No bent pins but now fuel shut off solenoid fault is on all the time. Try sorting one issue and it leads to another I'll try and source a replacement engine harness plug and swap it over if I can find one! Surely after this the wiring fault has to be within that connector... Today sucks!
Both ecus do control a pwm solenoid. It’s just one is setup for pressure regulation and the other for vacuum regulation. What are the values in vag come block 11 showing alongside the duty cycle? They should be Actual and specified map pressure? I can’t remember on an afn which way round the n75 duty cycle should be. If it is inverted or not compared to the numbers in the maps Are you sure you have the vac plumbing to the n75 valve the correct way round in terms of the vent to the air box and the line to the turbo?
Yes I'm certain it's the correct way around but I did only go from info off other threads. I plugged the afn ECU in and took for a spin and it also had boost and kicked in nicely so I guess they both just cause some actuator movement one way or another. Happy that it was running ok once the n75 and n18 was switched around though. Well ennoyed that the temp sensor and now the fuel shut off are playing up but I'm sure the fault must be in that round connector so sourced a replacement. Testing wires for temp sensor and they were continuous upto the plug but not after. We shall see
While I await the replacement loom connector and b12 suspension kit I thought I'd sort a few other glitches out. The power steering pump pulley was about 1mm away from the chassis leg and needed the leg heating up and hammering in slightly. This should have been done before I dropped the engine in but hey ho it only took a couple of hours and meant lifting the engine and box up a foot. This pained me Before - After - Lesson learnt - always check space upon engine fitment... Then got shut of the hockey puck front mount Back to standard cheese hole mount That should dull down some vibrations in the cabin. Also I took off the rear mount and trimmed a little more from it as the turbo actuator was still rubbing a touch. All good now. Strapped on a new mk4 gear knob so that looks tidy and finished. Also I need to keep an eye on the turbo because when I split the downpipe from the hot side it was oily. I'm not sure if oil has been pushed through the turbo seals as the return pipe is slightly stretched or if it's from when it was running like a bag of spanners and is just fuel residue or the like? No oil at all in the intercooler piping or the like so fingers crossed it clears up but if not then I'll pull it off again for inspection and most likely rebuild it again... Edit* I'm convinced it has pushed oil through the seals due to the return being restricted. The two arrows show how the return line is not straight and restricts oil from exiting the turbo... New longer line ordered and fingers crossed it hasn't done terminal damage. The engine wasn't boosting when I drove it so hoping it hasn't cooked it. Still a Bummer!
Where is a good place to start with fixing the lack of dash lights? Fuses all good - no lights including tacho and dash switches. There was a blue/grey near the radio not hooked up and that's all I remember.
do the number plate lights work? those are on the same feed. if so, start at the headlight switch dimmer wheel you should have varable voltage at the blue/grey wire on the back as you mess with the wheel
Finally got chance to fit the replacement plug for the engine electrics. Painstaking but worth it... I still need to test run it but that's great to see! Also swapped out the return line on the turbo... Turned out that this was the wrong one also so just nipped back to Darkside and swapped for a custom length line. That seems to have done the trick. Unsure why this one, which is supposed to fit, just doesn't. Now I just have these to fit and the wheels and I'm away again Tomorrow's job I think
Tested the dimmer and it wasn't even contacting. Threw in the one i had before and it seems to be working ok but barely lighting the switches with the dimmer cranked to max 12v. I Have a load of bulbs but not sure I'll be going in and replacing those just yet. Very fiddly! Clocks are nice and bright so no need to go there. On another note the motor is back together and I drove it onto the front drive to take some measurements and the vibration has dulled right down now with the standard mount back in place really changes how it feels in the cabin. Some MORE bits ordered from VW to get these struts and springs in place as they don't come with top cups for the spring to seat against. Was hoping to have them on by now
To test if its dimmer or bulbs loop a wire between the grey/blue and the red wire on the switch that will make sure they see full 12v. if still dim, then replace the bulbs. switch ones aren't too bad but need to split switches and solder, dash ones same deal but you can find pre-made LED holders if you look carefully. most of the bulbs you find dont work, you need oens where the retaining lugs are offset 90degrees to the contact pads, most you find are inline. heater panel is most tricky, either split the panel in half to add 2 leds for a more even pattern or chop the plug off the back flush then you can remove the bulb from the plug housing and insert your own. to do that push the 2 terminals in from the back this will shove the bulb holder out the front Danny Jepson on facebook does the lot, he also has stock of nice metal heater panel inserts
Ok cool I'll give that loop wire a go. Might look into this guy then as I attempted to replace that bulb in the heater panel but did a bad job as it just blew fuse 3 instantly. Guess that means the connection upto the panel is ok though lol
Ronals have been rubbered up today and I have been and collected the bits needed to fit the suspension. £108 from VW for some bits of metal cups haha jeeeez. So very nearly there again
Is it a necessity to prime the master cylinder through on the bench before fitting and bleeding? I'm happy to do it but is it needed?
Trying to fix this soft spongy and low pedal I've decided that a few parts need changing out. Old bias valve out... New one in place This has lots more natural movement in than the old crusty one! New master cylinder in place I took off the vacuum pipe and tested the one way valve and all seems ok there. Gave a proper bleed again with the rear calipers off and checked. Including the clutch so fingers crossed a road test says all is well now. If not then I may look at a new servo Then swapped out the older coilovers for the bilstein B12 Pro Kit.. Looks loads smarter and should completely change the feel of the car Just waiting on some bump stops for the rears then I can fit these too. All is going to plan again!
So far the car has only been run for around 20 miles so I'm not too sure just yet. At the very bottom of this photo out of shot is a heat shield protecting it from the turbo heat though. Ill keep conscious with that and feel it on its first good run out
I've ordered and taken delivery of some rear bump stops and I'm curious to know how to test if they are too hard BEFORE I fit them. They are made of a rubber and do have some squishyness to them but how much should they have? Should I be able to compress them right down or should they be really firm? Any help would be good
