not the block chris. the head m8 . to keep a valver buzzing the springs are vital .even more so with high rpm . paul
Chris on the valves idea- I had in proper racer styleee all my valve springs checked & then small shim jobbies fitted that take account of the small bit of valve seat resession when lapping in valves on a used head. Bit OTT for mine really but might be worth you consdiering if your head ever does come off. Edited by: iguana
Good idea - infact if you get a leakdown tester, you can pressurise the cylinder on compression with an air valve that screws into the plug hole and an air ompressor, and if you listen down the inlet tract, you can hear air getting past the dodgy valve (if there is one) Rob
Chris, Could this be down to heat building up on the dyno. As you know you should get a variation during cam timing changes. This could be masked as the heat is building up on each run. The map you have in the ecu may need some adjustment slightly more sdvance at high load sites, if you have a map sensor, is it set with the correct factor?
Maybe it's all in the mapping. Graham wouldn't have even looked at the map when he was working on the cam timing. Has gary not still got the graphs with ian's car and Chris' still on his website? Maybe get the car mapped somewhere else just to see. It's not very well mapped at low revs anyway in my opinion. The cams were supplied by Bill and the part numbers are on the shafts between the lobes. Easy to check No individual chain verniers on it either. I remember when i bought the head TSR were having problems with broken valve springs. Mine were never a problem but i know they were supplied to TSR by GSF Cr@p springs and 11.5mm lift might not be so good.
I was going to get the mapping looked at in the next couple of months Matt. If not to gain anything power wise, then maybe a little more economy on part throttle.. Im going to contact "Crediton Motorsport" about some wheels too
Mapping adjustments are very simple. Just make sure you save the base map. I would look at you timing at high speed and load sites. Lap top, dta software and comms lead........
Cheers Phil... Graham at TSR has already found a discrepancy between the DTA ignition figures that you input into the map (in degrees BTDC) & what is happening real world (timing gun & Bosch machine), so maybe there is some scope there.. Going to see about another mapping session, possibly with a 276 inlet cam... Best I fix the Clutch first..Waiting for the stealers to phone about my flywheel bolts!
Chris I would be carefull reading/comparing the base map this way, as other factors such as inlet temp, coolant temp manifold pressure may have varied timing in the base map. So what you see on the base map may be corrected for the above reasons.
hey thing is do crediton motorsport "know what matt wants"? ill ask the chap at CPL where we had the integra mapped if he wants to have a go he says he has done DTA before and has a state of the art dynodynamics rolling road, not you average wheels of steel,,,,,,
I think you should follow ollies advice before you do anything else. That rolling road he's talking about sounds like an awesome bit of kit. I think he said something along the lines of "it makes the Stealth rollers look prehistoric". Thats what i would want
You sure? I know Ian asked me about them.. cos my Jetta ran adjustable cam to get cam to cam timing and it made it better. Want power, need more CR & cams, BUT how far do you want to go on cams before having to go solid lifter.
DTA timing per map will be spot on... However... the relative to TDC position on the trigger wheel may not be if a difference has been seen. (wasted spark also for Bosch timing gun) - If the trigger wheel is not fitted as per the map setting (adjustable) then it may even hit maximum advance threshold before its made maximum power on the mapping. I changed a customers trigger wheel after a self fit as when mapping it dialing stupid advance made no difference to anything.. Trigger wgheel ref point needs to be minimum +10 degrees more than the advance you want to run from the engine. (36-1 wheel, 10 degree/tooth) Worth checking before getting remapped. (trigger point is trailing edge of 1st tooth after missing one as ref point)-relative to TDC I ran 50 degrees advance on the Jetta... and was on the limit, running 60 degree BTDC on the trigger. 90 degree would be sound I think.
Bill, the wheel was fitted by myself exactly to your instructions and i even phoned you at the time just to be 100% sure. I think you're spot on with the compression/cams idea. Chris might aswell get on with it now rather than messing with other things. It's still a totally standard bottom end anyway. I've just built a 1.9 for my brother and i think Chris can easily carry out the engine work himself. It's a new bottom end he's working on, piece of p1ss if you ask me
In time I was thinking of ARP bolts Matt, just so it all holds together.. Add to that a baffled sump/windage tray & new cam/cams to improve its track "revviness"..& a remap at Mikeanics perhaps or where Justin had the 'Teg done?? Does anyone have any suggestions to alternatives from my 268/276 cams to extend the rev range to 7500rpm (currently peaks @ 6800) no matter how you swing the cam timing. I was thinking 276/276 but interested to hear anyones thoughts...
You have 200hp already - thats pretty good. To get more will really start to cost you and contrary to what has been said above, its not an easy job, you have to know what your doing from here on in or employ someone who does. You have to choose soild or hyro lifter to decide what cams to go for. Check out the kent, piper, Cat, schrick websites for specs - pretty obvious which are more fruity than what you have (which are mid-mild cams IMO). Cost implication and also needing to warm engine up every time you use it with solids. And having to setup with shims - need to know what you are doing. Wilder cams usually have more lift and it would be beneficial to have increased CR for them - so you start to run out of piston clearance, need to do dummy build with soft springs etc and get measurements for pocketing the pistons. Basically you are talking about a lot of work - which seems daft to me with a new engine. Why do you want more power ? how much more ? is it worth the hassle ? For more power, it would be cheaper to sell your base engine, keep TB's etc and buy a complete ready to roll engine in higher spec - be happy to have a chat about this sometime with you if you want to do this Rob
I hear what you are saying Rob.... I should be satisfied!! Im not really bothered about more power as such, just to extend the range a bit although any more is always welcome! Given that the bottom end is nearly new I dont really want to perform any major surgery on it (lighten/balance etc) for now, & buying a higher spec motor is out of budget with an Oz holiday later this year!! The engine is lovely & flexible & strong as it is so im loathed to pull it apart.. Im just investigating what im likely to gain with just going a bit hotter on the cam front whilst sticking hydraulic..if as you say, the current Schricks are mildish! Cheers for your wisdom so far Rob, I may pick your brains in the future!!
