2 pack laquer at home - now with flatting trouble!!!

hahaha ar wow, that website and photos is where i work, the lads on the top right of the front page are tony and steve, ar wow didnt know someone made a site like that of them. Small world aye, changed a lot since them photos were taken.


yep paint will stick fine so long as its keyed properly, with 1200 wet and dry scratches it will be well keyed.
I think your getting confused with bascoats, if you leave the base standing for too long laquer wont stick to it, you should be laquering the based pannel around 5 mins after you apllied the last coat. Hes already laquered it up, all hell need to do is flat it/ or key it if he were to want to paint it again.

But as pigbaldder said 4 coats is plenty of laquer, your only meant to put 2 on so youve doubled the manufactures specified amount.

 

in my painting days we used grey scotchies and pannel wire to scuff the area needed laquer and when blending or blowing out you need to go into other pannels which could have been untouched from the day it was bought,in other words yes you can do it and it will stick ok if your prep is good and as pete says 2 coats is ample i always applied 1st coat same speed as colour then second coat slower but not slow inuf for the tide to come in and got good results

 

Apologies, yes that sounds about right - I'm new to this area too! So basically, clearcoat will stick to:

- dried clearcoat that's been 'keyed' with 1200 grade or similar
- base coat which has flashed off (solvent flash off, eg 1 hour) but not cured (day or so)

Is this about right?

 

dont worry it will stick over 1200 no probs at all....ive been a car painter sinse i left school , i dont come on here posting tripe that my mate said


- dried clearcoat that's been 'keyed' with 1200 grade or similar
- base coat which has flashed off (solvent flash off, eg 1 hour) but not cured (day or so)

for basecoat clearcoat it as soon as its flashed...more like 10-15mins really

 

right i had a go at the petrol cap so if i messed it up it wouldn't be tooo much hassle to put right, but the only problem is wont come shiney? any tips or ideas why its not working?

i used a light wet sand with 1500 grit and a bit of soap, then got some t cut and gave it rub and then polished it with some turtle wax. Should i of used actuall polish rather than wax?? (i just thought about that as i was writing this. DOH!)

 

Give some Farecla G3 cutting compound rather than T-Cut.

http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=2321&Mainselection=7

HTH

 

your gona need g3 or similar and a machine buffer for the rest of the car

no way will you hand polish it

and wax is just for protecting...dont move away from the compound and polish until its all shinney

 

thanks, cutting compound it is. i think my paint guy has the same stuff. would the cutting compound be able to get rid of the orange peel? or will i definitly have to wet sand it first?

 

yeah wet sand first. youll probably take years to get rid of orange peel with just g3.

 

ok thanks for the advice,

if i decided it needs another clear coat though would i have to sand and then G3 it? if i just sanded it would it look diffrent to the rest of the body work if i only did it on one panel?

question after question i know sorry guys!

 

if you're recoating with laquer, to my knowledge the earlier comment s are correct. you should have hit the laquer earlier on the basecoat. as the basecoat and laquer blend in to each other. i've had to repair jobs that have been done because the two paint systems havent bonded. so if you get a chip the whole lot starts to peel away. If you try to sand it you end up back where you started, i.e with the original paint and a massive headache!

 

no, just sand it dont g3 it paint will be too shiny to stick.

if you wanted to put another clear on you could just scotch it, but flatting the whole thing would be the best way to go, to get rid of any runs/sags, dirt nibs, excessdive orange peel etc etc.. as you know if you leave all this then it will only show up in the new layer of paint.

You should only consider repainting if you rub through the paint.
4 coats should be plenty, get your block with 1500-2000 and get sanding, its a ball ache of a job but its worth it in the end.

 

polish /compound alone qont remove the peel....sand with 1200/1500/2000 depending on how bad it is

if you choose to re clear coat is then it needs sanding flat (without going through ) with 1200 , assuming you clean off all the sanding water and do it right it will look normal and wont stand out against the rest

are you sure you can spray it again and get no peel? theres no joy in mega thick paint jobs , it will just chip like hell

 

well i'd be able to do a better job than i did the first time as i've had more practice but its only a last resort really, i'll try G3 on the filler cap tonight and then start with the rest if its good enough! I need to get some polish sealer and wax on it asap aswell so i'm going to have to get a move on as i'm starting to use it as a daily again!

 

just sand it and polish it fella ive seen some right **** paint finnishes (my own work included ) come up trumps with a flat and polish, infact today at work i seen the full side of an 08 audi tt that had just had a new quarter with a finnish that looks like it was applied with a schultz gun turn out better than factory with a few hours polishing.
You cant be sure you'll do it better the second time as painting technique isnt the be all and end all of getting a good finnish (but is a lot) as you have paint viscosity, paint mix, spraying temprature, gun and setup type to think of that can effect the finnish of the job so it may be out of your hands.

If its a daily driver do it a pannel at a time every weekend or so, itll take a while but keeps you from getting sick of it and keeps it on the road, i drove round in mine for months with primer patches all over the place before i got a chance to finnish it.

And dont apply wax to it just yet, the paint will still be curing (it takes about a month to fully cure) and you may trap solvents under the wax which may cause some paint damage, this is quite rare as i have seen it only once and in all probabilty wont happen but thought id warn you as it is a possibility, be it a small one.

 

how'd it come out mate? any updates or pics please!

 

I bought some g3 and yeah its good stuff! I gavethe filler cap a 1500 again and then attacked it with the g3 and it came up nice and shiney! its alot smoother than it was but theres still small low spots that you can see if the light catches it right. anyhow i started on the front wing trying to get a run out, it came up nice in the end but it took 3 hours of solid work! The laquer doesn't want to budge ! i'm going to do the rest bit by bit because free time is rare at the moment, plus my arm was killing after all that sanding! i used a halfords buffer with the G3 and that saved me some time i suppose.

I'll get some pictures when i can and show you what i mean about the slight low spots.

 

great stuff mate, look forward to seeing them. Started bodywork on mine and I'll be doing 2 pack at home in a ghetto marquee when it's ready!

 

is the halfords buffer a random orbital?

you really need a rotary buffer to deal with what your doing , you can get some on ebay for about 30 odd

 

yeah its worked i've still got slight dimples i think a little more flatting and they a rotary buffer then? is it just for the fact that they spin faster? i'll have a butchers on the e of bay and see what comes up.