Picked up my lightened flywheel when I dropped the head in for its big valves& am planning to fit it along with the 16v pressure plate whilst the head is still off. Can anyone give me a brief outline on how to do it/what needs to be removed etc as ive never dabbled in clutches/gearboxes before?
As far as I remember from previous, (before all that useful reference material was needlessly thrown away!!) The 16v plate is the same part number! I just replaced my clutch for the first time and it is fairly straight forward. You will need a 12 point socket set to remove the flywheel/clutch housing bolts. Remove them by cracking them all and then working your way round undoing them a little at a time, applying the same philosophy you do to doing up wheel nuts (opposites) I bought a clutch plate alignment tool which is useless and you are welcome to it (11 from machine mart) You could do the job with a bit of dowel. The fly wheel is bolted to the cluth plate which in turn is bolted to the crank unlike a lot of motors which are the other way round. You will remove the clutch plate, remove the old clutch pressure plate, slip in new pressure plate and bolt new lightened sexy flywheel over the top making sure the pressure plate is central. (that is where my lying tool was meant to come in) Degrease everything with a good quality cleaner!
Do you mean just the clutch parts or a how to for the whole gearbox removal? Pressure plate to flywheel bolts are 9mm star socket. Flywheel to crank bolts need to be replaced as they are stretch bolts. You also need to use some thread lock compound on the new bolts. They are highly torqued so you'll need to hold the engine from turning. There are all sorts of method for this from a piece of strapping metal bolted to the flywheel to chucking a jack under the flywheel. I'll leave that up to you unless you get stuck. Remember to grease the splines of the friction disc.
Flywheel bolts arn't stretch bolts just high tensile ones with thread lock on. But it is recommended to use new ones, they come with thread lock on.
From Autotechnik in Southampton!! Its very mildly lightened AFAIK (4KGs or something) & has been balanced to 8000RPM... More than enough for my humble 8v
Forget about the "16v" pressure plate unless your "8v" plate is shot. The 16v and 8v plate is the same one, with the same Sachs part#: 3000-251-004 VW puts different VAG part#'s on them so they can charge more for a 16v unit.
Does all this mean that you can change the clutch plate without removing the gearbox/engine unit from the bay? I'd got it into my head that it had to come out. This would be a lot easier if it doesn't and I think my Jetta clutch is starting to go...
Gearbox has to come out. I just wondered if he had it out already. The only cars I've worked on that you didn't need to remove the box were some old vauxhalls.
AAAARG!! this is so annoying. I did a complete write up on this one on the old forum. I haven't got time at the mo to write another one. Basically if you follow the Haynes (old manual) guide you should be fine for getting the box out. I suggest removing the drive shafts completely as they get in the way a bit. You don't have to, but its better. Also with the drive shafts removed you can get to the silly little plate at the back of the box above the drivers side inner CV. You'll know what I mean when you get there. Remove all the mounts except for the rear block one (you don't have to loosen this one if you don't want to). When everything is undone, pull the box away from the engine a bit and then twist it anti-clockwise a fair bit. This makes it easier for the diff to clear the subframe. The grease is a special type that looks like treacle it sticks nicely to the splines, but you can use CV joint grease as well. Usually you get a small sachet of the stuff in a clutch kit along with new bolts (which as someone rightly said already come with the thread-lock on them). Sorry that's nowhere near as good as me other write up. If you get any probs, then email the group and we'll sort ya out. Edited by: harry_the_cake
If you want to believe that, I've got some swampland in Arizona for sale. Cheap. Sachs used the same pressure plate for all the 1.8 engines, ranging from 55bhp to 139bhp. Part # is 3000-251-004 Here is the link to the Sachs site. Search on VW. http://webcat.sachs.de/index.asp?SPR=4 Edited by: espen w
Cheers Harry!! Im sure il be ok. I think il change the pressure plate now ive got it & see if it makes any difference!!
I always thought that the imbalance of the flywheel, or any other bit of turning mass stayed the same, so you could actually balance it at 1000rpm and it'd still be in balance at 10,000rp, just like dave walker says in the new CCC.. So how do auto tecknick (Spelling) do it ?
When I had my flywheel done they only balanced it up to around 1000rpm. And it'll be good upto around 8000 from what they said. Technically the machine they used for mine is basically the same as a wheel balancing machine. They spin it up at low revs to check for errors, drill the flywheel where required(machine tells you where) and put it back on and spin it up again. Continue this 'til its right.
Chris, I am back next week, i can give you a hand if you need it. Thats if you haven't started it already. Can't be any different than the barge was. I could do with getting my hands dirty again, especially after the last 3 weeks i have had
The springs of any pressure plate will lose tension over time, so fitting a new one will provide more clamping pressure.
