Arb bushes, engine mounts - fit method

Discussion in 'Chassis' started by MJA, Mar 12, 2022.

  1. MJA

    MJA Paid Member Paid Member

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    Hi,
    I'd like to change all three engine mounts and install the ARB on my mk2. Ive seen a few thread guides on the rear engine mount with differing approaches.

    Can i avoid removing the subframe completely for the rear engine mount and use the ARB bush method - support subframe on jacks, drop down by 5 turns of the bolts holding in and remove wishbone bolt completely? I'll be working alone and think I will struggle to get the frame back in if I removed it completely.

    Also can anyone talk me through how to do the gearbox mount too?

    Cheers
     
  2. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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    Fitted the arb to my golf on my own, and swapped it to vr6, then back again, had to undo all 4 bolts on subframe, and drop it slightly on jack but that was to remove/fit bar completely.
    Should be able to change bushes just by loosening rear ones and maybe slacken front ones, bit of a faff, but doable. Had to use mole grips to squeeze bracket into position enough to get bolt in due to new bushes.
    Engine mount can do with jack under engine, perhaps remove bracket from engine too for clearance. Have got mk3 brackets off in scrappy with car on another and using a scissor jack to hold it from bulkhead, Dodgy by name...
     
  3. Savagesam

    Savagesam Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Basically exactly what dodgy said
     
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  4. MJA

    MJA Paid Member Paid Member

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    Brill cheers chaps so i don't need to do the jobs togehter and only need to do ARB when i lower the subframe by say 0.5cm-1cm (supported on jack).
     
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  5. stephen stanyer Forum Member

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    Hi I think you should be able to replace the arb bushes without dropping the sub frame I managed it by just undoing the clip bolt and lubricating the bushes and sliding them into place. If you remove the arb you do need to drop the subframe.
     
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  6. MJA

    MJA Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks that is good to know I can leave in situ and use lube as have the job to do on my mk3 too.
     
  7. MJA

    MJA Paid Member Paid Member

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    ah started on the mk3 and the captive nut on the ARB clip mostly just spins so I'll have to drop the frame. There are no short cuts on old cars!
     
  8. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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    My bushes came with new brackets, no bolts though :/
     
  9. MJA

    MJA Paid Member Paid Member

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    Got the old ARB out (mk3 today as in garage and wanted to work without the wind). The driver side clip with captive nut put up a fight (spinning) and needed cutting off in the end. Took a while with various methods. Had to Irwin the rear driver side subframe locator nut too. Will be able to install that powder coated ARB I got off you @dodgy :)

    I'd already bought the bolts and clips for the mk2 and it seems the mk3 is the same so will pinch them from that part pile for now.

    At least the mk2 doesn't have an ARB to remove and just needs one installing. I guess I will end up putting in upside down though as nothing is ever plain sailing.
     
  10. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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    Yep, installed mine upside down to start. At least had practice on fitting it.
     
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  11. stephen stanyer Forum Member

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    my car came with the arb installed upside down. must be a common issue
     
  12. MJA

    MJA Paid Member Paid Member

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    Even though I know it is an issue and I will research it I reckon I'll still get it wrong haha!

    Re mk3 ARBs for 5x100 cars my research on parts diagrams and on here says they are 20mm in diameter. The one that came off the car today is about that but the powdercoat one I have is 18.5-19mm. Is this just because powder coat is thinner? Spent a while looking at parts diagrams of various 5x100 cars - corrado, golf cab and estate i checked as well and it is always 20mm listed.
     
  13. stephen stanyer Forum Member

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    Don't worry too much about fitting it upside down when you offer it up it will be obvious at least it was on mine as whoever fitted it put the arb underneath the swinging arm instead of on top.
     
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    did the rear mount on mine without touching the subframe, its pretty easy. crack the 3 bolts bracket to mount while its on the floor plus the 2 underneath which hold the mount/lower bracket to subframe. jack up and remove wheel, remove all 3 top bolts to bracket. jack engine off mount, remove mount.

    you can get roll bar in just by droppign subframe a bit, just be aware how easy this method is depends on the quality of the rear roll bar clamp bushes. mine were high quality, basiclaly same as OE and went in easy. mate bought some lower quality ones which were very wrong, and there was much wailing and knashing of teeth trying to get the buggers in. what we had to do was use mole grips to gradually squeeze the clamp down till the bolt could be threaded in which was a bit fiddly to say the least
     
  15. MJA

    MJA Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks! I can see what you mean about the engine mount now and doesn't need to be done at the same time.

    I had a bit of fun with a rusted and spinning capitve nut on the ARB clamp so had to cut it off. I also found I only ordered 1x clamp and the other side is in need of replacement so the job is on hold...! Probably should have opened the box before starting the job.

    I loosened the front subframe bolts (the ones behind shock), supported on the jack. I then was able to let the frame pivot with jack adjustment to get the ARB out of the car and new powdercoated version back in but can't button it all back up until bloody arb clips arrive and assume at this stage I will need to move the bushes out of the way to secure the ears of the clips into the subframe.

    This is all on the mk3, mk2 still to do but should be a little easier has it doesn't have the ears/extension parts off the back of the subframe.

    One Q actually you'll probably know off the top of your head @rubjonny - mk3 anti roll bar diameteres on 5x100 cars: I've looked at the parts diagrams and it seems 20mm is the only size available for 5x100 cars - corrado, mk3 golf. However the powdercoated version I have as replacement is 18.4-18.9mm vs the corroded one that came off the car that is 19.5-19.8mm. I'm leaning towards the powder just being thinner than the stock coating rather than having a thinner bar unless there really is a thinner diameter 5x100 ARB. I've never had anything powdercoated before and more of a prep, prime and enamel coat at home type of chap!
     
  16. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    ok so, originally you got 1H0411309A which was 18mm, and 1H0411309B which was 20mm. its unclear if the 18mm was fitted to euro GTI/16v as ETKA only shows A for the syncro in data history but it could be the data for 2wd cars isnt complete. the 18mm one was dropped in 1995 then replaced with the 20mm version regardless
     
  17. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    actually scratch all of that, should just have checked Elsa first :lol:
    Clipboard01.jpg
     
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  18. MJA

    MJA Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks.. I think I will spend the evenings cleaning up and painting my old one!
     
  19. MJA

    MJA Paid Member Paid Member

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    Couldn't make it up but after cleaning up my mk3 ARB tonight (came up nice actually), I got the mk2 ARB down to do a similar job and measured it - 18mm FFS - meant to be 21.5mm. I think I will treat myself to H&R on the mk2 next month.

    20220314_210121.jpg
     
  20. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    must be a standard mk2 bar then. mk3 golf a good place to look for thicker 4 stud arb plus caddy, ibiza etc or just go full set aftermarket
     

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