Any 1.8t experts in the Reading / Maidenhead area?

looking for some help with my AGU conversion (into a T4 transporter) if anyone can spare a bit of time to look over things.

It's driving me nuts at the moment with various misfires and an overall lack of boost.

Here's the spec.

AGU
440cc injectors with 3bar FPR
K04 turbo
Emerald K6 ECU
FMIC
Forge recirc valve
PRINS LPG system.

It's been mapped to 227bhp and 200lb/ft torque but the boost never really got above 10-15psi.

At low revs we found a faulty injector which I've now swapped and now it idles better but will misfire when you give it a little throttle but that will then clear. It runs better on gas than petrol which again leads me to suspect the injectors but it's also started misfiring when accelerating on both fuels

Not much I can do until the weekend but I'll look over it again. I'm going to fit a boost gauge and I'll change the plugs and play around with some spare coil packs I have. I@d certainly be grateful if someone can have a look over it all to confirm I have everything connected up properly, particularly vacuum lines, N75 etc.

All suggestions and ideas welcome. Driving me potty at the moment

 

storm developments used to be good, not been there in a long time, but were always helpful.

 

Its a bit of trek but Jim @ JKM is a legend on Emerald K6 ECU + 1.8T

 

Cheers

I was more hoping for a "man in the shed" type person to be honest. I don't mind getting stuck in but I'm a little out of my depth on the 1.8t.

The map is fine or very close anyway as I was lucky enough to have Dave Walker do the job and really enjoyed watching the guy at work. Basically the boost is flat out in the map but for some reason I don't (he agreed) it's not delivering what it should. I accidently had the N75 the wrong way round before we mapped it and it was producing 22psi at that point. Got it the right way round and the curve really flattens out after climbing really well to start with.

I want to get these silly misfires sorted though, so I'll do the obvious to start with and go from there. It's been a real labour this one. I've fought it every step of the way.

 

10-15psi max in a k04? You sure? More like nearer 20psi.
Have you checked for leaks? Must be an issue but beware that if there are leak and they are cured, it will need mapping again.

Have you had vag com on it?

 

Rubjohnny is from Reading I think.

 

No diagnostics with Emerald unfortunately.

yes I know it's too low especially after getting 22psi earlier. We originally thought it might be the hoses restricting the flow either side of the N75. I need to double check those and try some slightly larger ones I think.

You're right in that I'm suspecting leaks but I also think it's a combination of things to be honest and it's the classic tale of chasing your tail and losing all confidence

 

If it's wiring help you need, then Rubjonny would be a good man to talk to.

On a note of caution, if a map was set up for a car, then it won't necessarily be the right map for a much heavier vehicle. It should get you started and moving, I'd think, but in general, a heavier vehicle will need a less aggressive ignition map to avoid pinking. The engine will spin up more slowly, I'd think. I'm no expert on turbo stuff, but I'm basing this on the results posted on this forum mapping various NA cars. Gearing and weight of the vehicle will be a factor.

 

You do not have to be a "legend" to recalibrate an Emerald system, just have to understand engine calibration really, although Dave walker does now these controls well as you would expect.

It sounds to me you have a post throttle leak, that is causing a lean misfire on a nearby cylinder, assuming of course the controls are mapped to deliver MBT and at least LBT for the conditions.

1.8Ts can leak from the inlet gasket and injector inserts. It may be worth looking at these areas.

If the misfire goes away and you still cannot achieve mapped/requested boost, then there is a possibility that the wastegate actuator neds winding in some.

I can achieve 30+psi on a 5404 type turbo o a 1.8T, although it does not hold on to that level for very long.

HTH.

 

Cheers Toyo

Interesting point and a leak around the injectors mght be an issue. I did forget to mention that it's got a wideband lambda fitted and AFR's seem ok. Certainly not running lean anyway.

 

Cheers Mike.

That makes sense and I also expect the exhaust to play a part in that. I'm certainly not expecting nor want dynamite but I obviously want it running right and not achieving the right boost is on of the symptoms at the moment.

 

A misfire in one cylinder may not be picked up by the UHEGO if the sensor is "seeing" a richer mixture fro the other 3.
However it will be enough to leak off boost pressure at full chat.

 

Cheers Rubjonny

Shame as you're just down the road from me.

I've been thinking this through. A real brain **** to be honest.
Yes it does run better on gas (until last night that is) but not perfectly. It still has the odd cough under load but it idles and picks up smoothly whereas on petrol I've got idling better but it won't pick up very well. I suspect the injectors as they're the only bit that's independant when swapping between the two fuels. I'll swap the FPR as I'm sure I have a spare one somewhere. I also suspect a boost leak somewhere and perhaps now it's dropped a coil pack.

Thanks again Toyo

Again that makes sense but I'm not sure as it doesn't misfire all the time, only at particular points and there certainly wasn't any issue on the rolling road (aprt from the low boost) when it was hitting 6500rpm

 

I thought I'd put this up to see what peoples thoughts are. There are certainly people that can decifer these a lot better than I can.

I'm going to have a brief play this evening if the weather holds out and see where that takes me. Easy stuff first. I'm going to change plugs and lean the map out a little at idle and at the low end if I can. Since I changed the faulty injector it's runnnga little rich at low revs and I wonder if that will help.

I'll swap a couple of boost pipes either side of the N75 as well.

Here's the rolling road output

 

Your boost looks very slow to respond, suggesting a major leak.
Have a look at the Additional maps -> Boost control and see what duty is set from 1000rpm to 7000rpm w/100% throttle.
Those engines, unless your wastegate actuator is week, tend to very easily achieve 1.6 bar from 3000rpm and then peter out to 0.9 -1 ish bar at the end.
In an application like yours, I would expect to achieve 260+lbft @4000rpm at Garage Streamline and watch the torque ramp off from 4800rpm pending the wastegate strength.

 

Cheers Toyo I was hoping you'd come along with your RR experience.

I (and Dave Walker) agreed it was a bit low and it's got a couple of flat spots as well. Not that it isn't a fine drive just that I know that it isn't right and on top of the misfire issue I'm wondering in the background if there's an issue with the set up somewhere, be it the vacuum or whatever. Hence this thread.

Tempted to do what I can, cross fingers sort the missfire issue and book in with you as I think you're a bit closer than Emerald. It certainly needs to go back on the Rolling Road after fitting some larger LPG injectors.

 

Think you need to make yourself a boost leak fitting. Very simple and you can use a schrader valve so a tyre inflator can be used. The thing is, it will drive ok and AFR's will be fine because the engine has been mapped with the leaks in place. If they are fixed, it will be completely out. Had this issue myself when engine was first built. I check regularly for leaks since then.

 

Any pictures / details. I like the sound of that.

Struggling to get time to look over it at the moment. Work and the darker evenings etc. Soon though

 

Not for your setup. But you basically get a bolt in schrader valve and fit it to a plastic plumbing end cap. This connects to the the inlet of your turbo or outlet pipe work after your turbo outlet. Pressurise the system with tyre inflated and listen for leaks. . You may need block of pcv valve to allow it to pressurise.

I did a different type previously but change to the type I described for ease of connection. you should get the idea. I had leaks everywhere at first. At most silicone joints and at injector seals.