open the pack mate. there should be a white piece of paper with instructions that contains the torque settings as well
theres no paper atall mate. just a piece of card inwhich they have been kind of shrink wrapped onto. other than the logo etc, there is nothing else except the part number sticker. will try and give them a ring later and find out. cheers though brutal.
I ordered them with the rest of my parts through the engineers that i used. phoned them to see if they knew and the contacted the company they got them off. your right, the paper should have been included, behind the arp lube, but on the rare occassion the machine or person fails to include it. the torque settings are 35 ft/lb using the arp lube.
well,i spent thursday and friday building the engine up and putting it in. not something i intend on doing again too soon! lol. after a few turns of the key it fired up. a bit lumpy at first but then smoothed out abit. drove it home slowly and all seems pretty much ok. i have a small oil leak coming through the sump. apparently the windage tray rubbers arent that reliable, so will probably put some silicone around it. was wondering what the general rule is for running in the engine? every now and then there is a small back fire. would this mean the dizzy needs to be turned a little? also, my clutch pedal doesnt come all the way up and it bites really low. same gearbox that was on it too. any ideas? thanks to all those who have answered my previous questions. will hopefully be able to thank you personally at one of your roliing road days sometime soon.
No they are not, when you are about to change the oil, take the sump off and put some silicone there. Make sure you clean the block's surface good. There are two opinions on this matter. First is to drive to low rpms and gradually move up the rpm range as the mileage goes up and that's for 600 miles and the second one is http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Check your timing first That's because you got a new clutch in, haven't u? You can sort the pedal from the clutch cable. Try to give it 2 rounds ACW
ahhh, ok. was familiar with the first 600 miles etc, although i thought it was upto around 1500 miles. the link you sent me sounds logical. have you ever tried this method? with regards to the timing, i have timed it up to the original factory timing marks. however, i had 45 thou taken off the block and the head was re-surfaced/skimmed. i dont know how much by though. i bought a vernier pulley, so how many degrees should i advance it as a starting point? the cams are kent 278/278 and not 276/276 as i originally posted at the start. i have put a new clutch in. i had a look earlier, and it seems that the arm on the gearbox doesnt click back down fully unless i push it? im sure i didnt, but could it be that i put the clutch disc in the wrong way? im sometimes prone to attacks of dozziness!
No need for 1500, just 600. I'm always going for the second method yeah and i didn't have any problems at all. You have to measure lift@TDC to correctly set the cam timing. You just can't say "advance it 2 degrees because you skimmed that amount off" Did you try to adjust the clutch cable as i said before?
well, it does sound logical. will give it a go. i had a look but adjusting it either way wouldnt make a difference as tha cable is just loose until i pull the arm back down. will have a good look tomorrow. how do i measure lift? with a cam dial?
It sounds like the arm doesn't get enough resistance from the cable that's why stays there. Give the cable enough adjustment so that it's not loose. Yes you need a dial gauge
cool, will have a good look 2mo. as for the guage, will order one up if my mate doesnt have one. cheers for your help again brutal.
Just a quick update. clutch all sorted. just needed adjusting, just as brutal said. windage tray oil leak sorted too with the aid of high temp sillicone. tick over also set by rotating the dizzy cap. starts on the button everytime. cant wait to get it run in so i can dial in the cams and get the timing perfect.
Went with the link you posted me mate. but not taking it over 4k rpm if i can help it. drove 20 odd miles and changed the oil. just incase there was anything left in it from the engineers. Also sticking to back roads so i can vary the rpm. think i will do the 600 miles and start putting my foot down.
