Im not getting anywhere with my tsr stuff and timing figures so thinking of gettin a new cam. What would be best for day to day. And that would get me thru emmisions. Whats best to go with a pack c solid lifter head on digi2 managment. Thanks
Agreed....just bite the bullet & get an expert to set up your 103 cam. There is nothing wrong with it. #1 set to TDC on compression Adjust the vernier so the cam lobes on cylinder #4 are pushing down on inlet/exhaust lifters by an equal amount (equal lift on overlap) Dial in enough ignition advance so the car is happy (& doesnt pink) Adjust the idle to suit Drive to a decent RR & get them to set it up. Easy....& much much cheaper than giving up & shelling out for another cam
i have a tsr 103. iv set it on eqal overlap, iv set it abit advanced, abit retarded, tried it with the standard cam pulley. my problom is that my hc it st around 3000ppm now, im gonna get banned from using the gas anyliser cause i blooked it up a few times and it cant do its hc residue test properly. it drives ok sometimes, depending how its set. and the worst bit is even with my co around 2.0% it cost me about 15 quid to get 12miles home from work. i cant find a decent rolling road locally and i cant afford to run to somerset like this, only to be told itll cost more for diagnostics or it cant be done. but it came to me just now that i was told the head and cam came off a 2litre, but could of been 2.1, i think it was a tsr silverstone engine but matey blew the bottom end so put it on a 1.8. so what may of been uprated to sort the fueling for a 2litre. that could be causing my 1.8 to overfuel and run abit doggy? done a compression test tonight and all 4 cylinders were between 149- 165 psi, so seems ok to me there. but did stink of feul when turning it over with the plugs out, could see the mist come out the cylinder. i put a message up in tsrs bord but havnt had any reply regarding the timing figures. so i was thinking if i get a cam with instructions and figures, and some customer service. might go kent or piper 270ish. thanks ppl
The cam wont cause high HC readings Stolen from the net Just a reminder of what causes different emissions readings and what to do about them-- A high HC reading is the result of poor combustion. The most typical cause is a poor ignition system. HC is nothing more than fuel that makes it out the tailpipe without being burned. So, your first step on the way to compliance will be a complete ignition tuneup: plugs, wires, caps and rotors. These parts are quite reasonable at any of the Big Three suppliers. The only exception to that might be the wires-- still "reasonable" but maybe just a little price shock. Resist the urge to spend on exotic multi-electrode plugs too; their only purpose is to provide extended life on new cars. The Bosch platinums will work just fine. Don't succumb to the temptation to get "bargain" wires either. The care and time required for wire replacement make installing good wires the best investment. Some folks have replaced aging ignition coils as part of the process too, while everything is out and accessible. The CO reading tells you about the fuel mixture. For the most part, HC and CO are unrelated, unless the mixture on a cylinder is lean enough to cause a misfire. Lean conditions result from vacuum leaks at hard/cracked/broken hoses, leaking gaskets and boots around MAF/MAS sensors, and partially clogged fuel injectors. Old vacuum and emissions hoses undoubtedly need replacing just due to age on many cars, so getting all new ones and installing them in one session is not a bad way to go. A poor oxygen sensor might cause a lean condition severe enough to create a misfire, but an engine with reasonable ignition will easily fire with that slightly lean mixture. So, your marching orders would read ignition tuneup as described above, a visual inspection of hoses for vacuum leaks, followed by a listen and spray, and finally a test with a good high-impedance DVM for output from the oxygen sensor. You should also be aware that excessive HC passing to the exhaust is death on a catalyst. They are only rated to react a certain mass of fuel, so extra fuel translates to extra heat, which leads to (hopefully just) a failed substrate, but too often also results in a fire. (!!) No matter-- if you have the high HC readings at the tailpipe, new catalysts are in your future if you want to have the car clean. Often, a carefully tuned 928 will pass without catalysts working, so start off with the basics and see how you do in pre-test mode at the smog check station. Then do the cats as your budget allows. You'll breathe easier. Many owners will tell you that it's a good idea to do a wholesale replacement of maintetanance items when you first get the car. It gives you a new baseline for everything, and will help you avoid a lot of the sniggly little problems that often plague aging cars no matter what the make. The hoses and belts and fluids all fall into this category. If you don't have a solid history of timing belt replacement, now's the time. Don't forget to change the brake fluid too.
