My vr6 engine gasket is weeping so wondering whether it would be easier just to change the gasket, chains, guides or swap the engine? Which would be easiest do people reckon based on someone who would be doing either job on a step by step dummy basis as not a mechanic at all!!!
Thats what I thought but keep being told by mechanics that the VR6 headgasket is a nightmare... read the vortex guide and just seems to be a case of taking your time and doing things in the right order. Everything is in place and working, just wasn't sure if its worth a gamble of swapping a lump only to have similar problems down the line
ah I see, I know you have to do everything in a certain order (which is where taking your time comes in as you say) Does your lump pull well? that is what would make my decision. If you think it has seen better days then might be worth going down that road
Doing the headgasket is no real problem at all. Get yourself a cam shaft locking tool and set the Top Dead Centre (TDC) on the crankshaft pulley and you'll be laughing. Just take your time and it'll be a breeze. http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=161839 Be sure to mark the chains where they are on the sprockets, before you take them off. It'll take you 4-5 hours to get all the bits off (manifolds, etc.) and get the head off. It is simple, get yourself a Bentley manual to be sure. Once the head is off get it skimmed at an engineers workshop. You have to undo the head bolts and do them up in a certain order. Good luck and go for it
sorry to hijack, whats the deal with 'skimming' a head - what does that exactly mean and why does it need doing?
Cheers - definately getting the cam locking tool!!! The engine pulls very well, but if I can do everything to get the engine 100% then i'll be happy plus i'll learn something from it. As for skimming the head, some people just seem to use fine grade paper to smooth the head before replacing the gasket to get a nice smooth surface rather than getting it skimmed. But take it there's more to it then that!?! Saw your thread Ezy D which inspired me to go for it! Any specific tools i'll need in advance apart from the cam locking plates?
Head gaskets far easier...... Heads can Warp. Skimming puts a flat surface back on the head also used to up CR
Like Raider says heads can warp. I speak from personal experience. Thought to myself as I took the head off for the first time 'no I won't get it skimmed', so changed head gasket and put the head straight back on. Then five hours later with everything back together I started the car and found water in the oil & oil in the water ...... even after flushing both coolant system and the engine oil properly. Hence I was really unhappy and angry to say the least. I think what was worse I wasted ~80 on once use VW OEM head bolts that went straight in the bin and 10 hours of assembly / disassembly on the engine. Most head problems with VR6 heads are down to warping and not so much the head gasket itself (although the water ways can corrode badly). If you see the pics in my thread you'll see the weeping which was down to a warped head. The engineers said is was quite a way out. I've had the head off 3 times now and although it is major surgery it is worth doing it. It is just the time spent undoing everything that is the issue, this is what costs the most at a garage not the gasket change itself. Also if you have a CGTi memebrship card you can get a VW OEM gasket from the dealers with discount for about ~30 (in Derby / Nottingham anyway). I'd suggest VW OEM head bolts or head bolts from AVS Car Parts (http://www.vwspares.co.uk/g3other.php), don't go for the GSF / ECP bolts as they'll go soft on you and you really don't want that .... I've been there and tried that Another item, when you drain the coolant and oil, strip the coolant system and check the thermostat housing (see here http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=131879) and check for signs of wear, perhaps change the o-rings. When you put the engine back together it is worth filling the engine with a cheap oil to flush the system as you will have coolant in the oil and vice versa. Then after running for the first few times put the propoer stuff in. I reckon that for about 10-12 hours work and ~120 (35 H-G, 25 Head Bolts, 55 head skim) you can have the engine sorted. Tools for the job: A good breaker bar (you'll need it to get the bolts out of the cam shaft cogs) A decent socket set A socket to place over the crank shaft pulley bolt (to line the engine up for TDC) Cam shaft alignment tool (click) Bentley Manual A really good torque wrench (an absolute must) .... 1/2" drive ! Then normal things .... jack, axle stands etc.
Nope classic weeping head-gasket at the typical place all VR6's have when they start going. Cheers Ezy D, that was one issue didn't want to go to all that effort to find its not 100% sorted. Great advice and heads up Where do you get a head skimmed by the way?
If the head is weeping oil. 100% also recommend skimming it. no more than 3mm as you dont want to raise the compression to much. Skimming will make it perfectly flat. Im rebuilding one at the moment with new performance valves. just had 1mm skimmed off. perfectly flat ready for fitting. If your cars running sweet, i'd recommend getting another cylinder head, de-coking it, rebuilding that with new stem seals, re-seat all the valves, skim it, then you have a recon head with 0 miles ready to rock and roll. Also the benefit of pretty much swopping it straight over without no hold up. I would also recommend the vr6 transporter metal headgasket when refitting.
