`85 Postal Service Golf Restoration: 16V ITBs etc.

I've done all my fuel system in AN-6 Teflon lines and all my brake system in AN-3.

Once you've made the lines it's so much easier to work on imho.

 

Nice, I am a bit afraid of the Dash fittings since I heard some horror storys of cars burning down because of leaks etc., but at the same time I think they can`t be that bad if used in way more critical applications like aviation etc.

I didn`t buy them from Wish but from a motorsport company in Germany, which should at least be a start.

Do you have any tips/ do`s & dont`s? Do you use a liquid thread lock? Fuel System I want to use Teflon lines as well, for the oil cooler I`ll use some normal rubber lines.

 

I'm actually a huge fan of Hardline for fuel and brake systems, with flexible stuff only where necessary.

 

I am, too. Dash and dash lines are only used directly sorrounding the engine where hardlines cannot be used due to vibrations and flexibility. Nontheless this is the most critical area in terms of fire hazard.

Brake lines will be done from normal steel lines, fuel lines I want to use PE, like OEM

 

I've never had any AN fitting leak, don't thread lock them they will be fine dry imho.

I've done a set previously on my other car (Mitsubishi GTO V6 Twin Turbo)., was running E85 and Methanol mixes with that one and the Teflon lines were ideal.

As for building the lines it depends on the line you use really but once you've fitted a hose end onto the braided Teflon lines it will never come off.

Thinking about it I've been building Teflon AN-3 lines for 20 years or more as that's what we used on Motorcycles.

 

@KeithMac : Thanks for the insight, I`ll give the fittings a try

I didn`t get that much done, but at least the upper part of the header is in one piece.

Welding the last pipes:


The flange was mounted on an aluminium U profile to minimize warping.



test fitted to see if it still fits and started with making the 2-1 step of the header:

 

That is craftmanship!

 

You're annoyingly talented

 

I`m just a mere slave of my own ideas, tediously executing what they tell me to do

But seriously, thanks - I struggle with my hands being a bit shaky, so it`s nice to see people still appreciating the work.

Last weekend I managed to finish the header, it has taken so long now so I am very relieved it`s finished for now. Outer diameter primaries is 42mm, secondaries is 53mm, going into 2-1 collector to 63mm diameter of exhaust system.

Long 2-1 collector as the calculations dictated:


Putting it together. The secondaries are a bit of a mess with a lot of small cuts, but for now I^ll leave it as is:


And final test fit:


The angle of the picture is a bit awkward but there is enough room to the steering rack:

 

How did you decide what length primary and secondary pipes to make?

 

There is an online calculator. Iused this, but to be honest, I rather would have calculated it myself ,but there were either no informations at all or different information, so I was very insecure what to use and how to calculate it. So I went back to the online tool in hopes that it might work.

If it doesn`t work I have one reason more to build another header

 

Could you please send me a link to it?
I'm not happy with the manifold on one of my cars.

 

Surely, could`ve thought of that: https://www.hootbuilds.com/2020/03/induction-and-exhaust-length.html

 

Thank you.

 

Not that much progress at the moment, had some time with the family and also had to do some repairs on the daily (B8 A4).

Behold, the unearthed bolts from hell:



Also intake trumpets v2 seem to fit nice. The radiator core came from Holland and also fits nicely. I just put it in place roughly to see how I can manage the place:

 

But wait, now they are bent over the horizontal plane and are behind the radiator?

 

I was curious about that too.

 

I am not sure if I understand, what do you mean with horizontal plane? I think I have to add that there will also be an airbox. They need to be bent because otherwise they wouldn't clear the bonnet. The airbox will shield the intake trumpets from the radiator and provide fresh air.

 

As fas as I know anything about engines, the straighter the pipe into the cylinders, the better. Your trumpets now make quite a large angle, instead of ending horizontal, they are bent downwards. But whilst writing I remember you calculated the length, obviously.

That raises my second question, why is the (custom?) radiator so high? Even with an airbox, the air will get warm in the box, especially on the streets instead of blasting it on track. Also a tip from me would be to get the airbox first, because I had a lot of trouble fiddling with the radiator as the airbox is quite large. And i use 40 mm short trumpets.

 

Yes, the length needs to be like that, and straight trumpets just wouldn`t fit, unfortunately. The bent trumpets are a necessary evil, however many applications (for example BMW) do have curved trumpets so i don`t think it`s too much of an issue. With VW 16V engines, there is almost always a curve in the intake tract, it is just a matter of where.

I wanted to have the radiator surface to be as big as possible. The airbox will be custom made like the trumpets, so fitment will not be an issue. Currently, the latest 3d model of the Airbox is 7l of volume and clearing the radiator. The trumpets have about 50mm clearance to the inner wall of the airbox. The inlet will be offset to the trumpet intake to allow better airflow.

The radiator will get a plate to guide the hot air (like original), and the airbox will get some heat shielding towards the radiator.

I completely get your concerns, and I am happy that you are commenting your thoughts. For me it is a great help to indentify possible roadblocks.

My thoughts come from experience with an original ABF engine. In the summer, after some spirited backroad driving, the original intake was so hot it was impossible to touch. My goal is to be able to touch the airbox.