Weber 32/34 Installation help

Discussion in 'Carburettor' started by Plugg4, Apr 9, 2018.

  1. Plugg4 New Member

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    Hi guys, a pretty novice question, but after numerous problems with mu 2e2 I decided to take the leap of faith and buy a Weber carb. Im installing the carb on my Auto 1991 8v Mk2 Golf Driver, but I need a bit of help. I've got the carb on but im stuck to what vacuum pipes I need to keep, as well as what electrical wiring I need. If anyone can point me in the right direction and/or has any pictures of theirs, that would be much appreiciated! Thank you again :)
     
  2. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    have a look in my signature link, coupel weber docs in there.

    but in short the answer is: bin everything lol

    you only need a vacuum line from the brake servo hose to the dizzy, cap off the other nipple. airbox vacuum line goes to the nipple on the rear of the carb. you need to fit the 2e2 carb heater to the weber adaptor flange, which has a spade to plug in, and you need an earth from top of the carb to the head. all the othwer plugs, vacuum line, ball etc can be removed/tied out of the way.
     
  3. Plugg4 New Member

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    Thank you for your help bud, it was working... But now I have another problem :( After setting it up to what I would say was correct, it turned over and was idling a treat until I turned it off for a minute to top up the coolant I lost, I then went to start it back up again and it wasn't having any of it? It turns over just doesn't fire up, any insight? I really appreciated the help by the way, its crazy how difficult finding information on this is considering its a pretty popular swap [:[]
     
  4. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    Did you any luck with this one?
     
  5. Plugg4 New Member

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    Had it working lovely for a few days, although it was a pain to start again after you have driven it? Then yesterday it cut out on me 3 times, unsure what the problems it
     
  6. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    one thing it could be is missing restrictor in the fuel return, to test for this remove the switl pot and plumb the pump direct to the carb, block the return hose. if it drives fine after you do this put everythign back to oem, and fit a welding tip in the return hose that usually does the trick.

    another possibility might be carb icing if its cutting out when drivign along, make sure the warm air feed pipe is there as well as the metal shroud on the exhaust manifold and make sure the flap in the airbox actually opens when car is started. also check if the carb heater is working (you did swap it over from the 2e2 right?)
     
  7. Plugg4 New Member

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    Brilliant, I'll try both of these, thank you! And yes, swapped from a 2e2
     
  8. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    keep us informed :) oh and there should be an earth from the top of the carb to the rocker vocer for the heater, plus check you get ignition live on the heater wire. if you check between plug and top of carb that will tell you if both the ignition feed and carb earth are good :)
     
  9. Plugg4 New Member

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    So I've done the above and no improvement unfortunatly :( Although I have figured something out, when the engine is cold and the choke is all the way out, it really struggles to stay alive? I could be using the choke wrong (as its my first car with a manual choke) but if I start the car and leave it run for a minute, then put the choke all the way in, it seems to stay running even when I start driving, but even when I start driving and I put my foot down on the accelorator its very stuttery and doesnt give me a clean acceleration if that makes any sense? Thank you again for the help, love these cars but hate them at the same timelol
     
  10. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    how is it when the car is fully up to temp? generally you pull the choke out as far as you need to for a nice idle, then gradually push it in as the engine warms up. did you check the condition of the rubber base flange while it was apart?
     
  11. Plugg4 New Member

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    When the car is up to temp and the choke is in it goes okay,, very stuttery on the throttle, but doesnt cut out, checked the rubber flange yesterday and its in good nik. Could it be flooding?
     
  12. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    it may just need setting up, have you checked the accellerator pump? was it a used one, if so did you check the jet sizes are correct?
     
  13. Plugg4 New Member

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    Weber was new when I bought it and allegedly already jetted for a 1.6, but im unsure of the sizes that are supposed to be on it anyway so im not 100%
     
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    one of the wber pdfs i have shows the jetting :)
     
  15. Plugg4 New Member

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    Update!

    So im finally going to start on my Golf again after a very long time of letting it sit. Earlier this year I decided to upgrade my 1.6 Auto MK2 Golf to a Weber 32/34 DMTL. I managed to fit the carb and connect everything. The car ran well for a week or so until it decided to cut out on me on a variety of different occasions. I played around with the carb and got it back up and running again; until it decided to do the same thing... again. Im not sure what the problem is? It idles okay but it usually cuts out if you use the accelorator.
     
  16. pigbladder Forum Addict

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    are you using the choke properly...with mine id start up and push it in to maintain an idle around 1k , then it might be over another 2 miles that you gradually push it all the way in

    you can also adjust them so the cold idle is faster
     
  17. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    is the warm air system hooked up and working properly. now its getting a bit more cold & moist out carb icing becomes more of an issue
     
  18. Plugg4 New Member

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    "Finally going to start on my Golf again" :lol: Anyone know any decent carb tuners in Cornwall? May be a long shot but could be worth a try.
     
  19. pigbladder Forum Addict

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    have a read on the forums and set it up yourself...theyre very simple to tune up and no need to pay out

    tuned mine up like it said in the instructions and always passed the mot with great emmisions
     

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