So what's the engine now - 1.8 or 2.0? Has the static compression ratio been increased to support a lumpy cam? Is it your previous digi ECU, or did it come with the engine? It might be worth chucking a standard cam in it, to see if all the problems go away. Maybe there's another issue? EDIT: Is it running standard digi injectors and fuel pressure regulator?
ok, i replaced, dizzy and cap, rotor arm, plugs, tried bosh and ngk, 2 sets of leads. 2 genuine blue sensors. oil and filter. and a can of bg44k trough the tank. all vac hoses replaced with proper stuff. checked for leaks with a can of carb cleaner. no change till i sprayed the air filter. i was thinking its just to much overlap as i can get the co down low enough but the hc goes up. but then im thinking if it was running 2litre maybe its just too much feul being chucked in. i dont have cat or lambda so its not them. i do have a slight exhaust leak where my 4-2-1 joins the 2 parts but thats minor and would only effect the lamda wouldnt it? thanks for that though. neil
mike, its 1.8. i think the heads been skimmed abit but its got a metel gasket so not sure really on compression. ecu came with it but that was a standard new unit cause his origanal one got fried. but was on standard ecu before that, the guy i got it off only bought the engine. i think its out a mk1 so should of ran k-jet i think. it doesnt have the same injectors as my old pb, these are brown, i think the pbs were blue. i dont have a standard cam either as this is solid lifter and my old engine was hydrolic. if i was going to do that thou id rather get a decent cam in there. but if the cams not at fault id rather leave as is. apparently the head was ported by tsr about 10 years ago, had a new cam about 5years ago, this one, and had larger valves and seats fitted 4 years ago with short valve guides and stem seals. i have the receipt for the valves and bits. im thinking maybe a standrd fpr incase that was uprated. and im goona block up the big hole in my old airbox and take of this piperx cone that came with it. with the brand new afm
how lumpy should this realisticly be? what should i aim for idle to be, when setting up and normal? has a fluctuation of 1-200 rpm atm. but sounds like a rally cam,lol
So it seems to be running abit better exept bad misfire on startup from cold. And it seems to be missing or just really jerky up to 2000rpm. Then clears and gos. Does it cold and hot. If i retard ign the idle scew wont come out enough. Any ideas guys. Thanks
is the ignition set up right, it shouldnt be that lumpy! try following the Digi setup guide in the FAQ.
Not sure why you want to be retarding the ignition? The idle is definitely going to have a reasonable lumpiness to it.....moreso on an 1800 block than a 2L too Worth checking the part no. on the FPR as you say as it may well have been replaced for a Porsche 3.5bar or 4bar item somewhere down the line. Most likely when the head was on a 2L block. As a side note, your compression figures all seem a tad low to me....might indicate a lower than ideal C.R which would only add to your problems. My old 8v was in the 170-180psi range on a compression test for comparison
retarding my ign makes the jerking less obvious. I only retard it if i advance it and make it worst. Or should it be quite smooth just retarded from knock. I go through the same way as the guide says but 6 degrees the car dont like to rev. I take it theres no easy way to check or raise c,r. Im going to try another set of leads and see if that helps the jerk/mis.
It realistically needs as much ignition advance as it will take without pinking... Are you sure the head has been correctly shimmed for the cam too? It's not self adjusting like a Hyd head of course.... I think a large part of the problem is that digifant is not very tolerant of lumpy cams. The afm bumps about due to the rough idle from the cam and this in turn means the fuelling is thrown off which makes the idle even worse. It's a viscious circle....you then struggle to get an accurate take on ignition timing etc etc Try advancing the cam timing up a bit more to help with the low speed jerkiness...
Thats the thing, i can get the co down but not hc. Should i get ign set so no pinking first then advance cam then set co? I hope it brings my hc down and sorts this out. I got a few trips round the m25 ring this weekend so if u see a red mk2 4dr broken down it might be me.
I'd set ignition timing and co/idle together as per the guide then fiddle with the cam timing. You may still have low speed jerkiness but this is to be expected. Also check your throttle microswitches and the wiring to them isn't broken as this can also cause a poor idle..
Temperature is a factor in pinking too - what oil cooling are you running? Maybe you need a cooler grade of spark plug? I'm making an assumption that your jerkiness could be down to pinking.
it's hard to know what this misfire/jerkiness is without experiencing it... I put it down to the camminess of the motor being it's only an 1800. The rubbish idle is most likely the cam upsetting the afm and the isv trying to smooth it all out. It would even be worth unplugging the isv to try that IMO.
