Hello All, I have been having trouble with my mk2 1.6 Golf Driver. It is mounted with a 32/34 Weber. I recently stripped down the carb, changed all the parts with a refurb kit and put it back on the car with a new rubber mount. It now idles fine but has a massive flat spot/delay whenever you put your foot down. Does anyone know of anyone in (preferably South West) London who knows anything about carburettors? I just want to get the old girl back on the road for the summer. Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks,
Weber carbs, such as yours, have a square diaphram on the side, that is the acceleration pump. I suspect the output jet for this fuel path is blocked causing the stumble on a transient. If the fuel bowl is at the correct level, then operate the throttle and look down the venturi of the carb. You should see a strong jet of fuel being delivered. If not you have found your problem. An old trick I used back in the day, was to use the wire strand from a wire brush, to unblock the nozzle for these.
As Toyotec states, its probably the acceleration pump diaphragm. I had the same issue as yours, thread here: http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?187685-Weber-32-34-accelerator-pump&highlight= Good luck with it.
Hi Guys, I set up the float level as best I could using this thread: http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?191441-DMTL-Float-height-settings-needed-ASAP However if anyone has a better step by step guide I would really appreciate it. I was careful to put all the jets back in the right place but I didn't clean the ball valve in the acceleration chamber. Looks like I have to take it all apart once more. Oh joy. Thanks for your help.
Right, taken it off the car once more. But before I did that I checked that when I pulled the accelerator cable there was a squirt of petrol and there definitely was. So now I think the ball valve can't be blocked.... Anyone got any other ideas what might be doing it? Ticks over OK but as soon as you accelerate it stumbles. I'm thinking maybe float levels? Has anyone got an image of how the floats should look? I'm sitting in front of the carb now so any ideas very much appreciated. Thank you
Put on a Pierburg. They're much more reliable. Sorry....couldn't resist. In the Haynes, there's a section on measuring the output from the accelerator pump and a way of adjusting it if it's too much/not enough. Possibly there's something like that for the weber? I don't know if the quantity of fuel being delivered should be the same.
Hah! No, I'm not going back to the Pierburg. If the fuel pump was broken the car wouldn't run at all, yes? I think it may be back to the first question. Anyone know any Carburettor Specialists in London?
You will probably have a mechanical fuel pump on mounted on the front of your engine. If this does fail (mine did), I had no fuel delivery to my carb and wouldn't start at all. I did find this on my photobucket account, I guess the gap between the float & body is approx. 7mm as that's what I set mine for. Sorry, although I'm in outer London, I cant recommend a carb specialist.
Thanks Muppet, The picture is helpful. I've set it as best I can with a 7mm distance. Going to put it back onto the car tonight and see if it's any better. It has a non standard Ram Air filter. Can anyone recommend any sealant to attached the filter to the top plate? I noticed grit around the edge of the plate when I took it apart and want to get a good seal.
No worries, as suggested on your previous link, I used a 7mm drill bit. Do you need to seal the filter to the carb top plate? I have the standard air box and I believe theres a thin rubber seal in the airbox edge.
So I put it on again last night and the original problem of stalling when idling seems to have stopped. However I am still getting this huge flat spot when I accelerate. See the video below (you will need the sound on). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwFB9z4jKGo I am assuming the engine is being starved of fuel rather than oxygen because if I accelerate hard the engine stops completely. Any ideas? The floats levels are adjusted so that at 7mm the tab is just touching when the valve body of the valve has moved in but the ball has not.
Instead of looking for carb specialists, look instead for classic car restorers. They generally have good experience of carb restoration/fitment/adjustment. Just an idea.
Have you ruled out a vacuum leak? This is much more simple to rectify. Get an can of carb cleaner, with the engine idling squirt it at all of the vac pipes and joints, also around carb base gaskets and manifold gasket. If the revs increase at any point you have found a vacuum leak.
I'm now thinking it's the fuel pump. Any idea if this located in the engine bay or in the actual fuel tank? Many thanks,
If it's on the factory pump, front of engine, looks like this: http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares...26127025ATQ_act_shop.product_pID_16373311.htm Much cheaper than that from other places though. Actually, that seems to be a mk1 version, looks very similar though.
Anyone got a picture or a part number for the pump. Needs to be for a 1.6 mk2 1989 Golf Driver. Or even a link would be great. I want to try and get one before the weekend so I can fit it. Thanks
I've got an unneeded spare at home I bought from GSF years ago, but I couldn't guarantee getting it to you by Saturday, unless you want to gamble on Royal Mail, or live anywhere close to me? Item 10 on this page gives you the part number for your car. 026127025A As per post #9 though, I'm not convinced this is really the issue. Did you manage to inspect that accelerator pump inlet thingy? If you think about it, the immediate fuel required for acceleration compensation is in that cavity within the acc. pump mechanism. The fuel for the general increased usage of a wider throttle angle comes from the float bowl. The fuel for that comes from the vapour separator. Only if all of those sources are depleted, does the short-term performance of the fuel pump itself come into it. In other words brief accelerating should still be possible even if the fuel pump is performing very poorly, as the supply is more local to the carb. Could this even be an ignition fault? Anything really old and tatty in that department?
Thanks Pete, That's very helpful. I don't think it is the fuel pump now. I haven't had a chance to inspect anything since I last put the carb back on. I think it is fuel related. If the fuel pump is in the engine bay is there another part that could have failed in the petrol tank? The first thing I did was to replace all the spark plugs and leads. What is the the part that is mounted up next to the rocker cover and is in between the fuel pump and the carb. Is it the vapour separator? Could this be blocked?
What's the inline fuel filter like, on the inlet side of the fuel pump? Recent/clean/dirty/absent? Usually dangling off the airbox somewhere in front of the brake servo.