Hey guys, Not sure if some of you saw my other tread about my engine tapping, turns out to be a hole in the exhuast near the engine (lets hope its not the gasket!). Anyway, I timed my 1.6 golf (in sig) according to the Haynes manual as follows: * Crank shaft pulley timing mark lined up to arrow on plastic covering, * Rotor arm pointing to cylinder 1 (on notch), * Flywheel '0' lined up to mark on inspection hole (gearbox end), * and; camshaft dot lined up to the top of the rocker cover (dot on the inside). Now I know this is correct, as everything works. The Haynes manual I used was the red cover (1081 I think). Now about the ignition timing; * the write up says to leave the vacuume pipe connected and * adjust the distrubutor cap and time it to 17degrees (ish). I tried this with a strobe gun and was very happy with the results. However my work friend pointed out that the specs in the same Haynes manual says that the ignition timing is 17ish degrees (with vacuume pipe disconnected) at 800(ish) rpm. So I tried this, * disconnected the vacuume pipe & blocked them. * Increased the rpm to 800(ish) [on the idle adjust on my carb], then adjusted the distrubuter with a strobe gun. * I then connected the vacuume pipe (which in turn increased the rpm - which I decreased with the idle adjust on my carb and returned it to approx 750rpm. I then test drove the car, and striaghtaway noticed the increase in power. Previously there was a small amount of lag, which is all gone now. The car drives very new now, I'm not complaining but wondering if this correct??
your work mate is wrong, as was I a while ago we both need new reading glasses The haynes clearly states on 1.05, 1.3 and 1.8 GTI engine set it with the vac pipe disconnected & blocked, on 1.6 & 1.8 carbs set it with vac pipe connected that is how you set it stock, what you have done is advance the ignition timing which will give you more power, as long as you dont advance it too far and making the engine pink/ping. Put decent 97ron fuel in it and you should be ok, but keep your ears open for any knocking/rattling noises!
I thought my work mate was wrong, but the Haynes manual spec states the ignition timing with the vacuume disconnected. Also I got hld of a Parkers manual, which says to remove the vacuume for single vacuume units, is mine a single vacuume unit? P.S: my exhaust is going in the front, so its hard to listen out for any rattles. hehe.
hmm haynes has conflicting information, near the top in the specs section it says the 1.6 RF needs to be disconnected GU carb models connected. yet futher down in the info on actually setting the ign timing it only says 1.0, 1.3 and 1.8 k-jet modles have the line disconnected. thing is though your engine code is EZ, so this might be the difference, i see haynes has no info at all for this engine code! However the VAG ElsaWin electronic service manual application says the vacuum hose should be connected, which tbh is the last word
Well, this is a scan of my haynes manual, and it clearly says the ignition timing is 17-19 degrees (with vacuume hose disconnected) at 700-800 rpm. But the write up for ignition timing says to disconnect the vaccume hose for 1.1 & 1.3L engines.
im lookin in chapter 1, it says 2 different things as I say. but the proper VAG manual tells you do do it connected, and I would believe that over the haynes but like I said, morte ign advance is good, as long as it doesnt pink!
I've played about with mine recently, timing it with/without the vac advance hose connected. When I first changed it to 'disconnected' setting, it seemed a bit 'keener' at low revs, which gave me the idea that this was right . But after a couple of days driving around like that (with no pinking noticed) I got the impression that it wasn't nearly as eager around/above 4K rpm. Changed it back and am much happier with it like this. You have a Weber though, don't you?, which could well make a difference. As John says, if it feels better and it doesn't pink, then .
ah my manual misses out the vital 'and EZ' part. if you read further down to the part where it tells you how to set up the timing it sais only the 1.0-1.3 and 1.8 GTI hoses should be disconnected. but again liek i said the actual VAG workshop manual tells you to leave it connected, and as we all know the haynes is full of lies
Yes you are corrrect, at lower revs the engine is more keener and willing to pull. Although the power is constant through out the rev range (up to 5000ish), whereas before at about 4000rpm the power was constant, but then at 4000rpm it would start more. Not sure if it has anything to do with the weber I have.
As said, I got hold of another manual, 'porters' (I think), and that says to remove the vaccume pipe & block for single vacuume units. I will get a scan of this tomorrow.
