Lock barrels and keys

Discussion in 'Corrado' started by Adder, Apr 27, 2024.

  1. Adder Forum Member

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    Afternoon folks,

    My car has three different keys for the four locks on the car obviously, there’s been some sort of malarkey in its life . The ign and drivers door are both on the same key. The passenger door and boot are on different keys each having their own separate key.

    My question is, is it a doable thing to match the tumblers in the passenger and boot locks to match the ign and drivers lock ? Any help or advice is appreciated thank you

    cheers

    Adder
     
  2. Rustbuster

    Rustbuster Paid Member Paid Member

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    Yes it is. It’s relatively easy and there are plenty of YouTube vids on how to do it. Biggest issue is the ignition barrel which has slightly longer, and more of the wafers that define which key operates the barrel. You have the ignition and drivers door to start with so now just have to match the remaining barrels to those. I recently bought a box of wafers off Aliexpress for under a tenner. There are only four different lengths so it is even possible you’ll be able to take your boot and passenger door barrels apart and reposition those to make them work from one key. Look up the vids but if you need anymore help get in touch and will help. Really easy though.
     
    Zender Z20 and Adder like this.
  3. Adder Forum Member

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    Brilliant reply thank you very much ,

    ill check a few vids and have a crack at it, if i get stuck i will give you a shout , thanks once again

    regards

    Adder
     
  4. watercooled Forum Member

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    Location:
    Nelson,New Zealand
    Just to add the tailgate lock is model specific from memory and think it was a bit odd ,it has a detent on the back of the lock,mine was broken and not repairable and with it the CL servo couldn't overcome the resistance so removed it ,knew something was a miss when found the pump hose off !!!!.
    But in reality, I have keys galore, but all my C/L works after a huge amount of time/repair to get there really causes no issue to me with keys.
    cheers and good luck.
     
  5. Adder Forum Member

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    Good to know ,thank you for your upate

    regards

    adder
     
  6. Adder Forum Member

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    Evening folks,

    just a little update, i removed all the wafers things from the passenger barrel and started placing them ono by one back into the barrel trying the lock on each occasion . Four of them work ok but the last three wont work in any combination . I hope you can see by the photo. Im probably going to need some extras .

    Rustbuster, would you mind posting me a link to where you got yours extra ones from please ?

    regards

    Adder IMG_0343.jpeg
     
  7. Rustbuster

    Rustbuster Paid Member Paid Member

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    Will do, I’ll find the link and post it asap. I also sourced a place in the UK that could supply them at a slightly higher cost, I’ll dig their number out too.
     
  8. Adder Forum Member

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    Lovely thank you
     
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    mk3 golf are good donors for spare tumblers+springs in scrappy if you have any local. ignition lock is same as CE2 mk2 but not ce1. possibly the tumblers from ce2/mk3 ignition lock will fit ce1 lock but not tried.

    for boot lock they take the same tumblers as door just be aware that cl and non-cl differ if you were getting a full set (you can swap tumblers either way though)

    another thign if you have a cl boot lock it has a wee ball bearing and spring for the 3 position click you feel (or not if its gummed up) You can use a CL lock in a non-cl car but not the other way round obv unless you dont mind loosing the cl on the boot of course
     
  10. Adder Forum Member

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    Thanks for that Jonny , i didn’t know that about the C/l . When i order some ill ask the question

    many thanks
     
  11. Rustbuster

    Rustbuster Paid Member Paid Member

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    These are the ones I bought (screenshot) but yours don’t look worn at all in your photo. They may have been wrong for your key if someone’s perhaps been in there before, or, a really good clean off of all the old grease and re-grease of all the moving parts sorts it as they can start to stick as the old grease loses its lubricity. That actually has worked for me in the past.
    IMG_2104.png
     
  12. Adder Forum Member

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    Morning folks,

    I’ve managed to sign up to Ali express and ordered a bunch of them so hopefully in a few weeks they will turn up and I can get on with it . I’ll let you know how I get on. Have a good weekend

    cheers
     
  13. Savagesam

    Savagesam Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    I had an issue with mine where my new lock set didn’t match my ce1 key but I had a spare barrel so nicked a couple of bits out of that to make the set work
     
  14. Rustbuster

    Rustbuster Paid Member Paid Member

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    Mine turned up pretty quickly so hopefully yours will do the same. Let us know how you get on?
     
  15. Adder Forum Member

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    Will do

    cheers
     
  16. Adder Forum Member

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    Afternoon folks ,

    so, everything has gone mostly ok . I nearly came unstuck regards the tiny ball bearing in the boot lock. I think it was mentioned in an earlier post but i forgot . Luckily it was still stuck with grease . Any how one key now fits all the locks thanks to all for the great advise .

    my problem is the boot lock. Because i didn’t take notice of what it was doing before hand im not sure whats what now. I’ll try to explain the best i can. There are 3 positions the lock can be turned to . IMG_0347.jpeg

    in this position the key is at a straight up and down position 12 and 6 o’clock if you will and is in a neutral position not operating any levers.

    IMG_0349.jpeg

    in this position the key is now turned 90 degrees 3 and 9 and is operating the central locking lever although, nothing is happening with the lock wether or not the Central locking lever is up ( as in photo ) or down if that makes sense?

    IMG_0348.jpeg

    Lastly in this position the key is at a 2 and 8 and it release the boot latch but I cannot remove the key itself unlike the two previous positions .

    hope you can follow what I am trying to say , as always I would like to know your thoughts, am I missing something? Was there something wrong before I had to bits ? Am I being a dummy ?

    Cheers
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2024 at 2:33 PM
  17. Adder Forum Member

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    Or, I thought these


    Position 1, I can push the lock In and remove the key with nothing happening

    IMG_0350.jpeg

    Position 2, I can push the lock in and remove the key with nothing happening

    IMG_0351.jpeg

    Position 3, I can now open the boot latch but the key cannot be removed

    IMG_0352.jpeg

    Hope this helps

    cheers
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2024 at 3:06 PM
  18. watercooled Forum Member

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    Location:
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    Is the central locking system working on the rear hatch ? just checked key on mine and have the following ;
    vertical key slot is locked ,horizontal slot is unlocked,then the third position is sort of 10 - 4 o'clock position which is unlocked which I think is the central locking function of the latch ? .
    It's a weird system never really checked it too much as I sorted my central locking issue when I found the broken detent on the locking servo arm as mentioned earlier on.
    Cheers.
     
  19. Adder Forum Member

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    Hello , yes the central locking seems fine , by the sound of it your lock is the same as mine in operation . I think the fact i cannot remove the key when opening the boot makes me wonder if its not a safety thing where by you cant accidentally lock your key in the boot because you cant remove out of the lock its self

    regards

    adder
     
  20. watercooled Forum Member

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    Yep think you are right ,I removed the detent as it was worn out in the area of the spring and ball bearing fitted so removed them and the servo worked fine after but don't remember about the key removal as it was a long time ago,cheers.
     

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