1.6EG "Heron" Help

Discussion in '8-valve' started by 8TEE2, Dec 31, 2012.

  1. 8TEE2 New Member

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    So i have acquired an EG to build out for my Jetta; but over here in the states i'm having a hard time finding info and parts for this euro only motor. i have been lucky enough to get a full stock spec head and stock spec pistons, and not i need to build out the remaining and i'm looking for help.

    What i'm looking for

    Oversized Valves (if avaliable)
    Lightwieght Valvetrain (if avaliable)
    Crankshaft (80mm Stroke, Small Journal - For a H-Block 1.7)
    Connecting Rods (136mm, 22mm Pin, Small Journal Ends, 48.9 ??) (audi rods with bolt?)

    if i cant find this stuff from any aftermarket vendors, then i will need to source an EG shortblock from somewhere in Europe, (not cheap)

    also, im wanting to build this engine with a high lift cam (288/306) im wondering at what point i will need to have valve reliefs cut into the pistons, or if any known aftermarket pistons with valve reliefs exist.

    thanks guys!

    pic of the Jetta and the parts for reference :)


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  2. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    More Parts are available over this way. Do Supertech or others not do valves for them? I'm not sure if 40mm inlets from later 1800 cars will work. Worth checking the lengths.

    With a cam over about 11mm you will need to pocket the pistons, and you'll need more compression to get the best from the cam, which exaggerates that problem.

    What are you building the engine for - street or competition? What made you want to go for the 1.6 - competition regs or just originality?
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2013
  3. 8TEE2 New Member

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    i can find valves anywhere, ive checked all the major valve manufacturers.

    This is not for regulation, ive always wanted to build out a EG, but it seems this is going to more difficult then it may be worth.
     
  4. mr hillclimber Club GTI Supporter and Sponsor

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    They're available in 40mm inlet's & 35mm exhaust's for the Heron head 1600's....I'll check availability later. Subject to the spec yr unlikely to need the bigger exhaust valves. If your running std injection & pistons I'd consider a tamer cam for street use...the c.r wont need to be so high and it'll run alot nicer on the injection.

    Car looks great! :thumbup:
     
  5. 8TEE2 New Member

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    Plan in my head (subject to change if i cant find everything)

    1.6 Heron Head
    Oversized Valves
    Upgraded Valve Springs (Techtonics)
    P&P + Gasket Match
    288 Cam (Techtonics)
    Lightweight Lifters/Retainers
    Lightweight Cam Gear (Techtonics)
    Lightweight Intermediate Pulley (Techtonics)
    -
    1.7 H-Block (Bored to 81mm)
    1.6 80mm Small Journal Crank - Knife-Edged+Balanced
    Upgraded Rods (Pauter is all i can find right now at $1k)
    Wossner 11:6:1 Pistons (81mm)
    -
    Weber 40s
    MegaSpark
    Techtonics Header
    2.5 Exhaust

    that's the plan, if not stock pistons, mild cam, and none of the lightweight goodies.

    and if you could check on those valves that would be awesome!!!

    and thanks for the compliment, this car is my pride and joy.
     
  6. mr hillclimber Club GTI Supporter and Sponsor

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    Yr welcome.

    A 2.5 exhaust will be too big really, I'll loose low and mid range power on an engine of your spec...a good 2" system won't cap it back much, or a 2-1/4 will be a good compromise subject to the final spec & power.

    I called my supplier yesterday but no reply...possible they're still on a Christmas/new year break...I'll try again next week.

    Those rods will be overkill...std are very strong and would be fine on your spec with decent rod bolts...or check out
    Scat rods...thou I'd save yr cash.

    Wossner are available off the shelf, but there are better forged pistons out there...and most will make what you want...JE or CP are two...others will as well...it's not just the pistons it's the ring packs to consider too.
     
  7. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    Rightly or wrongly I used to rev my eg on std rods to 8K. Knocked a few shells out (cheapish oil, I was young and poor..) but never failed a rod
     
  8. 8TEE2 New Member

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    i have brand new stock rods, just didn't want to use them as they are nut style instead of bolt. as for scat rods, i didn't see any for this application.

    and thanks for the heads up on exhaust sizes, i had that idea in my head but didnt think 2.5 was too big...

    some pics.

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  9. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    Mine used 36 chokes in 45dcoe's, and you are at the max of 34's in 40's, so top end revs arent going to be quite such an issue
     
  10. mr hillclimber Club GTI Supporter and Sponsor

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    Jon has hit the nail on the head....you wont need to rev it hard enough to have an issue with the std rods...put the nuts on the right way around though!!
     
  11. 8TEE2 New Member

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    what do you mean?

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    maybe my rods are different than the standard heron... as well we dont get the EG in the states.... but the bores\length is correct.
     
  12. TonyB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Maybe he means the plain bit should be facing down away from the rod, I havn't got a clue to be honest. All I was going to say was if you have any wories fit ARP bolts they will give you another safe 500 to 1000. RPM, that should be more than enough.

    Std VW rods are strong and don't normally break it's the bolts that stretch if anything. I understand that Std 1800 rods/bolts are good for about 7500 and I would have thought that the EG short rods could take a bit more. I've run on Std VW (2.0ltr) long rods for years with ARP bolts with no issues and the tell tale shows over 9000rpm! I wouldn't worry too much.

    Have you looked in to supervee and F3 stuff. That was generally based on the heron head design and I'm sure you would have some of those engines over in the states. It's getting expensive now in Europe due to historic racing but may be more affordable/available in the states. Do a search on here for F3 engines, there are a few good threads will all sorts of Heron related stuff (if you havn't already).
     
  13. mr hillclimber Club GTI Supporter and Sponsor

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    Unless they're peculiar to 1600 rods, those nuts look to be on the wrong way.

    Anyhow...40mm inlet & 35mm exhaust valves are available off the shelf...I'll PM you some details later.
     
  14. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    The main downside of the EG, (well two if you include the poor combustion chamber shape after fettling) is the piston weight. Those mutha's have a lot of metal at the top. Still rev for ever with a big cam, big carbs and a nice head
     
  15. 8TEE2 New Member

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    awesome!, just got paid so ill scoop them up when you send the info.
     
  16. 8TEE2 New Member

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    found some pics of a fully done up heron head... i need to figure out how they sealed those injection ports inside the head.. super clean

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  17. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    aluminium inserts in mine, turned to suit, maybe bored out first. topped with some liquid metal to finish. blended inside. those are monster ports, must be a 2L lump, mustnt it? IMHO maybe too big for 1600?. Mr Hillclimber is the man to comment here
     
  18. 8TEE2 New Member

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    need to find a machine shop to do mine :)

    just found a guy that has an old bertils/f3 motor he is parting out. i managed to grab the rods and crank from him.

    rods have been worked and have arp hardware, and the crank seems to have been balanced and lightened.

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  19. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    Was it a 1600 or 2.0 F3 lump? I'd have thought the head would have been the ideal bit to grab, assuming it's an 8v one?
     

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