'88 Golf GTI 8v Build - here we go again!

Discussion in 'Mk2' started by Spacecowboy, Mar 10, 2018.

  1. Spacecowboy Paid Member Paid Member

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    I've been offered some koni gold series. Any good?
     
  2. Joehough

    Joehough Paid Member Paid Member

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    Put mobil 1 in it. I had an 88 8 valve from new and always used Mobil 1. At 50000 miles GTI Engineering had it for a service and the mechanic said there was zero wear on camshaft.
     
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  3. anthony3p Paid Member Paid Member

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    3 door Helios blue with BBS wheels looks fantastic, classic look.

    For your GTI, the VW badge on the front grill should be black, the VW badge on the back should be silver.

    I would recommend Eibach springs with Bilstein shocks, the ride will be great.

    Your new exhaust looks bang on standard, where did you buy it from as Im after a new back box and want to keep car looking original also.
     
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  4. Spacecowboy Paid Member Paid Member

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    It was an ebay purchase. The packaging is terrible (a common theme according to the sellers feedback) but I do rate the system. 77 quid for the full set of boxes with clamps. They gave me 10 off afterwards because of that.

    It's made by Polish company Polmostrow which most systems on ebay are it would seem so have a search about. You can find them for around 30 delivered. Or GSF and Euro do them by Klarius but none were in stock for me at the time.
     
  5. Spacecowboy Paid Member Paid Member

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    What are the likely causes of the front wipers operating but the rear wiper not working when I push the stalk backwards?
     
  6. Spacecowboy Paid Member Paid Member

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    Good to see the site integration has been successful and it's using the same platform as Latebay forum. Hopefully it has the same functionality too.

    Today is timing day. I'll let you know how I get on.
     
  7. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Yes site layout is great! Good luck with the timing hopefully it'll sort the wild idling out.

    Pop off the little rubber boots on the boot hatch that protect the wiring from lid to body and check for broken wires. If all look ok then I'd check continuity from wiring at N/S tail light area upto the wiper motor it's self. There is a little connector plug down near the ns tail light that feeds the motor. I'd go from there.
     
  8. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    I assume the water jets onto the back screen ok? If so go as above - if not then look at the stalk :thumbup:
     
  9. Spacecowboy Paid Member Paid Member

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    @DN5 no water jets, no light in boot, no rear wiper. I'll go digging for the plug you mention and check the wiring into the hatch:thumbup:
     
  10. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    I'm working on mine at the minute so I'll post a photo in a sec of the connector plug that feeds the wiper. Check the water bottle in the engine bay hasn't been plugged on the route to the rear also.
     
  11. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    rsz_20180331_134359.jpg rsz_20180331_134406.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2018
  12. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Black/yellow & green/black :thumbup:
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2018
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  13. Spacecowboy Paid Member Paid Member

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    Cheers buddy perfect!
     
  14. Spacecowboy Paid Member Paid Member

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    Last edited: Apr 2, 2018
  15. Spacecowboy Paid Member Paid Member

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    Today I took apart the drivers door as the glass was making a hell of a racket. Turned out the winder mechansim had sheared where it attahced to the glass and therefore loose. Also the rubber and felt guide in the rail nearest the hinge had fallen into the bottom.

    Fortunately a mate is breaking a Mk2 so I was able to get a replacement mechanism easily enough. The rubber and felt guide just needed a quick clean and sliding back into position. After refitting the original shredder with 3M All Weather tape (great stuff!) the door now shuts with a nice purposeful German thud :thumbup:
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2018
  16. Spacecowboy Paid Member Paid Member

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    I also started about looking to time her up finally as I'd been taken away for Birthday celebrations as a surprise.

    So first up I thought I'd try to find the cam sprocket timing marks. For some reason I have a dot on each side of the sprocket (in different positions to each other) but cannot find any 'OT' marks. Is this because its an early digifant?

    View attachment 7589

    So as I have to repaint the rocker cover I thought I'd take that off. A few studs came out instead of the nut (i hope the head is ok) and one nut stripped but the stud is ok. I hope that's not going to be a future problem...

    So rocker removed I have this:
    View attachment 7590
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2018
  17. Spacecowboy Paid Member Paid Member

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  18. Spacecowboy Paid Member Paid Member

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    I think this is the clattery culprit. It's hard to see but the lifter looks rose gold as it's sitting in the head and the lobe is marked.

    View attachment 7597

    This one too looks suspect. It's around this side of the head that the noise emanates:

    View attachment 7598

    Huge amount of carbon build up all round. I reckon this has experienced some hard cornering and oil starvation in the head?
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2021
  19. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    with the timing marks the cam and int shaft sprockets are the same part number, this is for why you have 2 dimples. the early cars with metal cambelt cover have no OT marker, this only came in on the later cars with 2 piece plastic cover.

    give all the tappets a good push, do any feel more squishy than the rest? often all you need to fix clattery tappets is an oil flush then refill with decent 10w40 with an OEM or MANN oil filter
     
  20. Spacecowboy Paid Member Paid Member

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    @rubjonny Thanks for the response. Few queries:

    1) So my cam sprocket has no OT mark at all? In which case do I just ignore the outer dot and use the inner dot to line up on the head as normal?

    2) What do you think of the condition of the cam based on the pics? Any cause for concern?

    3) I have a new set of hydraulic lifters and a new Autotec 270 camshaft to go in. Is it worth me messing around with what's in there already?

    4) Is it worth trying to get all that burnt oil out or am I best off leaving well alone?

    I performed an oil change last week with a mann filter and quality oil. Slightly quieter but still clattery.
     

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