So, I've read through many threads, done searches etc and it's apparent that I need to use either a VR6 crankshaft sensor or one from a "1.8T" Quality brand VR6 items seem to thin on the ground - all I can find are things like Intermotor (120 from ECP) or Lemark (18 on ebay). I want to re-use the older style wiring connectors that I have but the 1.8T sensors mostly have the later oval connector. I say mostly because the AEB sensor seems to have the older connector - and I've found Bosch/Febi/Hella versions - any reason why this wouldn't work?
Thanks for the replies guys. I think I'll order one and compare it to the ABF one I bought - as long as the mounting lug position and sensor depth are the same I guess it should be ok then. Do you know of a branch that isn't fussy about trade only? I've only ever tried my local one and they weren't helpful. How is the quality on Topran parts these days? Thanks for the offer mate but I suspect they'll have the oval connectors? (which I'm trying to avoid)
Alternatively, the 12v VR6 item is of the era of square connectors as is the AEB/ADR item. Any of those work.
The golf 3 2.0 ABA crank sensor is VR. 021 907 319 B. Strange that the North American tall block 8 valves should be VR and the EU are Hall but there we go..... I just changed the ABA sourced VR from my MS2 ADY block 8v to a Hall and the plugs were the same as the above VR that I removed, although what the pins connected to was obviously not the same! It seems to start a shade quicker now. With an 11:1 CR, i had the impression that it took a while for the starter to crank fast enough for the VR to generate a clean spike. my theory was that measuring a voltage through the Hall would be better than generating a voltage with the VR....... Hope that helps My aim was to get the
Fair enough. I still need you to have a look at my settings but absolutely need to get a job first. My hope was to get a faster start and save money on starter motors. Agreed that Hall or VR makes no difference once the thing is actually running. I will add something though, just in case someone like me comes across this thread looking for an answer: When I changed from VR to Hall using the internal 60-2 crank wheel and front hole the ADY block, i fitted a cheap Hall sensor that I got off EBay for about 15 quid. Whilst it functioned, it was fractionally thinner than it should have been and ****ed engine oil on the floor. Fortunately, i had a rummage through my spares box and found a FEBI hall sensor that i had managed to forget that I'd bought for this very purpose a couple of years ago. Oil leak cured. Admittedly some RTV or a chunkier O ring might have done the job, but i thought i'd share