My mk2 16v 1990 golf cant go much further as oil is either being consumed or falling out faster than I can pour it in! Managed to get 263k from it with just normal servicing and in 7 years i've never had it appart. Found an incomplete turbo technics kit some years back and have decided to build up an old skool motor using as many of the best bits VW offered and the TT kit. Spec is as follows: 16v 2042cc '93 2E 8v block from 75k car 2E pistons (modified for compression, matched weighted) 2E rods checked. Diesel crank, lightened, knife edged and balanced (hotgolf) Sachs clutch on standard 16v gearbox KR flywheel, lightened/balanced (hotgolf) KR front pulley lightened/balanced (hotgolf) KR 16v head (Dave Crisell) New guide fitted and cut back, 3 angle valve seats, valves unshrouded and cc'd, ported and polished and very light skim not to increase compression. Compression around 7.5:1 (my spec is here somewhere!) KR cams Vernier adjustable cam pulley (hotgolf) ABF oil pump Baffled sump Windafge tray Oil cooler take-off and externally mounted cooler Turbo technics exhaust manifold Garret T28 charger, rebuilt and fitted with 360deg bearing/balanced 3" custom downpipe rducing to 2.5" stainless system 5th injector with standard TT eblow (believed to be from a G60) Front mounted intercooler (2.25" in/out) Aquamist MF2 injection controller, 3D vacuum sensor Manual boost controller A/F ratio lambda probe in down pipe The idea is a reliable daily driver 16v with turbo the makes good power say 200 to 230hp that's basically all VW parts I'll try and upload pictures as we go Mart
Looks good, although compression seems a bit low. TT cars used to run 8, or was it 8.5? Why not switch to EFI while you're about it?
Good call, I will double check the figures for head cc etc. I thought this seemed low the other night but it was late. I'd be interested if anyone has a tt kit with an intact engine slam panel data plate to know their settings for ignition and spark plug type etc. I cant be bothered wth EFI setup at the moment, this is my daily driver and megsquirt takes alot to set up and map. Maybe build something later. I might add 4 more injectors and the fuel rail from a mk3 16v golf and blank the tt 5th injector off. This should give more than enough fuel for lots of boost (once its up and running) Mart
7.5:1 is too low and will make for a laggy and unresponsive setup when off boost. I am sure that TT engines were 8.5:1 and this was before affordable SEMs which have more precise control on spark angles keeping knock at bay. You are not just limited to Megasquirt as SEM. Any EFI system must be properly configured to the engine hardware for best control. For excellent engine response, fuel economy and road manners, a SEM is recommended With correctly setup control hardware, 230PS and~ 220-240 lbft @ 2500-4500 rev/min, which is turbo dependant, regardless of where the vehicle is measured, is quite an easy peak target to achieve with an overbored turbocharged 2.0 16v engine.
I have one of these kits. The turbo housing is cracked and the wiring loom has been chopped up. I'm considering fitted a T3 and refurbing the lot. Any help with the wiring would be great
Thanks Mart, i'll check the spec again tonight. I've cc'd the head and dished piston crown so can easily work it out. Man in the shed unshrouded the vlaves in the head slightly and took only a gnats whisker off to true the mating face of the head. What are the options for SEM? (Other than Megasquirt, i dont have the time to build one of those at the moment). This car is my daily driver and I hope to get the engines swapped out and this lump running within the next 2 weeks. Mart
DTA, Emerald, etc all work, although you'd need the unit and a wiring loom. Best thing would be to decide who you want to map it, and then ask them what they prefer working on. I had mine done at Stealth, and they prefer DTA, so that's what I have. I'm also running a 2L, but mine's a 9A with steel rods and forged pistons. GT28RS as Eddie suggested, and it's quite fast. Depending on how much boost you run, it would probably be a bit much for a daily driver. Mine torque steers a lot, but that's also because it's a dedicated track car with semi-slicks, silly camber and very hard suspension. I had a TT before that, but the Stealth uprated version with K-Star and 8 injectors, and that was plenty for the road. It ran a T25 on a KR 1.8, and that made around 235bhp on Stealth's rollers. Was a giggle on the road.
Toyotec....as my turbo is defunct, can you advise on replacing it and a reasonably priced (but not too technical) SEM?
As you are short on time to attempt your own ECU build, for alternative SEMs i.e. Standalone Engine Management you have: Emerald with the new K6 software + ECU connector for loom and 3 bar map sensor DTA S series or older EXP48 + ECU connector for loom + 3 bar map sensor. OMEX 600 + 3 bar map sensor and ECU loom connector Hydra EMS + ECU loom connector and Map sensor. Autronic + ECU loom connector and Map sensor. Microsquirt + ECU loom (This is a prebuilt unit that runs later MS2 firmware) A good calibrator should be able to calibrate any of the above. If you have to skill to deliver your own calibration then the associated GUIs (Graphical User Interface) are not hard to navigate to the main features. HTH.
That really depends on how much you are willing to get involved. Lots of range out there in terms of price and function.
Alex, You can always turn the boost down towards a wastegate minimum but map for a desired maximum load. Off boost or off WOT and in a real world driving scenario your required torque should not breach wheel slip angles and having a SEM would mean you can deliver an engine calibration to have good transition between part load and idle and part load to full load. These attributes tend to be missed when we speak about peak maximum output, which is a point in the engine speed range that we may experience at 15% if a "road car" is driven sensibly.
Also to MARTINH I will also add. The car in my signature WOLF R in my estimation, is perhaps a slightly less powerful version of sparrow's 16vT. I say that based on 1/4 trap speed data for both vehicles. The WOLF R, if provoked to WOT, even at the 'low' 0.8bar setting will prove to be a bit of a handful and worse if on its 'high' 1.2 bar setting. At real world driving speeds however you would not even know it is a turbo car and the response is almost as a well fettled NASP 2.0 16v . The part load response is where I spent most of the time on the engine calibration to achieve that experience. When tested on my current drive cycle, that level of engine calibration, among other engine improvements meant fuel economy of 37mpg. My point here is you can have a very powerful or torquey car that can destroy it's tyres and Porsches if you choose or pootle around smoothly in traffic just as any modern hatchback. The components, control and calibration will determine how well you achieve this.
Mine is a daily driver so it's more about the occasional ability to shock. Day-to-day drivability is a necessary. I don't want all out power - I just want it to last and put a daft smile on my face from time to time.
Whenever you near enough to mine and I am free, let me know. Can take you out in the WOLF R and you can judge and compare that car with what you have in mind
Proper mapping is important. Many people who have been in my car comment on how smooth it is. Off boost I'd say it's on par with how it was as standard. The missus could Drive it easy enough, and liked how she could dip her toe to release the power if the need arose.
Toyotec, thanks for the input here. I will pm you for a phone number and call you. If it's an out the box system for low bucks I'd be interested. Just checked my figures again and im getting 7.5:1? Here's the figures if someone wants to check I'm not being a dumb ass Bore = 82.5mm Stroke = 95.5mm (diesel crank) Gasket bore = 83mm Gasket thickness compressed = 1.4mm (abf metal one) Combustion chamber = 52cc Piston negative dish = 21cc Piston above deck at TDC = 0.25mm If I shoot for 8.5:1 then I guess I need to get the head skimmed. Any ideas? I thought maybe thin the multiple layered head gasket but can i get away with using just one if the wafer thin layers of it?? Mart
