how easy is it guys? the only threads i can find have dead pics :/ my mate has 3 16v engines im sure i can buy a wur off him where do people plumb the vac into? is it a bolt on jobbie? and do i set it up with a gas flow analyzer like the 16v in the guide?
You'll need a Wideband Lambda to set it up under load at WOT. Gas analysers are only any good for idle setting. You'll ideally need a set of pressure gauges to set the pressures whilst playng around with the WUR/control pressure settings (4mm allen ket under the brass cap on the back of the 16v WUR). Good if you can get it to work. Not really worth it with a std engine though.. Ideal if you have a few mods etc.
I did this years ago when I had an EV 8v thing. It was done to add extra fuel when at WOT. It seemed to work but messed up the low down response as the flap adjustment have to be compromised. The cold start was also richer with this WUR. As it is much more bulky the original position may only be used if you use one locating bolt. Sorry back then I only had a early gtech pro so cannot give a more informed answer regarding lambda and torque, just that the car could tehn achieve 15.7secs in a 1/4 mile @ 88mph, vs 16.0secs@86mph w/o this mod. Still no 16v beater but back then I would give them a go...lol.
ahh right thats interesting, i was looking for a 150+bhp road car on k-jet to be honest so a fair amount of head work and balancing the bottom with a 280+cam would it be of benefit to me? or would it ruin my low rpm response? also regards to the lambda, would that be the same as the one they stick up the exhaust with the gas flow analyzer?
did you think about to megasquirt it? there is a lot of info on here about that, a lot of test has done and it works well
i have indeed thought about MS and my mate keeps telling me to mega squirt it on ITBs! (lots of money aye!) if i were to mega squirt it i would get a PB dizzy and have some 24mm-22mm threaded inserts made up other than that i cant really think of much else that needs changing bar: fuel rail made or bought, fuel pressure reg? (not sure if i can use the kjet one?) fuel lines not a problem. would i need any other sensors? (like crank?) or could i use the hall sender in the PB dizzy? also if i were to go 2.0l block i would look at one with a crank sensor (AGG) but then would i need a dizzy adapter and how much are they? (didnt see any for sale anywhere last night after about an hour searching online)
My personal thoughts are you are wasting your time to attempt to chase 150 bhp, whp, or whatever on an 8v 1800 engine. K-Jet with it's mechanical spark advance curve only makes it a more difficult challenge. Mind a disscussion along this path that is going on in racer66's thread. Not that this will result in a "150bhp" engine but you would gain much know-how attempting to integrate a standalone to the vehicle then deliver a calibration, than to waste significant funds chasing power values on a 1.8 litre DX engine. If you skillful perhaps you can look into the MS route and or 2.0 bottom end or even ABF power. With a SEM fitted you can make significant changes to hardware and change the calibration to suit very easily. By the way insurance will rise significantly regardless, unless you are naughty and do not say. 150PS in a 1.8 requires a fair amount of improvements to affect VE, parasitic loss and combustion efficiency. Think it still makes sense to spend on this engine or just bin it and get something in there that starts from 150PS in std form. 250 vs 2500 comes to mind!
good points toyotec. i think my best path in that case will be: (baring in mind im going for a gradual approach) flow the DX head myself MS the DX, with the necessarily parts. would i need anything else other than a PB dizzy extra? understandable about the fueling side its just what sensors i need to run MS? (ill be looking at MS1 ver3) 2L block (would this be easier to do at the same time as the MS due to a crank pos sensor on the AGG? or is it better to go for a different block?) then later on engine swap to ABF and reconfigure my previous MS system? would that work?
awesome mate chees for the info, one last question what do you mean by MAT sensor? typo? because youve got me there... haha
quite a lot of the bits you need can be had from digi mk2, like the fuel rail, injector inserts that kind of thing then just find whatever std bosch injectors you need to match the rest of the hardware. might be easier to get a 2.0 8v head of some kind though, then you can fit a TPS equipped tb more easily from MK3 GTI 8v/16v. I believe the later AGG/ADY have a different fuel rail which uses normal bosch injectors too which would be helpful for you on your quest, then keep reading thru toyos thread on how to make the last tweaks for the ms
so ill need a TB with a TPS.. just read that i thought the kjet head (mine) had 24mm cups so i cant fit the 22mm cups from a digi?
I've got a Kjet Scirocco converted to Megasquirt. The inserts swapped fine, and the Fuel rail is from an audi A4 8v. There are other things to consider, and it's not a quick job, but the results are worth it, IMO> If you want 150bhp from an 8v in a road car spec, go 2.0 X-Flow, or you'll have to push the spec a lot higher, and make it less of a road car, more of a track / weekend toy.
cheers for the advice guys Mike gt any details on your Build? could you give me the specs of everything you needed to do the MS setup? cheers edit: what TB did you use and what sensors did you use (and where did you fit them)
i read through before posting, but somehow managed to miss Mikes scrapyard shopping list! cheers toyotec
