Vr6 - GTI Ball joint extenders (again..)

McGill stuff is great... for throttle linkages, maybe a ARB mount, but structual like that...

Even with quality rose joint, my experience on a mini suggests fully exposed I doubt that would last 1000km, no probs on track but no good on road

 

my radical sr8 front upper wishbone connects to the upright via a rod end, but an NMB rod end....

the bottom wishbone connects via a spherical bearing as used in the scch kit. thats the way to do it.

 

SCCH Group Buy live here

 

I have no authorization to see the GB, can someone authorize me?

Btw i'm going to one more direction too, but i need some measurments from you guys since i'm living far from home these months.
I'm playing with CAD and i'd need the measurmentes in red in the picture, MK3 VR6/GTI version, hole distances and base thickness.
Can someone help me?

Thanks

 

Group buys are for paid members only. Pay your 10 to save much more.

 

That's what i just did
Is it automatic now?

 

Good man.
No, it takes a few days, but I'll add you so long. What do you want to order?

 

I'm interested in bj group buy, i'd like to have some information, could you give me some infos via pm?
Thanks

 

PM incoming

 

Or not. You're over your PM limit.

 

Again available, thanks!

Edit:
But will they produce the 5studs version? I can see only 4 studs chassis products..

 

I have de design, i'm trying to get some quotes here in rome, now the question:
How many people interested in VR6 extenders?
Do you know some honest machiner to get quote too?
Thanks :-)

 

nice level lower arms with the rose jointed track rod ends upside down for improved bump steer.

 

Correct me if i'm wrong but dont you want the arms pointing down? especially when there is not an engine in the car yet?

i thought that the idea is the arms be straight in a 'bump' situation.
if the arms are straight with no weight in the car, they will be pointing upwards with weight in or in a bump, which would result in toe out and bump steer.

arent the arms meant to be level at or close to the top of the suspensions travel?

just a thought...

 

The ideal thing to do is drop the ball joint as low as possible, regardless of the Wishbone angle.

I would design extenders to drop the joint as low as possible while fitting inside the smallest wheel space. For most people this will be a 15" wheel.

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The arms want to be level at the average point of suspension travel when the car is being used. At this point there is minimum camber change. Same reason why single seaters have very long wishbones - minimum amount camber change per unit of deflection. So this is going to need a downward pointing wishbone under static conditions.

 

Good point but not sure id totally agree with that,mcpherson strut loses camber under bump.We need all the camber we can get so starting at the lowest possible position seems a best option to me

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But on the picture above, the wishbones are level without an engine in the car. Once you fit that, they`ll be pointing up (from the subframe to the hub) which you don`t want. Cornering will make it even worse.

I must admit, I missed that when I saw the photo yesterday, good spot twolitrepinto

 

So we are saying that ideally I want the lower arms pointing down, when under its own weight with the engine in?

Handling should be improved now then compared to my original set up because they were pointing up a lot more when under its own weight with the engine before the extensions were fitted.

With a 110kg bloke standing on the chassis legs the car only dropped about 10mm.

So therefore if the lower arms stay in the current position with the engine in, in a "bump" situation the steering arms will become level so the bump steer effect will be resolved.

And even if it doesn't reach the ideal position of the lower arms it is still much much closer to this position than I was before therefore it will improve my handling?

Interesting facts and although my set up won't reach the ideal position I will be much closer to them than what I was originally.


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