I have a MK1 Campagin, and i wanted to go 2.0ltr, however i wanted to stick with a DX block and bore it and fit a 2.0ltr crank. now my question is can i use pistons from an Audi I5 5 cylinder NF Engine? they are 82.5 mm and have a 20mm wrist pin so would fit the DX rods, or am i best using the 2E pistons and bushing the wrist pin, as its 21mm on there. i know the Tall block is the easiest option, but i want the car to look original, not with a tall block installed. Regards
The Pistons I have were sold as 8v but appear to be 5cylinder, but only 4 lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
From what I can see they are 1 MM. Oversized versions http://www.vagcat.com/epc/find/?art=054107065H Now I've seen on the t4 forum some guys use 2e pistons in there i5 engines so I'm guessing it might work the other way too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The 5 cylinder piston is what's generally used...83.5mm will give you 1893cc with the std 86.4mm 1800 crank. You'll need an 85mm bore head gasket from Cometic to clear the raised 'D' section properly as the std 2ltr gasket has an 83.5mm bore..so all a bit tight. The other issue is trying to use the 2ltr crank...The pistons will protrude too much and will need decking to suit but will all again be a bit marginal...The shorter crown height 2ltr (3A?) piston is the better option in + 0.5mm oversize max or std 82.5mm and bore the 81mm DX block...1984cc with 82.5 or 2008cc with 83mm. A std ABF head gasket can then be used. 1900's (1870cc with an 38mm bore) are a nice compromise and work well.
There is only 16,5 mm height difference 220 > 236,5mm .... it would need a trained eye to spot it at first sight.... unless you look after it To keep things simple... use a 2E bottom end Also keep in mind DX - 144 mm rods in a 220 mm block vs 2E - 159 mm rods in a 236,5 mm block.... so there will be 1.5 mm difference in compression height
Yes we all agree , but there's some Nutters like me that like stuff to look original and go that bit further / more expensive / more difficult to do so I could easily get 200 bop from a turbo but want to keep my cars looking original/ period hence expensive Oettinger , GTi Engineering and Motorsport parts to get 200bhp from KR blocks with Kjet . Some of us just can't be taught reason when it comes to old Golfs lol
Oh true enough mate, but the old 2.0 still looks period correct. And if it gives up the ghost, can be replaced for peanuts. Compared to rebuilding a big cc 1.8 Base. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk
Oh and same here re turbos being cheating, hence the Tsr 2.0 going into my mk2, and 16v ally block 2.0 in my mk1! Daft buggers that we are Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk
I fully understand the `` Period correct`` and `` Original look``.... there is nothing wrong with, but it need to be placed into context .... an Oettinger engine should be original as with another crank it would be no longer be an Oettinger unit.... just another Vw engine with some nice Oettinger parts on it... Often i wonder why so many people go the hard way with a mix of parts from as many differnt engines ....while there is a replacement unit that is basically the same... cheap and easy
Hugo do you have any info about my Oettinger 2.0s VW 16v engine ? I sent a email to them last week but not sure if it went properly
Tbh its rare to get an answer...and that apply to many of these places.... even when you want to spend quite something.... Pm sent
Guess it goes back to the days when the 2l engine was not as available and cheap as it is now and it made sense to go down that road ie parts and time cheaper than a replacement engine which is not the case now
It's not just the height though it's the extra breather holes, the dizzy plate, and the fact the exhaust will rattle if it touches. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
