Exactly. A lot of boyz in here did the same in their Mk1 Mk2 axles. I am sure that you have seen it before .
Long live to VWM Golf Mk3 Kit Car. IIRC, it was the great beginner It is also a clever way to adjust toe in/out which in turn alters camber angle. As you toe in you get more negative camber. As you toe out you get more positive camber. There are times inside track that some toe out will be needed. Trying to do that will decrease camber angle and someone might need shims to adjust camber angle to desired level (depending also on how low your rear is which favours camber angle). Camber shims: http://www.eurosportacc.com/camber_caster_adjustment_kits_bolts_plates.htm http://gti-vr6.net/library/suspension/inst_rear_shims/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3aaHhQIdCJU (software aligment program here: http://www.spcalignment.com/ezshim/application/)
Only just found this thread, car looks awesome mate! I never really liked white cars but you've made me change my mind! Have you had any issues with rear wheel bearings or with the stub axle bolts coming loose?
Nop, never. Only been at track once though. Don't know what will happen in the future after hard track pressure. I will surely check and tell if something goes wrong. 1.8T_mk2: I have seen the whole procedure you went through and connected the ecu rpm signal on your dash (at your monster-Mk2 thread ). Although some kind guyz in here tried to help me on how to connect my tacho seen in the pictures, i am still trying to find a way to achieve this. I only know that the AGU ecu has a pin 6 rpm signal which i connect to the tacho but does nothing. Just a jump. I have heard about diodes and seen that u have used them. Can you please drive me through an accurate solution? Got no revs read while racing
Cool, like the sound the sound of that! The tacho turned out to be quite an easy fix in the end. All I did was... 1) Take the tacho signal wire and solider a 13k resistor on to it. 2) Attach the resistor to earth. 3) Connect the rev counter to the resistor on the same side as the signal wire. The ecu needs the load on the circuit to output the signal properly.
Really liking that!! The exhaust looks great, the wheels are spot on and that engine is a beast!! Top work fella
hi. i have mk2 with AUQ engine. (origilnal PL engine) i try your connection for speedometer but doesnt work. no idea what those might be wrong? rpm signal from ecu i try connect to T10 orange conector pin 2 - green/red to ecu T121/81 (Tach signal from ecu via tach adaptor to G1 pin 12) and pin 6 - blue/white ecu T121/54 to speed signal in dash wiring (Hall speed sensor on clocks W pin 1) but not one pin that did not work
The set up I used was for a Race Technology Dash and not the standard mk2 tacho. The tacho signal from the ECU is different to the standard coil output signal that you would normally find in a mk2. I was going to try and make my own tacho signal converter but I never needed too in the end. I think QPeng or Jabba Sport do one that should help you out if you still need it.
Hi mate. Regarding the above post of yours did you manage to make a tacho signal converter? If you did not, do you have any diagrams of it to pm me? Need to make digital signal from pin 6 of ECU work with my aftermarket tacho and can't cope with this case any longer . Anyone to assure that Qpeng or Jabbasport ones will solve the prob?
After long time, promise to come back in some days with more infos on the car's new set up. Some more images to come also...
Going to race the car in a Honda track-weekend at 22-23 of Feb. Lots of photos and videos will be coming after that. It seems that testing the car should start the following days. I got 2 pairs of Kumho 240/610/17 slicks in superb condition for it to be ready for that weekend. Last 2 months me and my friends made some changes on the car. Manufactured and installed some new solid engine mounts. Have changed all subframe bolts with new ones adding loctite round them. Have mixed the "sticky" KAAZ LSD 80-90 valvoline with 75-90 one for LSD so that diff locking becomes smoother as it tended to offer serious amount of torque steer in the front system. Set the diff at preferable lock % should sound the right solution but there is no time for that now. Installed Combrake aluminum steering rack clamps to secure steering rack motion. These days we are working on some aerodynamic improvements. Nige's Mk2 aero kit was studied alongside with Vehicle Aerodynamics books. Both were strong motives for us to build something effective. Starting points were a front splitter-dam combination and a rear wing. Some photos are below. Splitter is from different car manufacturer and was installed as an idea of a way to build one suitable for Mk2 bumper. Some canards are also in the aero plan (from http://www.carbonmods.co.uk). If time and budget allows, we would like to build a flat underbody cover that will end up in a rear diffuser. So more to come...
A video from last year's Honda-Tech.gr Trackday at Serres circuit in North Greece. Car appears at 0:47 [video=youtube;5GlU28oUtdg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5GlU28oUtdg[/video]
Hello mate, car is looking serious! Just noticed your post about the tacho driver. Did you manage to sort anything?
Thanks a lot. Unfortunately, i was not able to sort it and couldn't find someone to sort it for me also. I am going to change my alternator in a couple of days so i'll install one that could be connected to my aftermarket 12v rev counter.
