abs light should come on still, looks liek someone has broken the bulb to get it thru an mot without fixing the problem! 2nd fault is the crank sensor which would definitely cause a missfire, 1st wont help if ecu temp sender is bust. what you need to do now is clear all those codes, take it for a drive then recheck and see if any come back worth actually looking at the car though, make sure crank sensor wire looks ok and check the wiring to the ecu temp sensor as well as the sensor ground to the ring terminals on the side of the head
Jonny, I replaced the crank sensor a few weeks ago. (If you mean the one behind the front engine mount). Its been suggested to me the "cylinder 1 recognition sensor" is on the hall sender attached to the dizzy. I replaced the dizzy a few months ago with a breakeryard special, perhaps I should have gone with new? I'll do as you suggest, and clear the codes, then see what happens.
ah yes you might be right there, if the dizzy needed replaced this could be why you have the fault code showing up if you didnt reset it afterwards. try disconnecting the hall sensor altogether and drive the car, with mine unplugged the car drives fine just a bit more 'raw', certainly no problems with missfire and plenty of power. that'll rule the dizzy in/out for you anyway.
Unplugged hall sensor and it still wont rev over 4500 rpm, guess that means the hall sensor and dizzy are not the cause of rev probs? I lashed out on a new lambda, gotta try something, next step fit that, after I clear codes on vag-com and see what happens.
Exhaust is good, as far as I know, It passed the MOT in march OK, I had the cat checked and thats OK. Going to have a go at fitting new lambda tomorrow, and clear vag codes.
