Hi all, just finishing building up my 2ltr bottom end swap and now iv got round to timing up the cambelt I'm having a few problems Iv got the engine sat at TDC at the flywheel Got the dizzy pointing the right way But when I came round to lining up the intermediate shaft and the crankshaft pulley the two marks sit about 7/8mm off each other and if I line them up the flywheel sits off TDC?? sorry for the crappy pic only got an iPhone camera but you can just about make the marks out - Any help would be appriciated, cheers louis
TDC on the flywheel is a small dot cast in next to one of the bi-hex flywheel to PP bolts. That diamond chisel mark is the ignition checking timing mark. That would explain the slight offset.
If the timing marks are the same as the earlier 8v...1800's... With the pistons at a true tdc, the rotor arm should be pointing directly at the block..not at roughly the 1o'clock position yours is currently at. Look at the top edge of the distributor that the cap sits on..you'll see a deep line cut into it. With the rotor pointing at the block, turn the dizzy so the line lines up with the centre of the rotor arm. Refitting the cap..the post that now sits above the rotor tip is number one...the firing order from there is then 1-3-4-2..connect the plug leads clockwise in that now order. Adjust yr timing from there. The dot on the edge of the inter shaft pulley should then be lined up with the notch in the top edge of the front pulley. .and the notch on the inside edge of the cam pulley should be lined up with the top edge of the head.
cheers guys il recheck everything in the morning, was following a vid off youtube for the dizzy, took me ages to get it like that lol, should have asked here first!
No probs. Clean all that red paint off and get a white paint stick or tippex pen and mark all the notches and dots with that..much easier to see then. Pull the rotor arm off and the plastic dirt shield from the top of the dizzy to see the notch in the edge.
ignore the int shaft marking, these can be way out if dizzy has been moved in the past. just concentrate on the rotor arm position. it doesnt even have to point at the notch, just needs to be aimed close to where you are going to fit spark plug lead #1! then fit the rest of the leads in the normal 1342 clockwise layout from there. the important thing is cam and crank are exactly at TDC, the rotor arm just needs to be close enough so it fires, then you adjust perfect with a timing gun edit heres a nice piccy showing the BTDC diamond and the TDC punch mark:
Cheers for your help so far guys but still having issues[:^(] got the original issue sorted but now have a new one, with the cam set with the marker flush with the front of the head I now can't line up the other sprockets, I think the valves might be touching cylinders as one of the lobes on the first cylinder is facing straight down?? Seccond one in With the cam set like this the crank pulley and inter shaft sit like this When I try line them up the crank moves Freeley until that point when it goes solid and stops, haven't pushed hard as I'm sure it's the valves on the pistons? Cheers again louis
the cam tdc mark should be on the inside of the pulley, if there is one on the outside its a late type pulley and should be lined up with the OT mark on the cam cover. of course its possible the sprocket is on back to front the cam is waaaay off TDC there, it should sit with lobes on #1 pointing up and away from each other like this -> |\ /|
That pointer on the cam vernier is for the scale of advancing and retarding the cam. NOT for setting the TDC point. Often after market verniers come with no std timing marks. As a close guide you want both cam lobes on number one cylinder pointing upward with lobe one to the front and lobe two to the back of the cam bearing cap nuts, this means number 4 cylinder valves will be "on the rock" (ie one shutting and one opening).
ah i just spotted the arrow he is on about yeah thats for adjusting the vernier dial in. what i would do if i were you is find a stock pulley, remove the vernier pulley and transfer the outer OT mark onto it, you can actually see the mark i mean on your intermediate shaft sprocket there
Right I have made myself a new TDC mark on the cam pulley using the old one for reference and it looks right according to dansters description and got the crank sprocket and inter pulley lined up best I can But when I go to crank it round to check nothing catches it goes stiff about 3/4 way round and you can hear a slight scuff, like the valves just touch, have taken the belt on and off a few times and each time this still happens I'm running out of ideas now lol your help is much appriciated guys! Louis
That looks like the timing marks are all fine now. Hmm, but the resistance you mention is odd. What head and cam are you using? It is not a cam lobe touching the head at the edge of a cam follower bore? Are the bolts holding the crank V belt pulley onto the timing belt pulley the correct length? If they are too long they may catch the casing behind.
dont worry about your valves as your engine is non interference. You know what position the cam is supposed to be in and you know the timing marks on the flywheel. Get these matched up, the int shaft always slips a couple of teeth when I try and get the belt on but like RJ said this can be corrected by adjusting the dizzy. Remember to keep all the belt slack on the left side around the tensioner.
Iv checked it all over again and the noise happens once every full rotation of the crank and is sounding like it could be coming from the gearbox side of the engine? Is there anything in there that I could have put on wrong that might cause this sort of problem?
You definitely tightened all 9 of the flywheel to pressure plate bolts? One of them loose could catch the bellhousing. You could check this through the top timing hole in the bellhousing.
Finally found the problem it is this notch on the flywheel catching on the bell housing as it goes round! It looks fairly worn as it is but never noticed anything before when it was on the old block? How should I go about fixing this? Can I file it down or will this affect the balancing of the flywheel to much?
Strange, I would unbolt the gearbox and check to see what it is hitting. Better safe than sorry. Maybe something has gotten inside the bellhousing.
Double check the flywheel is sitting square on the pressure late to while you are in there. Turn engine and note the flywheel does not have any wobble as it turns. Sometimes they can hang up on the locating dowels.
