16v variable runner intake manifold

Discussion in '16-valve' started by Brian.G, Nov 23, 2013.

  1. Brian.G

    Brian.G Forum Member

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    Got the above patterns almost finished yesterday evening so they will get poured tomorrow eve. Made up a facemill this evening.
    Of all the things Ive cast I never had a right facemill, I have a head skimming head, but thats a pig.
    Normally Id walk all about the flange face with a 10/12mm cutter to flatten it - this is hell on cutters as you only use the bottom 1mm, and its also slow, as you can imagine.
    So a while back I bought a facemill arbor - I had intended buying a facemill too, but these are 200euro. I was going to then go with a version made in China for 40euro - BUT the shipping is 6 weeks!! So, I just made one instead. It holds a single seco carbide insert - grand for facing which is all Ill be doing with it.

    These pictures are a bit grainy and I managed not to take a shot of the finished insert installed but Ill take one tomorrow eve when skimming the flange with it,

    Bit of En24, and my 50yr old 40euro ''for non serious work'' lathe,

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    Boring, the boring bar is actually worth three times what the lathe is worth lol

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    Slotted for the drive dogs on cnc,

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    Machining the pocket for the insert - angles are crazy here - required to give clearance in rake/clearance angles - the seco inserts(WNMG 433-M5 TX150) are square edge, triangular, but wont go into detail explaining here as the project is a manifold, and not how to make cutter heads :o

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    The insert gets held in with a 12.9 m5 bolt and nut thats pretty much it,

    (Picture tomorrow eve)

    Test facing on some 6082,

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    Very happy with surface finish - hit it with 1mm depth of cut, 3.5k rpm, and about 120mm per minute, and no animals were injured in the process so Im going to stamp those feeds/speeds onto the body and wh0,re it out for forever more.

    Back on topic//

    Brian,
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2014
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  2. Brian.G

    Brian.G Forum Member

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    Ed, few questions if you dont mind!

    What throttle body does Jenvee run,
    How many small bore vac tappings are currently onto your inlet,
    Are you running an ISV,
    And are you tapped onto the oem size barb for the brake servo,
    What type injectors should I get - possibly off something vw (read - affordable - will need 8, 4 for either manifold setup)

    Will update this later,

    Thanks Ed,

    Brian,
     
  3. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    I have loads of 20vt injectors amongst others if they are any good to you i will post them :)
     
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  4. Brian.G

    Brian.G Forum Member

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    Wow thats super good of you. TBH, I haven't a clue which ones I need so we'll have to wait and see what the boss says lol
    Ill need a pic of them as I was kinda working of the 8v digis until now if he does want those,
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2013
  5. EZ does it Forum Member

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    This is great, keep up the good work!
     
  6. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    Very confident they are same kinda fitment but do confirm with Boss first :)
     
  7. tshirt2k

    tshirt2k Forum Junkie

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    I think it uses standard ABF TB and injector pack.
     
  8. Riley

    Riley Forum Addict

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    Superb stuff. :thumbup: Pretty sure I have some PB and PG injectors knocking about if you need them. Give me a shout if so.

    Neil.
     
  9. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    Brian, I have been out some 5000miles away from this place so my response timing has been a bit sporadic.
    I have responded in red.

     
  10. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    For 20vT jobs, EV6 386cc BAM would be ideal.
     
  11. Tristan

    Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

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    Brian , do you want a loan of my mk2 for seeing how stuff fits the bay?
     
  12. Brian.G

    Brian.G Forum Member

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    Tristan, should be ok I think'!


    To update this, went out and bought an abf engine for mocking this up on - safer that way and will ensure everything fits when I arrive over to Ed!

    Will update this over the next few days with some photos of current progress:thumbup:

    Brian,
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2014
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  13. lufbramatt Forum Member

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    Any more progress on this Brian?
     
  14. G60Dub

    G60Dub Forum Member

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    :thumbup:
     
  15. Brian.G

    Brian.G Forum Member

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    Yes yes yes! FINALLY got the bits I was waiting for. The weather played hell with shipping times as some of you probably know too so anything I ordered before christmas is only showing now.

    I got the rail, Ed, which side do you want the fuel pipes? Cam wheel side, or flywheel side?

    [​IMG]

    Thread milling bit showed up too :thumbup:

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    More later on a better camera!

    Brian,
     
  16. tshirt2k

    tshirt2k Forum Junkie

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    Fuel pipes on them are usually on the cam wheel side. Same side as the standard car.
     
  17. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    On both my sets, the fuel rails have the lines towards the FEAD ( Front End Accessory Drive) to make swaps easy with the OE plenum system during development.

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    So yes please on the Cam side ( FEAD side) :thumbup:
     
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  18. Brian.G

    Brian.G Forum Member

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    @ Cerips, yes, and thought I replied? Will check again. That Intake is bulky + a few other reasons I have forgotten:o BUT, thanks for keeping the head ticking all the same.

