Right. I wonder where they sourced them from? That Brazil marking doesn't make much sense to me. You've definitely seen an OEM one in a Scirocco, as an original? What year?
Brasil blocks were definitely fitted to vehicles in this country. I had one in my 1.8 EX engined 1992 rocco gt2. And the other 2 92 rocco gt2 I broke had the same brasil blocks too. Even this lads old PB block was a brasil block.
Most stock digifant 8v motors are good for the factory 112bhp or a tad more. Mileage doesn't really harm power, only poor servicing and basic settings being wrong, so I'd disagree that an "old" engine is unlikely to make stock power. From my personal experience tuning such an 8v motor, I found that getting past 120-125bhp with an 1800 quite a challenge....head, cam, exhaust, remap. As such I'd be content that 120+ shows it's definitely not a 1600 with low comp pistons etc and is in the ballpark, so don't despair I certainly think a little bit of attention to detail setting the cam timing to give equal lift on overlap at tdc will reap rewards. The 8v motors always tend to give their best around this cam timing. If this can be established, then ignition advance and fuelling can be fettled to suit. Peak torque and power being at such high rpms are not really in keeping with an engine that has been tuned for mid range driveability IMO..
My old mk2 rally car 1.6 (1595cc) made 125bhp (Maha dyno lottery blah blah blah), with naff all compression. Home ported head and GS25 cam. It would rev to over 8k too.
I'll have a look at my '92 Scirocco and see what that is. I'm pretty sure its the original bottom end, at nearly 188k miles. A lot of Brazil blocks went into service engines (and head castings into service heads, some with G60 size ports and 39.5 inlet valves vs 40mm).
just to add about the timing if i may.. after all my probloms. like mine, the cam could be set to eqal overlap and the standard marks be no where near. i matched up my vernier with my origanal pulley aswell and marked it. but set at eqal overlap my standard mark is about 2 teeth away from the level of the head. id listen to what everyones telling you, none of it is hard to do yourself. neil.
Indeed, over 100hp at the wheels on Pauls' spec if all was well and set up correctly... somewhere around 107-108 really. I'd be a bit dubious of a company that thinks they've got over 270 ibft of torque from an 8v engine.... I think they need to look a bit closer at their own graph and recalibrate! Peak power should be around mid 5K. Standard 1800 8v's will make 89-90hp at the wheels, well tuned 2ltr 8v's (on std injection plenums, road not race spec) can crack 130 at the wheels.
Bit worried!!! From the various comments I have received on here about my rolling road session, I am pretty certain that my car is not running right. I had the rocker cover off today to check the positon of the cam lobes when the engine is at TDC. To my horror, when I removed the rocker cover, I noticed that the splash shield was broken at each end??? When I first got my car back from the rebuild the garage hadn't bothered replacing the splash shield and told me that with some aftermarket cams there can be contact?? When the car had to go back in I asked them to fit it because I had read that the oil breather can get overwhelmed without the splash shield fitted. Can't believe they would have fitted it broken?? Does this mean the cam has broken the shield? If so where have the broken bits gone to???[:^(][:^(][:^(] I have also noticed a really loud ticking noise coming from the joint between the stainless exhaust and the down pipe have I got problems?? Could it be bits of the shield?? Cheers alpenweiss2[:^(] photos of cam position to follow!
garage probly broke the splash sheild, thats why they didnt fit it. my last engine never had it and drank alott of oil because of it, stopped when i put one in. ticking is most likly an exhaust leak
Forget the numbers as you do not have a baseline, the curve looks more 16v to me, which if it does pull hard is pretty good going for an 8v. Your torque curve ( the force that gives your the drive feeling) can do with some help. Moving the cam globally will require and recalibration of both fuel and spark. That is my 2p.
Toyotec....please read the entire thread for answers to your questions Your replies to each point may not be simple enough to understand by the o.p A stock displacement 8v is highly unlikely to match a 16v in terms of power delivery due to the difference in valve area. Peak power and torque so high in the rev range with a relatively mild cam indicate incorrect cam &/or ignition timing IMO
I have ordered a new splash shield from VW (Only cost around a tenner plus VAT) and also the uprated rubber rocker cover gasket and stud kit. My rocker cover has now been off twice since the rebuild and for some reason the garage that did the rebuild saw fit to use black silicone all around the rubber infills of the cork gasket??? (FFS) Anyway here are the pictures of the cam timing and cam lobe postion at TDC!! Hopefully Mr Hillclimber, Chris MC or another of you knowledgable Mk2 nuts will be able to enlighten me as to the issues. Remember the vernier is retarded by six degrees! Flywheel lined up with bellhousing pointer at TDC marker Position of the vernier in relation to the O.T. mark on the plastic cam cover backplate Position of the cam lobes on GS2H cam, with flywheel at TDC - end view Position of No1 cylinder cam lobes from front with flywheel at TDC So are those picture any help? I thought that A B Garage with the rolling road would have reset the cam timing?? Is it still a tooth out and is the vernier retarded by six degrees to compensate?? Any ideas??? Cheers Alpenweiss2
