Hi all, My Mk2 ABF running on Digifant developed a fault recently. Initially it just died on me while driving, after a while it would restart, run for a minute or two, then die again. Would restart almost immediately, but only run a few seconds. Leaving it for 10 minutes or so would allow it to again start and run for a minute or two and die. We have changed the crank sensor and ECU relay. Also put the coil on another car where it works fine. Fuel is definitely being delivered. Scratching our heads now and thinking it may be a faulty ECU. Anyone got any thoughts? Cheers,
what fuel setup have you got on there? if its mk2 golf maybe the lifter pump in the tank has packed in makign the main pump strain. or theres an issue with the main pump, or the wiring to it. to check lifter unplug the main pump under the car and turn the key 1 click, see if you hear the lifter pump prime. on mine my main pump woudl randomly cut out due to fusebox damage, the lifter pump would still run and believe it or not the abf will actually idle on just the lifter pump. not well, but it will just about manage
Bat, have you checked for spark? When it cuts out, is it lights out, nothing! Or splutters and misses and stops? Also, RJ has a super easy guide for adding VCDS port, mines a Seat and has different colours but follow instructions and it's three wires.
RJ knows where Im going with this, I've unfortunately developed a phobia on my ABF and twitch and often break out in rashes whenever I read a ABF dies thread. So Im not the best person to respond to this even though I had an ABF dead for months, I should have FIRST AND FOREMOST added the VCDS port and it would have saved me over a year of grief. But for now, follow RJ's lead, you're in good company. h
Yeah Mk2 setup mate. I've actually got it running again now sort of accidentally while looking into wiring up a diagnostic port. I think it must have been a wiring fault relating to the immobiliser box. took it all apart and put back together and car worked again. So have done a better job of the wiring and relocated the immob box inside the car, as it was by the ECU. Main fuel pump is definitely all good. What would symptoms be if the lift pump was iffy? Cheers,
Thanks mate. I will definitely be looking onto getting a diag port hooked up. Re your first question. It was just stopping dead, not spluttering or misfiring.
if the lifter had gone the main pump would get louder and start io struggle then eventually it'll die. doesnt seem to match your symptoms but its worth a check anyway. same goes for an immobiliser fault, if it was that the car will fire up for a few seconds then cut out, but it wouldn't cut out randomly later when driving as it only checks against the immobiliser during the first start. if its fixed after messign at the fusebox you may have a loose contact or a bad wire join somewhere in the loom so bear that in mind if it happens again. as blis says the diagnostics feed comes out of the immobiliser box, look for a single grey wire with a brown plug on it
Thanks mate. The other thing that may have 'fixed' it is that I unplugged the ECU and tried a spare non-immob version (didn't work), then put the original back and just after that it all worked. So maybe doing that cleared something. We had changed the crank sensor before this, and a sensor in the coil.
has it had the mk2 coil conversion? if so maybe theres a wire splice for the mk2 tci unit near the ecu which is poor
righto, have a good look at the ecu pins make sure they're all straight, fully seated and clean if it does it again
If problems persist... http://www.clubgti.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=425&d=1433318094 These work!
Thanks, Blis. I had a Topran one fitted. Things got weirder still yesterday. The heater blower stopped working, then the car was hard to start after work. Stopped off on the way home and she refused to start after that. Took ages to even jump start from my 1.9TDI Passat. Since then though, car turns over much easier than it has done for ages, and starts easily. Also blower randomly started working again :-s
OK, so the saga continues. The cutting out while running issue seems to have been solved, possibly by changing the crank sensor, but I also swapped a load of other stuff. Then it began refusing to start for 24, sometimes 48 hours usually after a day of use. It was clear that I need to get a diag port wired up, so that is now done. Since I've had VCDS on it, sod's law it wouldn't break, until today! So I used the car loads yesterday, trying to get it to break, and it was spot on. This morning the fault is back. Turns over fine but no attempt to start whatsoever. I hooked it up and it showed the following faults: 00523 - Intake Air Temp Sensor (G42) - 30-00 - Open or Short to Plus 00625 - Vehicle Speed Signal - 03-10 - No Signal - Intermittent 00519 - Intake Manifold Pressure Sensor (G71) - 03-10 - No Signal - Intermittent I cleared all codes a few days ago, so there are new. Cleared them just now and nothing coming back, but the fault it still apparent. IE it will not start. Any thoughts/suggestions? Cheers,
Sounds like the ECU is loosing power while on the run and open circuiting those sensors. I say that as the MAP is inside the ECU and not subject to a loose wire to it.
