Righty, got myself some 300 degree 16v cams and basically need to know how to time them into each other. I've bought some adjustable chain pulleys but need to knw how to set up the cams to each other before I go getting it on the rollers to have the timing set up on the vernier. I remember reading that you use 2 DTI's and a degree disk and it can be mocked up in a spare head on the bench. I have all the necessary info about the cams, i.e. intake/exhaust timing at 0 lift and at 50thou lift and the LDA etc. Someone gotta know, as google has failed to turn up anything [:^(]
I am no expert - as my ideas will surely point out - but on a VW 16v I would have thought that a vernier cam belt pulley to adjust the exhaust timing and one vernier chain pulley would be needed to adjust the inlet and inter-cam timing correctly. I can't see the point in two adjustable chain gears? I would adjust the exhaust cam to listed specs then the inlet with the exhaust cam fixed in its timed position. Does that help or am I an idiot for having an opinion?
Mart, when I tried the Schricks in mine, Vince said to set them up properly the head would need to be 'on the bench' using a method similar to what you're written in your post, I presume.. Only thought that I have is that these cars with big cams that have a smooth idle and good torque/power figures, must have these internal adjustable cam gear(s), to reduce the overlap of the cams...
hi mart . i reckon your gonna need a fair bit of rollin road time to get the best out of them cams . are you going k jet or itb , carbs . paul h
Looked into these myself Best bet would be TB's plus the solid lifter head to make best use. Safer to use ARP internals for extended revs or if the budget allows forged/lightened internals Baffled sump and windage plate is a must Power will be between 5500-8800..........nice for track use Ian
Will be going carbs on these, and then itb's at a later date if funds allow, which probably will happen My internals ahve been fully lightened and balanced, just need to fit my arp rod bolts when they arrive so that side of things should be ok. I know alot of people have said that you only need 1 of these internal pulleys, but having spoken to Kent the reason they come in pairs is to allow the use of lairy cams which may need more than the adjustment you can get from 1 alone. Once the cams are set in the head then it's just a matter of a session on the rollers to set up the external vernier, but its the initial cam setting that I'm not too sure of. Think I'll be taking it to Tommy's or Vince's(llandillo) to have it set, but will make sure I'm there to see whats involved Also on the same note, the cams have come without the woodruff keyway in them, just like the late ABF cams, so the pulleys will have to be shrunk on somewhere near the originals which should be fun
A word of warning if you have the adjustable cam wheels from Kent - the pair that I had (which were fitted to a set of 296 duration cams) caused me several issues which has made me never use Kent stuff again. Firstly one of the cam wheels turned out not to have the centre hole machined true, ie it wasnt in the middle of the gear. This streched the intercam chain and made it rattle like a 'diesel' which carried on until the cams were spinning fast enough for the chain to be constantly under tension Secondly, even though the allen bolts that hold the cam wheel in postion were tightened according to the instrucions, within 2k miles or so, 3 out of the four on one wheel came out, dropped into the head (and altered the cam timing) I wont go into my opinions of the cam duration, as you are obviously aware of what you have and the effects, but I will say that they were fun for all of 5 minutes, the best bit coming when I went past GVK like he was standing once they came on cam at a airfield day
lol, yeah I know what ya mean. Regarding the pulleys, I've heard the same from other people about the bolts coming loose, but I have a back up plan which hasn't come from kent......spring washers and loctite work wonders together once things are set up. Not heard about them being machined off set though. May have been a one off but I'll lathe test them on the cams first to make sure. Duration.....yeah I thought long and hard, well........ until I had a blast in a car with a similar spec to what i'm doing. I've heard all sorts of stuff, from non-existent idle to coming on cam real late, but from 1st hand experince of 300 degree schricks in an old race engine they aren't that bad. Everything was setup well and seemed to do the job. I won;t be using the car as a daily driver, the engine will be being dropped into my mk1 and be used for blatting about when I need to put a smile back on my face Come on though, who knows how to time these in properly, someone must know
Got a golf mag somewhere which explains this,remember something like "Ive never seen cams perform better than at 0deg lift" or summink like that Il look it out if you get stuck
Going from my thread on Schrick cam timing, surely if the cams are a matched pair then they shouldnt need an internal vernier....Just fit as per a set of standard cams.. Just a normal vernier to set equal lift on overlap, taking into account how far the head may have been skimmed etc
Read it again Chris I haven't any keyways so the pulleys will have to be set from scratch So setting them up might be a pain in the ass, think it's sorted now though, but will need to go solid lifter [:^(]
