anyone running this conversion with a push rod gearbox? what clutch are you using? what head gasket are you using? dous it need to be from a 3a or will any 2l gasket fit it as i have a mk3 gasket set lying around what fule preasure should i run with this conversion? thanks x
what car is it for? if its a mk2 digi then use everything you had before, any HG will do aslong as it for a 2l, i prefer the AGG one personally.
Any Mk3 gasket is fine, as long as it's a good brand. Use the clutch that matches the gearbox - so if it's the gearbox from a Mk2 8v, use a Mk2 8v clutch, although a 16v pressure plate might be a good enhancement to cope with the extra power.
The extra enhancement is cancelled out but an ECU that is mapped for a smaller engine that runs less compression.
Toyotec, would a Mk3 ECU and AFM solve this? And are the ECU's interchgangable between late digi and Mk3's?
The 16v pressure plate has been mentioned alot as a good upgrade, but recently me & J_S noticed that the 8v & 16v Sachs kits that AVS sell have exactly the same pressure plate. VW do list different pressure plates however, so if you were to buy one from them specify a 16v item. But it looks like some if not all aftermarket clutch manufacturers use the same pressure plate in both kits, I'd hope they use the stronger 16v rated item rather than the weaker 8v one though (assuming the VW 16v pressure plate is indeed stronger)
2E ECU would if you use the 2E inlet on the 3A engine. The you just plug in. The AFMs are the same for PB and 2E. This has the correct maps for this engine with its weedy little 54mm TB. You can port these out for a little more ooph.
Why 3a? will it not work on the other ones available? whats the difference between the 2e inlet and the pb inlet other that single butterfly?
the bhp increase isnt dramatic with a std head, but the torques go up a bit. The 2e inlet has the injectors built into it, where the pb inlet has the injectors in the head. The fitment is completly different so you need to match the head & inlet to the injection system you'll be using
On my very own 3A'd Mk2, I have have noticed an initial torque gain (the 1200-2700rpm area) from doing this both with the PB head fitted and with a 3A head fitted with an 2E inlet and 2E 54mm TB. This would tranalate in the abilty to accelerate from 10mph to 30 in 3rd without suddenly stalling the engine. This is similar to what I have noticed when going from 1.816v to 2.0 16v. To get the engine to match the PB head combination I had to fit an ABF 65mm TB as the with the 2E TB the game was all over at 4500revs. Then there was the problem smooth power delivery. I have noticed that from 2500rpm the car pings and from 5000rpm on a hot day there is also pinging. Make no mistake the knock sensor was tightened, replaced, Old green Mk2 haynes manual followed piont by point but this problem did not go away. Shifting the distributer to retard made the car run lame. Also where the dizzy is at the moment the caused me to upgrade the starter motor from the STD direct drive unit to gear reduction Mk3 unit to avoid cold starter kick back as the motor runs at least 10.5 compression as the book says. Straight line tests show 15.99@89mph ( around the same trap speed for the PB head set-up) for the 2.0 3A and 16.03@88 for the 1.8 PB with 0-60 being 7.8 for the 2.0 and 8.1secs for the PB. This is rubbish comapred to and EV engined car with 16v WUR 15.71@91mph and 7.44 to 60. This car is our family daily driver. I have built a megasquirt system for it and am eager to get it installed to prove to myself that this engine has more to come and hopefully out do my old EV car. Note I have not used the popular hp quotes as they do not always relate to real road driving experience. This was the basis for my comments. Due to evaluating my work over the years on various cars and they OEM systems. I tend to optimise factory parts to get them harmonising with what I want and when they no longer play ball, they are either sold or binned. In this case I have done all this work just to be slighty faster that a 1.8 8v from straight line tests. That is not to say you cannot have a quick EFi 2.0 8v. But from what I have tested for myself and after being a bit dissapointed, the factory ECU is a limiting factor to making this larger and high compression engine come alive.
oh b@llocks............. hope this ain't true, i've just paid out for my 2litre engine! so whats best then, as i have all the parts available, 2E inlet and TB, or PB items? also, would a remap cure all these issues and get the most out of the engine? i have the oppurtunity to use a 2E ecu when doing this conversion, would you recommend it?
wcrado: Toyotec speaks of the 3a engine, which has a higher compression ratio than the 2e lump which I assume you have,m this lump will bolt to the existing PB head & injection system and work fine as it has roughly the same compression ratio as the 1.8 lump
wcrado, i souldnt worry about it too much as my 2e powered golf was much better after the conversion, all i use was the 2e block & dizzy everything else was pb and it made good gain in torque. not sure what is being implied is true, it may just be the 3a that it applies to as jonny said.
Yeah, my MK2 Digifant with a 2e bottom end & chip got 141.9 BHP/132 ft/lbs at storm I do think their rollers are a bit optimistic, but a bog std 1.8 Digifant with a stainless zaust that went on after mine got 127.1bhp to give you a comparison
I have always wondered how the Digifant "magically" adds the extra fuel and adjusts the ignition for a 2.0l conversion - definately interested to find out how Toytec gets on with MS to get the spark and fuel sorted for the engine. Shame that you can't just get a 2.0L digifant chip and stick it in to sort it out !
From what I found out...Nothing once you use the PB head. The inlets between the 2 heads differ. I would say a that a custom remap, Like what is done with say a megasquirt will match fuel and spark to the engine's size advantage to bring it closer to 140lbft at around 3500 even though based on the std cams etc it will start to drop off soon after. STD 8vs tend to have diesel like torque curves Buying generic chips without knowing how or what this would be calibrated for is really just a waste of time.
