I've tried looking through quite a few 2.0 threads and am still confused about dizzy choices. What are the physical differences between the carb dizzy, 4 slot (2E style no advance) and late 1 slot no advance. What are the length, hole fitting size and gear drive differences? I have a dead 1.6 carb engine in a MK2 and want the cheapest easiest replacement rather than power and there are a lot more 1.8 /2L mk 3 engines on Ebay. cheers
the 2.0 dizzy hole is bigger as is the drive gear, so if say you wanted to run a 2.0 on kjet/carbs you would get a kjet/carb dizzy then fit a TSR or similar adaptor ring and swap a 2.0 dizzy gear over. In your case though a 2.0 dizzy wouldn't fit the block, plus it doesnt have any vacuum/advance mechanism inside so you're stuck with 1.6-1.8 carb or kjet dizzy. a kjet dizzy is a good upgrade especially combined with a gti cam, the 1.8 carb dizzy is near enough the same I doubt you would be able to tell the difference. The digifant dizzy is no good either as its got non of the advance stuff in it, but it will drop in. I dont have the exact diameters to hand though, if you need them hopefully someone else can chip in. however if its just the hall sender inside the dizzy thats gone you could probably get any 1.6-2.0 bosch dizzy and swap the internals over, just as long as its same outer casing fitment
I'll bet its the bearings that have gone. I have just replaced the dizzy on my mates 1595 mk2 driver for this reason Jon
yeah the 1.8 block is basically same as the mk2 1.8, but with a block breather on the front. trouble is with the breather you'll have nowhere for the mech fuel pump and so will need to wire up an electric one. also take care with the mk3 1.8 as some different pistons which lower the power. The AAM code is 75BHP, you want ABS, ACC and ADZ which are 90bhp
Cheers again, ended up with an ADZ so I'll put the carb head on and the clockwork dizzy and electric fuel pump. It has the ribbed belt alternator and pulleys still attached, do these fit ok and should I just leave them on do you think?
you could keep the adz head on there its probably the same if not better. 2 things if its a later MPI you'll have the injector holes to block, plus if you want to keep the 2e2 carb then you'll need to drill a hole for the coolant chanel. it works on mk2 gti heads so i dont see why it wouldnt work on the adz. or you could just swap the head I suppose the ribbed stuff will go in fine, the pas tensioning setup in particular much better design if you need it. if not it'll just unbolt. up to you if you want to keep it, I would do so for sure
Jonny you are a font of wisdom, thanks again for the advice It's an early-ish SPI engine so rather than muck about with manifolds etc I'll put the carb head on.
Well, got the ADZ in and running, fired first flick which was nice, on guessed ignition timing and a cheapo leccy fuel pump. Just not sure what to do about the rad bottom hose. I left the ADZ elbow on the thermostat housing and chopped up and old MK2 hose but it's not a good bodge. Do you think I should put the MK2 stat housing on the MK3 pump or does the MK3 bottom hose fit the MK2? Cheers
aye if you put a mk2 thermostat houisng on you can use a standard mk2 golf bottom hose to match the rad
Cheers Jonny you've been a massive help with this. Quick follow up question, it looks like you have to take the alternator mounting bracket off to get the stat housing out, would that be right?
you have enough access underneath with the alternator bracket fitted, but if any of the pas pump parts are still on there they'll have to come off first everything to the left: if you are actually using the pas setup you can unbolt and swing out of the way without crackign the fluid connections for this job, if not any of the pas bits that are left can be binned