    Ok, so thats the side I was thinking they would be on but wasnt sure where Ed had them coming up - thanks Ed.

    In the meantime, onto the first 2-1 runner. Im only going to explain/show one of these where anything needs explaining to save time. They are both more or less the same story.

    Ill still explain the process a little bit as I just cannot seem to be able not_to lol

    The finished pattern as you saw before in thread, filled half way up with sand in lower box, at the right, you can see the sand brought up to the correct parting line height @ radius.

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    The top box is fitted and filled and removed, and the pattern removed and the cores installed and the gate raked in on the right,

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    This method of gating is terrible practice and Ideally the part needs 3 gates off a full length runner and two risers but since it is not a 'production part' as such, and just a proto Im doing it quick and dirty. You would do all of that if you wanted to make many - mounting them to a parting plate to save raking down to the parting line every time by eye.

    ANYWAYS, thats not important right now but I feel its nice to show where and how parts come about all the same.

    The teapot, nice and cosy, I pour LM25 @ 690'C. I made the smelter a long time ago with the intent of making a proper small one in time, its still works fine so I didnt ever bother. lol

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    Poured and cracked open after 5min, shine looks good so I was pretty sure the part was sound. If the part is dull when you open mould it is a sign the metal is too hot, or that you have an incomplete pour due to lacking head pressure. Luckily I scraped by with this with no risers and a shoddy gate.

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    And here we have it - you have to cool part right away or otherwise the cores get harder and harder if you dont and then need to be hacked out.

    Shots are exactly as is with no parting flash removed - this is a whole operation by itself in a casting plant.

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    The outer flanges are poured as one long flange and will get milled apart once the machining begins. It is better to pour something like this in one go and cut apart later because this way you have less turbulence and possible cold fronts within the mould at time of pouring.

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    End view, showing draft angle with gets machined away/flat,

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    A poor shot of top, things are still pretty hot here so it plays with the camera a bit,

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    The detail were both runners meet, corebox detail now transferred to the metal, shot also showing hump for injector bore -

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    LM25 has great fluidity in thin areas as below,

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    And the corebox that was used to create said area,

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    The other part is the same as the above more or less, so I wont bother showing that. Up next is the machining of both lower pairs and the pattern for the bend sections up to the plenum. That is all pretty fast and straightforward as all 4 runners are designed to be the same so one pattern does all four.

    I have chosen to actuate the 4 vertical butterflies with toothed rubber belts with Kevlar reinforcements. It is the simplest, strongest, and lightest way to actuate all 4.

    These should be here from Bearing Boys Uk tomorrow(excellent company, check them out)

    Brian,
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2014
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  19. Brian.G

    Brian.G Forum Member

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    Got the ''twins'' partially machined, jigging the pair was a bit of a bear and took a while. I have not yet found a pair of vices I like so I either make jigs, or use clamps. Sadly these dont bide well with either but I got there.

    The first jig up with fresh cast parts is the most important - if its wrong you miss every other surface you want to machine, or need material at later on in machining.

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    The DIY cutter block/shell mill seen earlier skimmed the head surface nicely in 3 passes, all tooling is solid carbide so no coolant and loads of feed = less mess.

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    Because I dont have an abf head coolant flange I decided to machine the perimeter to gasket perimeter size to save any issues when it comes to fitting in the UK. I have the gasket pretty accurately drawn for ages so it was fast to mill off .5mm/1mm all round edge,

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    The holes also got drilled/milled,

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    Also sized ports just incase they were undersize from shrinkage, they were pretty bang on and it was either away from it .3mm, or cutting it .4mm in spots so they are ok. Ill blend a little with a sanding drum when done anyway,

    [​IMG]

    The twins then got mounted to a spare abf head I had here to do the injector bosses and the 8 openings for the 4 runner de-activation butterflies, I ran out of bolts so had to use threaded dowels for some but they all went in!(swear it was made for it!)

    [​IMG]

    Machining the bosses - not sure yet how Ill mount the injector boses so I just machined a 20mm hole with a 22mm counterbore to hold polymer insert. Ill probably make these from PEEK and O-ring them in. I have to look at a PEEK datasheet yet but I think that will do. I could have used digi inserts, but they cost money, and would probably have to come from UK. Plus, I dont really like them as I see to fail hard in removing them ever if the need arose. One crazy thing with the digi injector inserts is that sometimes they find their way into the crucible if Im melting scrap heads. They float to the top and come out perfect again after 20min @ 700 degrees:o

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    CLOSER PLEASE

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    Ok then lol

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    Thats pretty much how it sits at the minute,

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    Ill try get a shot in the next post looking into runner, tis grand,

    Brian,
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2014
  20. LUPOCHARGED

    LUPOCHARGED Paid Member Paid Member

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    Excellent read so far. Photos tell a story. I am putting my name down for a pair when production starts:)
     

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