hello after removing and cleaning the pump, i poured oil from the top and rotated the shaft couple of times- is that the correct way for priming? i didn't plug the suction mesh at all and still only a drop or two came down from there so maybe it wasn't enough oil? does the oil have to fill the suction pipe too? now i will refill the engine only on wendsday, so will the pump not get dry again? i can still remove it and re-do if that's not the way.
When I did the pump on my 1.8 8v I poured oil into the pump from the top then submerged the end of the pick up pipe in a container I had put clean oil in then turned the pump via the shaft until oil came through the top, there is a step by step guide on you tube I found usefull, search for mk2 golf oil pump
and if- after topping oil from the top and fitting the pump- i crank the engine by hand after refitting the sump, won't it give the same result?
not really no, filling the engien doesnt fill the pump it just drops into the sump. best to prime it as above still the oil comes out the top then fit it. this is how i do them and no problems
Something I did before I turned over my newly built engine, even though I primed the pump before installation and replacing the sump, was I found a piece of 10mm diameter tube, roughly 230mm long. (10mm rod would do just as well) I then cut a slot in the end of it with an angle grinder, roughly 5-6mm deep. When I was sure I was ready for the 1st start I removed the dizzy, fixed my 'simulator' into the cordless drill and onto the oil pump drive shaft and proceeded to prime the block and head that way. Worked a treat! Refit the dizzy after, making sure its still in the correct position it was before you removed it! (I basically did it at the correctly 'timed' position) Replace clamp and screw. 1.6 and 1.8's, you'll be driving it in a clockwise direction. Just work it nice and slow, once the oil goes through you'll feel the resistance! That's it, not even 10 seconds work!
i primed mine in the method used above and also removed a blank from the oil filter housing and poured oil in there to fil the top of the pump and also having fresh oil in the filter too.
actually it's probably one of the controversialest subjects i know. i dismantled the sump and the pump again and did what mbuk2456 said, plugged the mesh with some vaseline, then disconnected the coil and started the engine until the oil light was gone.
Similar to Marty above I made this usefull little tool years ago for troublesome oil pumps p.s. sorry for the blurry images
An oldie, but a goodie... Currently looking into what's to be done on start up after an engines been apart and found this thread. Made a version of the slotted bar shown above from a cheapie 3/8 socket set extension bar and have already primed the oil pump as described. Will the pump now stay primed or does the oil drain back out eventually if left? Just to clarify something else said above also..., once it's obvious oil is passing through the pump (by feeling the increase in resistance), do you need to continue for a period to circulate it further or stop at that point? There's mention of filling the oil filter via the blanking plug on top of the filter housing, is that as straight forward as it seems?
it wont drain back out once primed, if you switch the ignition on just spin it up till the warning light goes out then you're good to go
Cheers - if I was making another I'd use a heftier extension bar... 3/8 feels a bit light weight and once resistance begins it stains a little and there's the feeling one or both of the pieces either side of the slot might snap off, it being brittle chrome vanadium. Did the job this time round, so can't complain. Spinning the oil pump beyond the point it seems to prime may also prime the oil filter. Can't say for sure though, but be interesting to know. I'd removed and refitted the blanking plug on the oil filter housing before any of this and nothing came out, after priming the pump oil came out quite forcibly.
