How do all. Does anyone have the specs handy for the 3A/2E lumps by any chance? Things such as bore/stroke/compression ratio/rod lengths etc etc. Cheers, Neil.
Cheers lads Ok, a pretty decisive next question...Will a g60 head bolt onto either of these no problem? The 3A is looking the favourite with being a short block fitment wise.
Either of them should work, I'd think. a G60 head is essentially the same shape as a PB head, with bigger ports, and some higher spec valves (maybe other components too) to cope with the heat)
Aye, sodium filled valves Mike and the ports are more oval on the G60 Hence it would be better to stick with the G60 head/exhaust and inlet manifolds ideally. As you can probably guess im thinking about 2.0 8v G60. Initially my thoughts are that the obvious things needed are: 3a bottom end. Needs drilling for charger oil return? Compression dropping via custom pistons, or other method? Im sure they have a black plastic breather housing on the front of the block? Block it off? Pretty much bolt all my g60 stuff to the block? Pullys should fit? Unsure on dizzy and knock sensor? Unsure on clutch/flywheel? And the obvious chip/remap. Anything obvious ive forgotten there, or anything people can add to the "?" The current standard lump is just over 200, and 180 something lbsft and its 'alright' but im getting bored trying to find bits for the mk1 so i need a project. Would be good to build a block ready to throw all my bits onto, maybe even find another g60 head to self port etc as i know that they are a massive restriction on these things. Neil.
you could drill the sump and get a fitting to suit. dropping CR depends on pocket depth, custom pistons wont come cheap as for breather its personal preference, i like to use them, some dont. AFAIK all G60 stuff should fit no problem. Pulleys should fit ok, never had any problems when going 2l in the past, altho never had a g60. dizzy should fit, i think its on the tall blocks that need it changing or the adapter ring. keep you clutch and flywheel chip and remap im sure a specialist will be able to help.
drilling for return is no problem, theres a flat area on the block where the g60 block is drilled, just drill and tap it and your done. I drilled the abf, should be the same. its dead easy, dip bit in grease before you start if your not pulling sump, it'll hold all the swarf on the bit. I think the 2e pistons look better as the pistons have a nice dish as standard and help with chamber shape,(cant remember 3a pistons) that and a second head gasket if your on a budget! I have to say, although different, i felt the turbo pistons i got for the 16v g60 dropped the cr too much for the g-lader. something to keep in mind, mine were 8.5:1. if I was doing it again ide go for 9:1 or a touch higher perhaps. it would save running the charger at higher rpm to account for the lower cr ratio. 2e or g60 dissy will do fine, when i say fine i mean they have the correct number of windows, you do need to do a bit of swapping of gears/body for the tall block, i think. use the g60 knock sensor, as the piston skirt length is pretty much the same. you will need the g60 frost plug though as the sender sits on approx 20mm out on an extension, unlike others that are directly bolted to the block. I' m not sure what isv you'll need, trial and error i guess. I would tig up the rear charger bracket to get the flange flat and then skim it, bore it and fit a barb fitting in it in order to get a hose on there to vent to catch can or breather. I wouldn't like the idea of letting the cam cover breather do all the work, may interfere with oil flow to sump from head(blow by pressure)or seals/etc, but thats just my 02c! Its going to be nice, the torque will be eye opening, best of luck! edit, looking at the charts the 2e has more piston dish but the pins are a different diameter so using 2e pistons in the 3a block will get messy as rods need a rebush..etc.., rod bushes cost me 50euro here, and 50 to rebore(different project). so your eating into what you could be spending on aftermarket pistons and plus you get new rings too. just looking at invoices here, it cost me 600dollars to have 4 16v turbo pistons shipped to my door from the states, they were wossners, couldent get them local at the time. expensive, but they do save messing and you can pick your preffered cr.
Buy a 3a bottom end drop the bits into a g60 block, bore it to take 9:1 comp pistons. That way you get a fresh bored block and also the extra cooling around No1 cylinder with the g60 block, and stay 1984cc, then you dont have to mess around drilling or blocking off breathers. Depending what pistons you use you will be able to keep the oil squirters. Not to say the 3a wont work with the above mentioned by brian.g
could try find a 2L T4 van engine.. CR 8.8:1 as standard and has 24mm gudgeon pins (21 on tall block 22 on g60). makes extra cc's with longer stroke (95.5mm 1900 diesel crank) rather than larger bore of 2e/3a which might kill revs over 6k.. think drunkenalan is runnin said crank in a 2e so hed know
i have to say, and i like torture, but this has to be the easiest way, swapping the 3a pistons in, ? job done for 100 quid more or less?
indeed! looks like a cheap way to 8:1 CR.. 2mm skim off the pistons and your there. not sure how much use 3a pistons are gunna be whatever block your using.. good for dropping CR on 16vt. but as i understand its the extra cc in the 16v head that drops the CR, not the pistons
Cheers for the superb input lads There's definately nothing wrong with my current 1800 block, ill come back to that later... As i have seen this thread which is pretty much exactly what i was thinking! But reading through it makes me wonder if its worth it until i do maybe have problems with mine... This was just an idea, to possibly take further...but after seeing the rr graph and the work involved, its definately just an idea for now until at least any further idea's such as possible performance after head work/cam are thrown into the equation. Note:The graphs below are opposite ways round for some reason, clutch power at top on first, and at bottom on mine. Any thoughts on these? The graph for the 2.0 8v g60 from that thread. And my current 1800 8v g60.
at a quick glance i dont know if he fitted a smaller charger pulley to make up for increased displacement..could be a factor. the diameter of his 4 branch looks huge also im also wondering if the p+p was of any benefit, a polish yes, but maybe it was ported too much which would kill torque but increase hp but the nature of the engine limits power at higher rpm, but again, low down is where you want the power in this type of build, well i would anyway. for the gain he got i think if he did just a straight 2.0 swap minus the cool shiney bits he may have been as well off. at the end of the day all that your changing is the cc in respect to bore diameter, torque will be on the up but i wouldent expect mindblowing results. ill have a good read of it in the in the morning and see whats what,just gave it a 20second skim there, ive a mk2 to tend to at the mo, its never ending... meant to say looking at graph, your g pulls well!
half way down this post http://www.dubforce.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=14892&st=50&p=114709&#entry114709 there is a 1984cc golf g60, makes around 270hp at 6700rpm running a 70mm pulley.theres specs on there for it somewhere.
