Hi, Just got my first ever Dub! (Mk2 Golf GTI 16v) but it seems if I dont select 2nd gearwith perfectionI get a horrible CRUNCH, which obviously isn't good for the gearbox, and even more so is really embarrasing as my cars quite loud and it gets a few looks when I'm driving off from traffic lights!! Is this a common problem with this model? Is there something simple to stop this? Sorry I couldn't seem to get the search facility to work! Thanx, LMD
Common? Just a little bit, they all do it Change the gearbox oil for some Redline MTL, that might make it a bit better.
Tell me about it.! Does yours get better when it used a little. Mine get better as it get hotter. and driven say 5-10 miles. Redline MTL maybe better than what iam using! Might give it a go! 1st dont take long,second CRUNCH,3rd wheeeey, 4th wooosh, 5th warp speed now!
very common on vw's, but they're not supposed to do it. you need to take your time with second gear, and most by racers don't, hence damaged syncromesh. only cure is a rebuild, but by putting redline oil in the 'box its supposed to make it slightly less noticeable. using the heel and toe technique on downshift elliminates crunches on downshift though. Edited by: acf8181
i suppose its also worth mentioning thats theres a high probability that a lof of golfs are either a)in dire need of a g/box fluid change, and b)in need of topping up (the dead box i removed from my driver had less than half a litre in it! )
Well it does get better after a few miles, mabye I'll have to find out about getting the gearbox serviced, if that doesn't work I'll have to consider a new box or rebuild... right pain in the bottom though! Thanx for all your replys, LMD
I'd defo do a fluid change, with a certain synthetic oil, its name hasbeen mentioned enough times above . Is the gearshift OK?
Mine had a rebulit box before I bought it, receipt for 650 and still feels a bit sticky when cold when changing to second no crunch though. The factory shift IMO is quite long and I am going to fit a weighted shift rod.
As above - change gear slowly until the gearbox oil has warmed up and definitely look into Redline MTL. There is a small risk with MTL however in that it is a lot thinner than the standard stuff and _can_ leak past seals that were holding in the old oil. I changed in Redline around 4 years ago on my mk2 16v and ended up spending an extra 75 getting the seals replaced. Unless it is really bad I wouldn't bother getting the box rebuilt - on most mk2s it isn't really economically viable...
Thanks for all your replys, will find out about changing the fluid then. The rest of the gear changes seem okay to me, it isworse when it is cold, itthen crunches into 2nd! LMD
I had this and went to change the oil. It only had a pint or so left in it removing the plugs can be tough, I think you can use a wheel nut and spanner instead of a hex drive (or was that the bimmer?). And always take the fill plug out before the drain just to make sure you can get it filled before you drain the box (ask me how I know)
supposed to use 17mm allen key....but can be done with 17mm wheelnut and 17cm spanner always undo refill bung first, in case you can't get it undone (if you've already drained fluid out drain hole you'd be a bit stuck see) Edited by: acf8181
Done loads of these, cured them all by strippin the gearbox and changing the 2nd gear and syncro mesh hub, changing thhe oil might be ok for a while but it'll come back !!!
