And Mr. MK2 VR track set-up king never made it to a widley attended forum track day with his fancy diff.....
I'd also agree strongly with that. The side of track video from Mallory shows that i was catching Barny throughout our sessions -- his car is faster than mine and he had Colways + a fancy diff. I had slicks.. it made the ground up for me.
i had an *experienced* driver with me for a few laps round mallory he noted that the complete lack of wheelspin (even exiting the hairpin on full throttle) suggested that perhaps the money i *could* spend on a diff might better be spent on other mods. is that 400 per side or per set?
[/QUOTE] I'd also agree strongly with that. The side of track video from Mallory shows that i was catching Barny throughout our sessions -- his car is faster than mine and he had Colways + a fancy diff. I had slicks.. it made the ground up for me.[/QUOTE] Funny how you said "if you could make it look a bit harder to over take me round the outside of gerrards next time please" after our first session! Edited by: barny
I was on Eagles on my first session B... Want me to send you a copy of my video.. i'll let you use your own stopwatch... Edited by: Tubthumped
Anyway this is about tt arms and stuff Is it possible to make some kinda rose joint end for the arm to hub connection?? Edited by: barny
I'll have to make some of them up at work, plenty of rose joints and what nots to make em The no torque steer thing sounds promising, i can imagine how it'd help a hell of alot.. 400 a set or side ?
I'm still trying to work out how you can slam a car and different hubs will keep the wishbones 'where they need to be' ?? The only way i can see of doing that is like Touring cars do -- moving all the lower suspension pick-up points higher in the car....?
so the infamous wet weather tyre is beaten by an oversized,soft side wall semi slick tyre in the wet. Not disputing tha fact that later in the day you said you were faster than me and tbh many factors come into that equation - one simple one is that you could be a better driver than me ! The car is only as good as the nut behind the steering wheel !! I still maintain that trackdays are for fun, and as yet i still havnt timed myself around a track- others have for me - i believe that timind will make you push harder and take it too seriously. Having spent the weekend at Spa with three race cars, one now has a 2.5k blown-up engine and the other is distroyed in a crash - both the cause of trying too hard as they had in car lap timers. Only one made the race! Each to their own
Simple really - On the golf the subframe lowers in relation to the wheels, new hubs would jus lower the bottom ball joint so that the outer end of the wishbone lowers aswell, hence the wishbone stays in the correct place. Well thats how i see it workin anyway.
I don't time my cars on track. I only knew what i was doing after when my mates came up and told me... And the Quaiffe is gonna make the differance in the wet.. thats when mine looses traction. And, am i right in saying that if the wheels are not loosing traction then the diff is as good as usless? Anyway -- answer my question about these hibs and sus geometry!
Tub, you'll have to trust me on this as I don't have time to write a book on this. On McPherson strut suspension the angle of the wishbone denotes the aproximate roll centre location. If the wishbone points up at the ball joint end you have a very low roll centre which gives greatly increased body roll. So the idea of the modified hub is to keep everything where it is except the outter ball joint which is located lower. This brings the roll centre back up and allows lower ride height without the increased body roll.
agree with golden, and the wheel angles are improved dramatically with lower outer joints, so more rubber in contact with the road, so better for molecular adhesion RobT the balljoint is inboard of the disc so no worries there wider track which TT and the plus axle fellas like me and Phatty are using effectively lowers the engine height when you do the maths, so thats a bonus too thing is the loads on the hub carrier increase a lot when the balljoint is lowered, so you need a new beefier casting. Using a ball joint lowering spacer might be OK if you "lifed" these parts and replaced them regularly.
Thanks for info - one of problems with running big disks then - on my Wilwoods, the outer balljoint runs inside the disk carrier Cheers Rob
hmmmm i looked on my VR hubs, just remembered the 16v stuff is more inset, didn't want to scramble under the valver in my work gear
