B pillar worth adding to a bolt in mk2 cage?

Discussion in 'Track Prep & Tech' started by turbotommy, Apr 10, 2012.

  1. turbotommy Forum Member

    Just about to start fitting the SD cage to my mk2 golf,to me that means welding in the correct spreader plates etc.. but it will still be a " bolt-in" cage affair.
    As much as i'd like to tie/weld in the A & B pillar,its not going to be possible due to the welding sparks damaging the screen/dash etc..
    What is possible is welding some ties from the cage to the B pillars though,i plan to replace the rear side windows to Lexan so damage is not an issue there.
    Will this make a difference or not? I think it will make a small amount (although i think the A pillar would be better i know) If i do the cage will not be easily removed again but i think i can live with that for the time being.
    Worth the effott or not? I'm not sure hence the question [:$]
     
  2. danster Forum Addict

    Tam, I am getting a touch of deja vu here. ;)
     
  3. turbotommy Forum Member

    Yes that is true Danny :lol:
    Always worried me that the A pillar is a weakness and will be sorted on the "real" mk2 via the A to B sill (top secret).
    The "test car" now has an MOT so a quick cage fitting is now required before a up-coming ring trip and i thought is it worth tieing the B pillar to the seat belt bolting point (making removal of the cage harder)
    If this was for fitting to the real car,i'd not even bother asking the question but as its not...;)
    Is it worth it in YOUR humble opinion? (say till the MOT runs out)
     
  4. Mike_H Forum Addict

    My dad's old rally mini has a multi pointed cage that has tags welded to the body, and bolted up. Means you can take the bolts out if required by regs.

    Any extra fixings you add can only help to stiffen it up, especially if they're high up on the pillars. Windscreen removal isn't that big a deal. Pay a fitter in cash if you don't fancy it yourself?
     
  5. turbotommy Forum Member

    After more than a few tips from Danster,i'm doing it :-)
     
  6. samfish

    samfish Forum Member

    We had a cage in a road car and it was interesting to be a passenger and jam your fingers between the cage and shell - lots of twisting going on, even with a decent cage properly fitted.
    Definitely a good idea to bolt to upper seatbelt fixing I think.
     
  7. TonyB Paid Member Paid Member

    This is interesting a I'm looking and my cage at the moment. As I understand it having had a read through the blue book [:s] you can only mount the cage as per the approved points, your not allowed to fix the cage the the shell in any other positions.

    I see lots of cars out competing who have gussets welded in between A and B pillars with not problems in scrutineering and having looked at all the forces involved it's clear that the cage should be tied in to the chassis at the pillars but I don't want to do all that work to be cutting it all out again.

    Any one any views on this?
     
  8. jamesa Forum Junkie

    ^ ... Danny`s link in post 2 shows my Mk1 with the additional (total 6) bolted attachment points. The cage is a SD rear with a `hand made` front section so that it passes through the dashboard. Total number of bolted mounts being 12.

    The cage was fitted by an approved installer.

    I used to complete with this in the road classes in Wales / the Midlands / South West without any scruitineering issues at all. That being between 2001 & 2003, after that I came `up here` again with no issues when used between 2003 & 2005. Hopefully it`ll be the same when I eventually get back out !

    Can you not discuss with the MSA / local scrutineer ?
     

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