I am in need of some help I have dropped an AGU lump into the rear of my R5 GTT I am running adaptronic e420c standalone ecu and I just can't get an spark at all. The engine cranks over, the injectors fire, the ecu ingition outputs are giving 12v at coil pack plug end, I have used the original AGU loom and spliced into the adaptronic connections as per the attached diag I was originally using the VW 3 pin coil packs and the bosch 211 ignitor but I kept blowing ignitiors and not cheap to replace so after 2 blown ones I ditiched this setup and have now gone for a clio 172 wasted spark coil pack and leads with bulit in ignitor and I am not blowing coil packs but I am still not getting spark at all?? I have checked earths all good i have checked ecu timing settings and all good also, I have traced and replaced wires and all good there, I have checked the ohm reading across the crank sensor and am seeing 780ohms. I have ordered a new crank sensor just for the sake of it Any help is much appreciated
By the looks of things you need to use external amp before your coil pack How exactly have you wired in your coil pack? Judging by your comment you are expecting ECU to supply switched +12v to your coils? If so this is very much never the case on any Ecu i have ever used Coils/ coil pack needs +12v supply from your ignition switch and ecu sends switched -Ve signal which charges the coils as per your choice of dwell time
Are 1 and 2 built into the device? If they are then you are amplifying and ignition amplifier, hence the reason for blowing up ignitors in the previous set up.
Looking at the diagram it appears that they are external as it shows pin and wire colour, in this case green and yellow
Hi many thanks for the quick response. Sorry to be a numpty this is my first standalone install but what does -ve mean?? in that a neg signal? My ecu gives a < 0.7V on each ignition output with the ECU on but not cranking. IS my ecu giving a + or - minus signal
-VE means negative output Your coil should have +12v or positive feed on it permanently from Ignition switch (Ign +12v) and then 2 negative feeds are pulsed by Ecu for short amounts of time, this is what charges the coil
Originally I was using the AGU VW 3 pin coils and the Bosch 211 std ignitior and it would overheat and knacker the ignitor. My ecu gives out < 0.7V so that's not a negative output then from my ecu ?? if not it could explain the lack of spark and blowing Bosch 211 ignitor How would you recomend wiring in the bosch 211? Many thanks for your help
Less than 0.7v Should be ok. Maybe there needs to be some circuitry to pull down to zero. But that should be enough to fire the coil. Do you have dwell settings in your software? Maybe these aren't set right.
Dwell is set @ 3500us in my software I have had it 1800us and same situ Amplifier Bosch 0227100211 wired as 4 pin plug Pin 4 - Coil pack 1 Pin 3 - Coil Pack 2 Pin 2 - Coil Pack 3 Pin 1 - Coil Pack 4 5 Pin plug on amplifier (Wasted spark setup) Pin 1 - IGN 1 Standalone ecu Cylinder 1 Pin 2 - IGN 2 Standalone ecu Cylinder 2 Pin 3 - GND Pin 4 - IGN 2 Standalone ecu Cylinder 3 Pin 5 - IGN 1 Standalone ecu Clyinder 4 coil packs wired in as Pin 1 is trigger signal , Pin 15 is ignition supply Pin 4a is GND Coil packs are wired as Pin 1 trigger - Goes to Bosch 211 ignition ignitor Pin 4a Yellow / brown - Earthed to cam cover (std untouched 10mm bolt on cam cover) Pin 15 Black / purple - Ignition 12v
The diagram for the various 20vT coil is below. Taken from here. For a non amplified application you want a fixed dwell as the external ignitor does its own dwell control.
Y don't you just use 4 pin amplified coil packs? Hitachi ones are really robust, in 6 years i have never needed to replace any!
