Wow wee! Im not sure on the answer as I didn't think it would run being that far out... Surely there has to be another mark further round
There is yes on the inside face of the Cam gear. I'll turn it to that one and see what the crank pulley and gearbox end are doing to be sure. Perhaps I'm just being a bit stupid and not gone to the right marks afterall.
Remember the crank turns twice for every single turn of the cam, so you probably have the cam off 180 from top dead centre. Turn the crank round again and see what marks if any line up on the cam, and what the lobes look like To answer your other question the rubber elbows will probably be ok but you can delete the pipe to the airbox entirely along with the rubber elbows and t piece, just run a pipe from the throttle.body direct to the fpr
So just to confirm it was my own stupidity and I was 180 degrees out. Whoops. Ah well I'm learning So the good news is everything at least looks to be spot on: cam gear, ring gear and crank pulley all align. A decent baseline so I've tipex marked all relevant points inc a reference point on the crank pulley to crank bolt. The cam shaft lobes look like this: View attachment 8906 I've been painting ceilings all morning so that's as far as I got just now but am I right in thinking I need to remove both the crank and waterpump pulleys to get the bottom cover off? Easy ways of doing this?
I'm finally getting round to doing the full cam, lifters and cam belt swap tomorrow. In anticipation of not being able undo the waterpump pulley bolts I've bought a new waterpump anyway. Logic states I may as well do it whilst its all blown apart and also swap over the pulley on the bench. However is this a good thing to do considering I'll need to run the cam in for 20 mins? Dont want to have to be messing with overheating issues whilst trying to bed in cam or do you think it will all be fine to do at once?
I'd go for it. You shouldn't have any issues, just keep a close eye on things. I certainly wouldn't want to be going in on two occasions if not needed!
Mine had cheap coilovers and they were horrible, so have replaced with Bilstein B4 struts and stand and standard springs. It is standard ride height but looks too high, so will probably change to eibachs which should drop about an inch.
Ok a bit p!$$3@ off as I have nothing to report but failure. I just could not get the crank pulley bolts off Very annoying as I tried everything I could come up with and even broke a tool in the process. So in the end had to button it all back up as I needed the car today. I may have to call defeat and send it to a garage to finish the job Anyone local to me willing to have a go let me know! On the brighter side I did manage to replace all the rocker studs and fit a new gasket and my shiny rocker cover. I also located a timing gun today from a mate down the road. Turns out the last owner had set it to tdc mark and not btdc and then tried to get it to idle right by messing about with the idle screw. So I've set it back to btdc and it's idling sky high - 1800 rpm - so I'll need to block off the intake side, reset as per RJ instruction and dial it back down. I have a c02 measure too so I'll sort all that side out before I send it off to a garage to have the cam, the belt and tensioner, lifters and waterpump changed. At this point I'm going to chuck a bottle of Wynns (prob hydraulic lifter stuff) so I can drive around on it in the meantime and see if it makes a difference to the lifters in there now.
Yeah? Won't mash the bolts up? Keeping it all still was one of the major probs but I was using two allen tools on ratchets working in opposite directions and one of those broke. Thought it was only sposed to be 20nm torque on them!
It will just put 12 lines down the outside of the bolts, wont do them any harm. if they are not rounded off you can re-use them or just buy new ones from VW they are not expensive. you can even use the same method to tighten back up if they're rounded off and you urgently need car back on the road lol you can use a 12 point 19mm socket on the big middle bolt to hold crtank still while you crack the outer ones off
but if your bolts are not rounded off then now is the time to invest in a proper allen bit set for your ratchet, allen keys are not ideal for this kind of thing
Agreed I've been using the Halfords professional ratchet bits. First one broke so replaced for free and bought another to hold the pulley with the other ratchet but I prefer your idea of holding it via crank sprocket bolt. I may have another go at it yet! Btw is there any reason why they are allen bolts and not, say, 13mm bolts? Space to fit onto the pulley perhaps?
After following @rubjonny awesome Digifant tuning write up I've now set the idle to where it should be and it's running 100% better. Pulls nicely. I can tell it still needs the c02 set which is tomorrow's job but been driving her all week so far. Im convinced the aftermarket suspension hasn't been bolted in properly as it feels looser and makes more and more of a racket everytime I drive it. I have the original complete set up - is it easy to swap over or should I just get a garage to do it? Any bits I should def change along the way e.g. top mounts?
Just go for it! It's not hard at all with a half day at your disposal. Replace top mounts as they're all coming out anyway, you may need to get 4 wheel laser alignment afterwards as the camber will be out. Or use a level finder on the disc and set up yourself to save the few quid.... I'll be swapping mine out again when the B12 kit arrives. I have coilovers that are crashy and harsh. Not great on my brittle back lol
Went to fit a Kenwood head unit I had sat on the shelf for a few years. Was hoping it to be a plug and play to replace the Blaupunkt CD player bur whilst ita plugs into the now standard iso connector the screen is dead. The CD whirrs when you hit eject but nothing really happens other than that. It could be a dodgy head unit however I've noticed that not all the wires coming from the Golf loom correspond to the plugs. Looks like this: View attachment 10136 View attachment 10137 On the headunit plug side: The Brown goes to the Black on the loom. The Red goes to nothing (the yellow and white wire on the loom has been cut), the Yellow wire goes to the Red wire on the loom and the Blue wire goes to nothing. On the loom plug side: the white and blue wire goes to nothing. Is all this right or wrong? May explain why the head unit isn't powering up the screen?
the red wire on the stereo harness is your switched live, which isnt fitted to mk2s untill very late in production. the cut yellow/white wire is the speed sensitive volume control wire, looks like someone moved the pin to the switched live socket expecting that to work. when that failed it was cut and a chocolate block added, then nothing lol to sort this you have a few places you can tap into for switched live, most go for the black/yellow wire to the heater switch but I would recommend instead you tap into the thinner black/red to the glovebox light. if you want it like factory then it is fed directly from the ignition switch pin SU, for the CE1 fusebox you need a standard latched 2.8mm spade to fit the empty spot on the ignition switch plug.
