Hi again hope you will be able to help me. I have just fitted a new dizzy. The new dizzy didn't have the mark on the rim for pointing the rotor arm to no 1, so while the old one was in place I put a mark on the block in line with the mark on the original one. I then set timing toTDC and removed old dizzy .I fitted new one to the mark I made on the block. It started up ok then started to run rough I then noticed the 4 in 1 manifold glowing red hot! .. I quickly switched the ignition off! The van was running mostly ok before I changed the dizzy. Sometimes it was hard to start and a had slight misfire at low revs..so I thought this new part would help. I was going to set the timing to 6 deg BTDC with a timing light.. many thanks H
was it a non-branded after market? if so send it back and look for a genuine VW or bosch replacement. pattern parts have been known to cause issues with timing
] Its a Mapco german part no 0087355 80352..I bought it last year so unfortunately i'm unable to return it. When side by side in the same position the "tabs,dont know the correct word" are at the opposite side . I have pointed them out . Could this be throwing the timing out? Thanks H
doesnt matter what side the hall sensor is on, just that the gaps in the trigger wheel are in the right places. from what we worked out this was the issue with aftermarket 16v distributors causing power loss. these are definitly important as the trigger wheels are different on polo spi and gt distributors and a gt wont run right with spi dizzy what made you replace the original distributor anyway?
Ok thanks for explaining. I was going to change the dizzy as occasionally I was getting a hesitation at low revs, as I had renewed every part in the engine bar this I thought maybe it was worn. After removing the old one I see that the center pin in the cap was stuck up inside and the rotor arm is in a bad state .. So I have ordered a new Bosch rotor arm and fitted a new cap to the old( original Bosch dizzy) which I will now reuse..so hopefully when the new rotor arm arrives all will be good
Hi.. Right I have bought a new Bosch dizzy ..fitted it and all the timing is correct ( had it confirmed as correct with a mechanic) and still have the red hot manifold problem ( and I mean RED hot!!). My code reader says.. code 00525 oxygen sensor no signal . So today I checked the plug loom side, and no 12v with ignition turned on? I also did a smoke test and found a small leak which is now repaired. Any ideas why no power to the plug ? Thank again H
Lambda heater is fed by fuel relay so you would need to check while engine is running or with fuel relay socket bridged Maybe cat is blocked?
What number is the fuel relay? On the lambda sensor plug I have checked the 2 white wires which i think are for the heater side of the sensor and all seems ok. I dont have a cat, just straight through stainless exhaust .I had that fitted last month.. Could the lamba not working cause my problem? The engine is a golf mk3 2E Thanks H
for the lambda heater just need to check between the red/white and brown wires on the lambda plug while its running from cold, should see 12v. For the sensor side pin 3 is sensor earth and pin 4 is sensor live, I see 0.5v here on my abf. if you want to check the wiring you should see continuity from pin 42 to pin 3 of lambda and pin 17 to pin 4.
Hi .. firstly I hope you and your family are all well.. Still having the same problem..the ss manifold glowing red hot! These are the new parts I have fitted... NEW bosch dizzy..cap & rotor arm.. fuel filter..coolant sensor.. and lambda sensor. These are the checks I have done.. Full smoke test , found 3 small vacuum leaks .all now repaired. also checked on your advice the red /white and the brown wire at the lambda plug and I am getting 12v. All timing checked and correct.. Absolutely bamboozled!!!! I really dont know what else to try? any more advice would be welcome. thanks for all your help so far. H
what do the spark plugs look like? have you scanned through all the ecu measuring blocks to make sure all your sensors are reading correctly
Hi. these are the tests I have done since my last message.... All plugs are whiter than they should be.. Did a compression test and that has come up with 176/177 psi across all 4. also done another smoke test and all seem fine..on the lambda sensor I am getting 12v at the red/white and brown wire.. and getting 0.4v at the green and red wires. On the mass sensor getting permanent earth to pin 4.. yellow/brown wire. pin 3 blue/black 4.9v pin 2 blue/grey 0v pin 1 blue/white 4.9v .. these results are with the ignition on ..engine not running Also,I partly blocked the foam air filter, ran the engine and the manifold didn't get red hot as before.. I can not measure the blocks as I have not got A vag com , I have only got the hand held code reader /fault scanner for basic tests. Thanks H
Hmm, if it helped.partially blocking the afm maybe that needs looking at. Is it a mk3 golf one? The CO adjustment screw should be blanked off on a 2E
yes the CO adjustment screw had a rubber bung in it ... I have been looking on ebay and the New ones that "supposedly" fit the golf mk 3 only have 3 pin plugs.. mine is a bosch with these numbers .. 0 280 202 130 ... 037 906 301c and has a 4 pin plug ? also my MASS flow sensor is the one with the door/flap
That is the right part number but the fact it has a rubber bung in it is suspicious right away, as they should be blanked with a metal insert on the ones that I've seen and a quick google images: Next step I would get proper vagcom lead so you can do more in-depth diagnostics, once you have it theres lots of test procedures you can go through for all the individual components. You could try adjusting the mixture a bit, though ideally you want proper CO equipment for that and you want to be 100% sure all the other sensor inputs are all ok. VW specifications are when engine fully warmed up 0.5% CO at idle, and when put into setup mode between 0.2 and 1.2% Used ones not exactly easy to find on ebay, this is the cheapest I could see: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174226196751
Hi there thanks for your reply... really grateful I may have a bit of a result . 1st.. i checked for codes.. I had 00523 intake air temp sensor error so cleared that and cleaned sensor with electrical cleaner . 2nd.. I adjusted distributor anti clockwise just (very) slightly,.... I then revved engine to 2000 rpm for 5 to 10 mins... So...The manifold is not getting red at idle OR when revving to 2000 rpm since the slight adjustment to the distributor? would like to hear your views, i'm thinking that the error code could be with me blanking the air filter in my earlier test . The only problem is ,its left my idle speed a touch higher.. I'm looking to get a scanner with live data on it Thanks H
sounds promising, get yourself a usb vagcom/kkl cable off ebay then you can use vcds-lite and do some proper diagnostics
ok many thanks. just looking on e- bay now and i have all ready downloaded vcds lite to computer .thanks again H