains and its nearly impossible to get it wrong... I'll keep trying but any tips would be grand!
check the permanent live pin 54 has power, its red/yellow wire to either Y spade or G2/9 depending on age/model
Yup I have power at 54 and the fault has cleared. Still no idle. Do I need to bleed the air out of the fuel rail as I’ve had that all apart?
