I will keep my eye on the dizzy cap Gary and check it after it's first outing (whenever that will be... hopefully this year...), I think the other cap you mention is an ABF one or as Neil/riley had on his, a Peugeot item so I'll look into that when everything is in motion full time. vw_singh and a couple of others still use the standard cap with no problems, so a bit hit and miss really... The airbox is secured all the way around the base where I've cut it to get it lower, it's going nowhere but even if it did start to send some vibes on the move I doubt I would hear it over the current poly rear mount and the dash vibes. I'm currently waiting for some money to come through so I can get the insurance sorted and then I can take it somewhere to get the floorpan seen to as well as getting the CO set and a new cambelt on and the timing checked, this may even sort the cold starting so fingers crossed for when that happens. Also trying to decide which coilovers to get as I'm doubting the current setup will be MOT-able (secondhand spring/damper combo, only got the fronts on at the mo but the o/s one is quite soft in comparison to n/s which is rigid as muck, the rears haven't gone on yet as I dont fancy rounding any bolts on the driveway!). FK Konigsports and Weitec TX coilovers both offer height and damper adjustments and are similarly priced ~500. Obviously the FK's rust but they do use Koni dampers (ultra reliable), the Weitec's have zinc coated bodies but green springs! (hehe) now owned by KW I think it is but I doubt KW quality... I would probably just set and forget in terms of the ride height anyway so nothing really lost with the FK's in that respect... Hmmmm.
My Koni inserts lasted 2 years before they got all bouncy Mind you, my kerb hopping tendencies on track may have had something to do with it
Do you still have them on Gary or have you replaced them? Do you get a warrenty with them to replace the dampers if/when they fail? Can they be rebuilt?
I think that is pretty much EXACTLY the issue that i've got, Poly rear mount f-ing close dizzy cap, floorpan, and set-up! Waiting to fit KR T/B, Met head, fuel reg and cams though! Can we still use the vw plug leads with the pug cap? Mine is reaaaaly close.
I see you have just done a bit of a bump up for all the Mk1 16v's then Dave. Neil knows the answer to this I think, I did save the pm he sent me back regarding this but I have lost it on a DVD somewhere but in short, if I remember correctly (correct me if I'm wrong Neil) you have to make your own leads? And the cap is off either a 205 GTI (certain year(s)) or a 405 of a certain spec... I think... Sorry to be so vague!
Have a look at my "3yr old FK" thread in chassis, I bought new front KONI T/A inserts from gwentvw (90 each!) and sandblast/painted the shock bodies. Not sure about warranty on them. FK thread Edited by: GVK
They look exactly like my bro's on his Mk4 bit of a site really for original outlay. I'm sure you get a lifetime warrenty with them of some sort... It would seem then that for any coilover unit, the bodies can be protected by - for an example, Por-15 or maybe powdercoated? (yey/ney?) And the threads can be protected by either a thick grease/wax or tape, or combo of both. FK Konigsports you would definately have to paint the bodies, for the same cost I have some Wietecs qith zinc coated bodies which may put out for a year longer or so before corrosion starts. Or is 300+ really beneficial for a setup like KW V2's? Next port of call would be how long the inserts last before they go spungey! Might have to make a poll thread for this later.
good work the dizzy cap if you use the mk2 16v servo and 22mm m/c you can use the standard cap if you dont wana do that the abf cap will fit straight on and its got the leads pointing upwards not out
Ditto with Russ' comment. The ABF cap is 037 905 207 so I'll have a look at one and report my findings. Can you use the KR leads?
yah they go straight on but the pug one u need to make some leads up so its better to use the abf or change the servo it makes a big differnce
Original KR cap: ABF cap offered up: It seems to fit on at the back quite well (as in it will fit fine) but it doesn't all sit on flush. I think this just needs removing and it will work? And a pic of the Ashley manifold 2-3 months on with no road driving at all, only the odd start up to check eletrics or leaks. Good 'ol mild steel.
Hello, Yourprojectlooks nice. You do it the right way!! I did also a 16v conversion in my own golf mk1. But the way you handel it is sow much better (to clean everything up and change to a GTI setting) The picture above shows a special vw tool. I'm now struggeling to get the flange back on but it won't work.Canyou give me some dimensionsof the tool so I can remake it? Like the thread (M10x1,5?xlength) and the dimensions of the big peace of metal (length x wide x height) Excuse me for my english, I'm from holland
I used the tool all the way back in June and gave it back straight after I used it, so you'd have to guess the sizes really. A member on here called 'Hotgolf' suggested the following to making a tool for the job: So at least an M8 thread, not sure on the spec (anyone? 1.0/1.5?), the big bar was probably 25x25x80mm (80mm, or whatever the measurement is required to span the drive flange). The slot at the top of the rod is used to screw the thread in. The actual VW tool for 020 gearboxes looks like this and would give a bit more room to get the little circlip on: I wish I had used a rust preventative paint for all those bits now, such as 'Por-15', the finish looks very good and tough! Unlike Hammerite which will inevitably flake off... If I was to rebuild it I'd certainly use Por-15.