well it seems i might not be able to do this now coz i had a prang earlier in the year they dont want to touch a 22 yr old with no no claims [:^(] feck it. 139 it is then
People doing my conversion want 3K. This includes: Installation of engine and gearbox New oil and filter, new coolant, new spark plugs K&N filter Charge piping consiting of silicone hoses and metal pipes Supply in exchange, a new modified downpipe with heat wrap Map sensor Radiator fans DTA ECU Wiring loom Transport of vehicle to and from Stealth Racing for mapping Rolling road mapping Lubricant service after 5K If you break that down a bit, it's a feckin good price!! DTA alone costs 600 and mapping is 400! You have to source a few parts yourself, but I think it adds to the fun of it all. I've almost sourced all the bits now. If you want a detailed spec of what you need and costs, I'd be happy to let you know and help out. PM me. I would go 225 route. Do it once, do it right. When mapped you'd be looking at roughly 280bhp. I picked up my engine from eBay of all places, and all the parts are relatively easy to source.
But the TT225 or S3210 or 225 engines (or even Leon CupraR 225 - nice as the box is 2wd) have forged lower compression pistons and K04 Turbos. There are also other minor differences but i cant remember what they are
Hello, yeah saw that white mk2, but thats the 3.2, so didn't include that... The engine I have is brand new, still in packaging and never ever seen oil... unfortunetly, it does need money poured into it to build it up, which I certainly can't afford.... VW will buy it back if I don't sell it, so im pretty comfortable about seling it... Keep meaning to call Grant motorsport as i heard they want it...
But it does have 24v no?? Grant does the engines for VW cup, so im sure he would love brand spanking new spare blocks to build up to race spec.
For what it's worth: 225/210 lump. The internals are stronger and will run at standard brake all day long. Upping the perfomance of the 150/180 lumps will only increase stress on the engines and turbos and reduce life expectancy. And if all you want is a reasonably quick, reliable dub go for the K04'd lump. Plus, if you decide to play with it later you will reap better rewards without an internals upgrade over the lower output lump. Oh, and the large ports (in the head) appeared in the early 150 lumps fitted to the A3's IIRC. They give better top end performance at the expense of torque. Probably not what you're after.
thanks for your help guys and cheers Seizure. i think your right the 225 would have less strain. only problem is i rode my r1 yesterday.......i dont want to sell it oh well it was an informative post.....hehe
IIRC the Jabba IHI conversions on 150 engines do not change any internals. IIRC there's a few Ibiza owners runing like this no probs.
if i was you i would get the 225 its a stonger engine to start and has more tuning potention for the future but then again its up to what you can afford at the end of the day phone them now u know u wana get a price
You seen the rods & pins in a 210/225 motor? Have a look and then say you think its stronger. 210/225 only advantage as far as I can make out is the slightly lower CR pistons. (9:1 as opposed 9.5:1 from 150 motors)
As bill says, only difference on 210/225 is CR. 150/180 blocks are just as strong, Maurice reeves runs two as track cars, they produce around 360Bhp, and withstand track use! Why not start with the 150/180 engine then upgrade in the future. Upgrade to E05/IHI and lower CR pistons.
