Ive had a look and luckily theres no more damage that i can see to the pistons. Dont know about the valves yet.
Have you pulled the head off yet? If not do you have a std cam kicking about that you could put in and try? I have one here if you need one to try
Yeah didnt know the cam had snapped till i took the head off and i dismantled it. Ive got 4 standard 8v cams, i dont even know how!
The cam being broken in half does not explain the substantially different compression readings between cylinders 1 and 2, as these would have been unaffected by the broken cam. Those readings for 1 and 2 are low anyway, this could be down to the compression tester reading low, however the difference between the two is a sign that something else is a miss. I would still guess you have valve sealing issues due to the replacement of the guides.
looking at the bearing surfaces of that cam i would check the middle bearing surface of the head to make sure it is ok as the cam looks very dark on that bearing wear it has broken.
Was wondering about this myself....were the cam caps on the right way round was a thought that jumped in to my head? The cam cap journals are line bored and as a result the cam caps are meant to be fitted the correct way round only.
Well, i just did the old torch through the ports with the lights off and 5 of the valves (dont ask which ones as i dont remember) are showing light through them. After looking into the costs of having the seats and valves re-cut to each other i have decided balls too it, just gonna use the G60 head ive got. Valves are the same size and the ports are slightly larger so just change the cam and although i know it wont give the gains of a fully ported head, at this point i simply dont care. I just want my golf back!
Also considering the actual gains of a ported head and probably only gaining 20 bhp, i dont think its worth it any more. Now where's that G60 gone....
Right so i built up the G60 head with my 8v PB cam and checked the valves were sealing before fitting it, got everything bolted up and doing a compression test just to make sure before i go too far with it, and im still getting low compression! Ive put a second battery onto the car via jump leads to make sure theres enough juice to make it turn at the right speed, ive got all the spark plugs out so it turns freely, the head was skimmed, the timing is right and the head bolts torques are correct and i did them in the right sequence. What am i doing wrong!? This isnt the first time ive changed a head before this fiasco, and ive not encountered this problem before. I wonder if my compression tester is actualy any good....
Did you have the throttle wide open during the tests? What were the results? It could be the hydro tappets have bled down a bit if the head has been sitting for a while. This results in the valves not opening fully till oil pressure has built up. It would be best to fire up the engine and run it for a bit. This will clear out any oil that has got into the cylinders and around the rings, then you will get a more accurate reading across the cylinders.
Get the engine started and warm up to nominal temperature. Make sure there are no leaks and there is oil pressure. Go for a drive. Keeping loading the engine and unloading, through a range of engine speeds. The engine should run smoothly on all 4 cylinders after this. Recheck your compression (Hot) ensuring the throttle is at WOT. Let us know your findings.
A bit off subject I know but does anyone know which wire is for the fuel level sender? My gauge on the dash isn't showing any fuel but I know there's at least 3/4 of a tank in there!
By "Alive" you mean all cylinders now have similar compression now, or the engine sounds like it is working on all 4?
I mean its running and setup using RJ's guide. Havnt road tested it yet as there no wheels or insurance on it, lus I've got a load of other things to do before it does go back on the road.
