Anyone tried the thermo housing kit from ebay?

Hi, i have a water leak on my 1992 vr6 coming from the thermo housing area.

I've seen the kit on ebay which will replace all the housing inc crack pipe. I contacted the seller who says its all topran stuff.

This is the kit..

220505500573

Any experinces with this kit?

Cheers
G

 

I fitted a pipe from same seller to the VR6 race car only last week and fit and quality was fine.

HTH,

Tim

 

ECP and GSF sell them.

Bought the same 'Topran' branded version for my old MK3 VR6.

 

I see. Ecp have a 50% plus extra 10% off at the moment. I'll price it up.

 

I bought the very same kit a few years ago for my mk2 vr6.

It was indeed TopRan and was made of a very study plastic.

The only thing I found was that the crack pipe did take a bit of effort to get it to slot into the ending side, otherwise the rest of the housing was absolutely fine.

I also bought some new plastic retainer clips for the sensors too at the same time but the kit itself never failed over 2 years

 

Here's my comment to another thread about the kit (see post #17)

http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?222292-110degree-coolant-with-slim-fan-update-Guage-still-not-showing-over-80deg&p=1969232&viewfull=1#post1969232

 

Hmmm. No crack pipe at ecp or gsf. Guess I'll have to order off ebay.

 

must be ok. He has sold 600 of them!

I brought mine from VAG and cost nearly 3 times as much

 

Yeah. Because you only like quality crack. Pipe

 

Bought this kit recently and leaked like a sieve when I re-filled with coolant. Had to go back to the old one, its a job I now need to do again when I can be bothered as I needed the car.

 

Oh dear!

 

We had same problem initially, but it was because the O ring had come off as we tried to get it in to the water pump!

Removed, re-fitted O ring and applied a liberally about of oil to the seal and water pump, after removing any corrosion, and it slipped straight in with no leaks

 

This is the problem I had with the above kit; I thought I had removed all the crud but the o-ring didn't seat properly and started leaking. But what in fact had happened is the O-ring wasn't in place properly.

Once I took my time to make sure every bit of corrosion and crud was free, from memory I found the best way to get the pipe back in without the O-ring coming out of the poisition was to gently rotate the pipe back and forth whilst slotting it in.

However I did note that the old crack pipe slotted far easier than the new one even though it never leaked.

 

Mine leaked like a sieve.


Fixed with some Dirko sealant. the faces of the parts aren't even flat! Cheap crap but it will do for now until I get a genuine kit.