Hi Guys, Just want to check, cars with out ABS you bleed the longest bleed nipple away from master cylinder working to the shortest. So on a MK2 golf GTi 91 you bleed; Driverside rear first then, passenger rear, passnger front then, driver front. Let me know if I have got wrong. Cheers
The order is correct, but you don't need to crawl under the car and clamp the bias valve - just set the back of the car on axle stands (which you'd be doing anyway before you crawled under the car ) and then jack the rear axle next to either of the rear hubs and it will move up as far as it can, then bleed the brakes.
Ah good tip I'll do in my PIT then so won't need to jack up car. Thanks for your help guys.... I better get my brakes sorted then car off to the M.O.T place in the next two weeks!! Been 3 years since my abf project has been off the road, so will be nice to see her back on the road with new engine and fresh paint!! Another MK2 saved from the crusher!!
Kinda related so hope you dont mind me asking this!? I changed my bias valve on the mk2 but cant remember where to set the spring/bolt now {its set about half way at the moment} Car is lowered about 80mm, she feels a tiny bit happy at the back on heavy breaking.
I think from memory and what Rubjonny said to me (correct me if I am wrong john) that the spring has to be just streched enough to feel tight but not loose at both ends.
Don't forget you do this at normal ride height and not with the car jacked up. If you are unlucky not to have a pit or ramps then it'll be a case of jacking car up and using Mooks advice
you always should clamp the bias valve, otherwise it wont be fully open and can trap air/stop full pressure gettign to the back. lifting the car wont do anything to the valve though it will help the air run up to the back so can help with troublesome rear calipers. when setting the bias valve i do it so the slack is just taken out of the spring, works for me. the factory way is done with pressure gauges hooked up to the back!
Not so - if the rear axle is jacked up to its highest point (i.e. the rear spring/shock is fully compressed), it is having the full effect on the spring, so is doing the same as clamping the valve.
think about it mook, jacking up the axle will simply put the weight of the car on the shocks again, its not going to open the valve any more than it would if the car was on the ground you method would work if you disconnect the shocks from the beam therefore allowing it to move up past the angle the beam sits at with the car on the ground. or, you could just clamp the valve
but assuming even if it does work, your way: jack up car insert axle stand remove wheel jack up beam bleed normal way: clamp bias valve bleed I know what I'll be doing in future
